psg Posted November 23, 2011 Author Share Posted November 23, 2011 Peter, you've seen my thread. Peter, can you post a link to your thread? Can't remember if I've seen your setup. The whole screen and frame were about $300 and took a half day of work. Wow, when I do a bigger screen, I definitely need to build my own instead of buying. Paid $500 for my 8' wide Elite 2.35:1 screen. As my son always says, "Dad, Go BIG or Go Home". LOL Tony's build thread is here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=876791 and here is his huge 14-foot wide cinescope screen: The pic is from his thread at post 1405 (gives you an idea of the length of the thread!): http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=20455043#post20455043 Thanks Tony, I appreciate the advice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Youthman Posted November 23, 2011 Moderators Share Posted November 23, 2011 Thx psg. I didn't realize tragusa3: was Tony. [] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted November 23, 2011 Author Share Posted November 23, 2011 Hmm, giving away personnal info here... Sorry! I am convincing myself to buy the projector first, get a big white sheet from Walmart and test out sizing and placement (too close to the ceiling? Too high? Need AT?) before I buy the screen... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyrc Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 Hmm, giving away personnal info here... Sorry! I am convincing myself to buy the projector first, get a big white sheet from Walmart and test out sizing and placement (too close to the ceiling? Too high? Need AT?) before I buy the screen... That's what I'm going to do when we get our new projector. That way the image will be no smaller than necessary and no larger than tolerable. If judder could be reduced to near zero, and the room is dark, a very large screen might be possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tragusa3 Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 My cover is blown. Operation "screw people with large screen advice" is a no go.... The sheet is the way to do it! I painted my entire screen wall white and lived with it like that for about 6 months before building the screen. No substitute for forming your own opinion. I will point out that the screen shot photo is not a great representation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted November 24, 2011 Author Share Posted November 24, 2011 Well it looks good to me, so if it gets better than that then great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted November 27, 2011 Author Share Posted November 27, 2011 To recap: #1: 106" 16:9 (92x52) -> 42.1 degrees horizontal viewing angle ($1200) -> leaves 100-inch diagonal 2.35:1 screen (92x39)#2: 135" diag screen never fully unrolled -> 52.2 degrees ($1550) -> leaves 128 inch diagonal 2.35:1 screen (118x50) -> leaves 102 inch diagonal 16:9 screen (89x50) -> plus side: zoom out wider for 2.35:1 movies, which is cool.#3: 120" 16:9 (105x59") acoustically transparent screen -> 47 degrees ($1600) -> leaves 114-inch diagonal 2.35:1 screen (105x45)If I leave the black bars at the top and bottom of the screen (i.e. don't shift the picture up or down), then I can save $800 on a projector without auto lens shift and zoom (Epson 8350). This makes option #3 cheaper than #2.I am thinking this might be a good compromise on size and screen placement, and let's me get a cheaper projector. The downsides are that the picture may not be as good on an AT screen than on the opaque screen. I will also be projecting black bars on the screen (without masking) on 2.35:1 content. Options #2 is the only one that wouldn't project balck bars on the screen as I would zoom out for cinemascope, but the projector would cost $750 more. Thoughts? Looks like I'll likely buy the projectot first (almost had time today). If I do that, then I have to keep the lens shift in play and go with the Panny AE4000 instead of the cheaper yet brighter Epson 8350. That also rules out 3D (hmmm; I might have liked the occasional 3D!). A king-size sheet is 108x102" and queen is 90x102, so even a King size is smaller than my biggest option. But I guess it will be enough to decide wat size I want. Do people just hang them? Or stretch them out some? I was think either: 1- staple the top to the rafters and weight down the bottom corners with small snad bags tied to the bottom corners. 2- staple (or sow) the top and bottom to 2"x4"x10' pieces of lumber and hang the top one to the rafters, stretching out the fabric with the weight of the lower 2x4". What color sheet do I want? White or grey? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyrc Posted November 27, 2011 Share Posted November 27, 2011 What color sheet do I want? White or grey? Probably white. I think grey (gray) came about to improve the image from yesterday's low contrast projectors, but I'm not sure. I would think that a white sheet would have less gain than a white screen .... or we all should save a buck and use sheets .... and a sheet is rather acoustically transparent, and if you have Audyssey, and set up with the screen pulled down ... heh heh heh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted November 27, 2011 Author Share Posted November 27, 2011 Ok, will go for white. Yeah, the sheet is just to try out sizes and placement beforeI commit to an expensive screen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Youthman Posted November 27, 2011 Moderators Share Posted November 27, 2011 Crazy thing is screens can be cheap if you have a little bit of DIY skills. The sheet is a great way to get a visual of what it might look like, but only better when the real thing is installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted November 28, 2011 Author Share Posted November 28, 2011 I would probably build one if it were fixed-frame, but I need an electric screen since it will drop in front of a TV and will partially block the door to the kids' TV room. So the screen can't be in-placeall the time and will only be lowered forthe weekend movie night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Youthman Posted November 28, 2011 Moderators Share Posted November 28, 2011 I forgot you needed an electric screen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted November 29, 2011 Author Share Posted November 29, 2011 Makes it more expensive too. I would have time to price the projector locally this week. Is there a recommended ceiling mount from monoprice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyrc Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 Is there a recommended ceiling mount from monoprice? Is there a universal ceiling mount kit & extension that is more or less earthquake safe... or is Panasonic correct in insisting that you use only their (expensive) mount with their projectors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted November 29, 2011 Author Share Posted November 29, 2011 No way I'm paying $425 for a mounting bracket! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Youthman Posted November 29, 2011 Moderators Share Posted November 29, 2011 Is there a universal ceiling mount kit & extension that is more or less earthquake safe... or is Panasonic correct in insisting that you use only their (expensive) mount with their projectors? I'm using a universal ceiling mount with mine and absolutely no problems with it holding up the Panasonic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
formica Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 Even though i have a much older Panny unit (same series)... I bought a generic "compact" model given head clearance issues... and all is sitting pretty 5yrs later... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyrc Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 I'm using a universal ceiling mount with mine and absolutely no problems with it holding up the Panasonic. Where did you buy it? Do you remember the make and model? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Youthman Posted November 29, 2011 Moderators Share Posted November 29, 2011 I believe I bought mine from Visual Apex where I purchased the projector from. Althought it is made of heavy duty steel and has no problems holding the panasonic, due to the design, even though I've tightened down the allen screws at the base of the pole, the projector is still able to be moved up and down, left and right by hand. I wish it was 100% tight and didn't budge at all but it isn't. Not sure I would recommend it although it would probably hold me hanging from it. My next one will be purchased from Monorprice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Youthman Posted November 29, 2011 Moderators Share Posted November 29, 2011 Looking at the above photo, it just reminded me something. My ceilings are 10'. When I originally mounted the 3000u, I wanted to use a short pole so the projector would be well above your head when standing on the 1' riser. Problem I found is the AE3000u needs to be almost level with the top part of your screen due to the lens shift restrictions. I had to use the extension pole to drop it down quite a bit. I believe you can have it higher, you will just have to keystone it which I did not want to do since it distorts the image. I wish I knew about monoprice back then because I paid $75 for my universal mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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