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OK, I know I need some bass to augment the six La Scalas I am using in the shop. I am now thinking a folded horn design is the best. What would Paul Klipsch have used? In looking at the specs on the tapped horn, vs the folded horn, vs ported, I am completely confused.

Look at the Cerwin Vega TS-42 as an exampe. It is 27-215Hz, 108db sens and 144 dB max SPL. I can buy it for $1500 new. I can buy a pair of 18's for $1200, and they together have similar output.

I can get a pair of Yamaha SW 218's for under $1300, and they each have the following specs: 30Hz -2KHz, 98dB sens, and max SPL of 132 dB each.

Lastly there is the Danley DTS-10 which would be $2700 delivered for a pair in kit form. The specs for them is 15-70Hz, 100dB sens, and max spl 127 dB.

I was just gonna get the DTS, but I am now second guessing that. I think perhaps the folded horn may fit the shop environment better.

Thoughts?

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I don't have much valuable input, but I can put in a word for dual DTS10's running with LaScalas. That's what I have in my theater. I will not be buying subs again. That's resolved. :D

Thank you for your feedback. I was ready to get what you got, but I wanted to know about this folded horn technology first. I may still, or I may go with larger Danley's since I am pressurizing about 70K cu ft. A lot of that would depend on what the Danley engineers say if and when I make a call to them.

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"Great site. Did you just run across this, or do you have first hand
experience with his designs?"

I would not waste my time with this stuff.

Titan28v.jpgTuba36_response.gif

Tuba24_28v.gif

The measurements speak for themselves (add 23dB correction factor to the Tuba 36 to compare with the others).

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I would not waste my time with this stuff.

The measurements speak for themselves (add 23dB correction factor to the Tuba 36 to compare with the others).

[bs]

Try hearing them first deployed correctly, then take a look at how much money you have left over in your wallet after the ordeal. Amplitude response by itself isn't the "end-all be-all."I like Danley too, but tapped horns aren't infallible either. The DTS-10's phase response in the 50-60Hz region is far from ideal. Hence transient response suffers bit, right where a majority of musical program energy lies BTY. The DTS-10 is great for movies and such perhaps, but for pure music, the TH-50 would serve you better.The BF product (or any other good DIY project) can put you online for lots less, if you happen to have the time and tools ...And 3000 watts RMS doesn't mean squat if can't suck it out of a wall without blowing a breaker.

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You know, your system is getting closer to a professional sound reenforcement deal than a more modest home system. Subs can be used for two purposes. They can be used to give you deep extension or they can be more for augmentation, like a pro sub, where they are not trying to go low but are trying to add volume. Too much extreme low bass will/can overpower your system and just make it a big unlistenable mess.

Maybe some of the prosound guys can jump in because I'm over my head at this point but I'm thinking a modest addition of extreme low bass would be enough for a quality sound. If you start stacking a bunch of big bass bins you might be able to shake the world but you also might change the balance of the sound a bit too far. I think I would want a more informed opinion than what I know (home audio).

Thanx, Russ

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.And 3000 watts RMS doesn't mean squat if can't suck it out of a wall without blowing a breaker.

I would think a dedicated line with a 25-30 amp breaker would suffice. Most times he wouldn't need near that much current.

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djk,

I am not competent reading acoustic graphs, but it looks like the THT stuff isn't really that great in the sub range.

Do you have reliable charts on the DST-10?

This thread has done little to give me confidence in any sub. [:S]

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