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ClaudeJ1

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The K43 will fit perfect, thats what's in a pair in the garage, I think it's just the cast frame on others that are a little wider.

If you like them you can build the second set, two on each side. [:P]

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It depends. On all of my LSI's and the MWM and MWM-S cabinets that I've run across, the steel frame K43's work fine, any and all cast basket K43 had to have some grinding (sides on LSI, top/bottom MWM). Make sure to grind the appropriate sides based on the screw pattern, see details somewhere on this Forum. It's not a tough procedure at all, just keep the metal shavings away.

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Thanks chances are I will do that as the fever has hold of me . [8-|]

The K43 will fit perfect, thats what's in a pair in the garage, I think it's just the cast frame on others that are a little wider.

If you like them you can build the second set, two on each side. Stick out tongue

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It depends. On all of my LSI's and the MWM and MWM-S cabinets that I've run across, the steel frame K43's work fine, any and all cast basket K43 had to have some grinding (sides on LSI, top/bottom MWM). Make sure to grind the appropriate sides based on the screw pattern, see details somewhere on this Forum. It's not a tough procedure at all, just keep the metal shavings away.

I didn't know they had cast fram K43's, I must have the stamped steal model.

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Dtel, that is a very good idea for that strip you put in there.

I did that because I couldn't find the t-nuts like Klipsch used, they had two little ears off to the side where you could put a screw on each side so it couldn't fall out the back.

I looked everywhere, one guy at this industrial tool company even looked in his Mac master catalog or whatever this 6" thick book is called and couldn't find anything close. He was surprised because he said they have everything, he said they were probably special ordered by Klipsch and bought in bulk.

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Dtel, that is a very good idea for that strip you put in there.

I did that because I couldn't find the t-nuts like Klipsch used, they had two little ears off to the side where you could put a screw on each side so it couldn't fall out the back.

I looked everywhere, one guy at this industrial tool company even looked in his Mac master catalog or whatever this 6" thick book is called and couldn't find anything close. He was surprised because he said they have everything, he said they were probably special ordered by Klipsch and bought in bulk.

that and the original recipe for crepes suzette are a closely guarded secret.

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Dtel, that is a very good idea for that strip you put in there.

I did that because I couldn't find the t-nuts like Klipsch used, they had two little ears off to the side where you could put a screw on each side so it couldn't fall out the back.

I looked everywhere, one guy at this industrial tool company even looked in his Mac master catalog or whatever this 6" thick book is called and couldn't find anything close. He was surprised because he said they have everything, he said they were probably special ordered by Klipsch and bought in bulk.

Hi Dtel

Anything that looks like the fastener that you couldn't find on this web page?

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/anchornuts.php

AN366Fa.jpg OR NA5A.jpg

Both of these are fine thread and have nyloc inserts,the nylon can be removed if you wanted. They are available in 10/32 or 1/4 - 28 or a few other sizes

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I agree, properly done tractrix straights will be better than folded. JC's setup just blows me away. A pair of Klipsch 684 subs, 2 Straight bass horns, and MCM-4 Grand HF horns (402 & 510). That'll do ya just fine.

Well, my straight midbass horns aren't tractrix, they are CD, though. they got to 120 hz. so I"m only using the corner horns from 30-120 Hz. so I don't need a tight corner seal.

my audyssey does wonders for 2-channel mode also.

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Looking awesome....keep the pics coming. I must say...that woofer chamber looks deeper than I remember.

They are about a foot from the front in I haven't put the frame in for the woofer cover so it appears to be deeper than it is also nothing is glued or screwed yet I have to go get another piece of red oak ply and that will finish this one and then I will assemble it and then put some finish on them.http://community.klipsch.com/forums/storage/19/1479384/MWM%20drawing%20dimensioned%20plus.jpg
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That image is funny. We have all had a chance to hack on that image haven't we.

OK....so your internal woofer chamber depth will be about ~11.25 inches?

jc

Hi JWC

I hacked your hack as I was looking at 3 or more places where the dimensions were and my weak mind doesn't compile this very well. I asked for some help and dtel and others offered some clarity to my clouded view. More info starting at

http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/t/108672.aspx?PageIndex=5

sometime I want to do a view from the front and side

maybe next winter when its cold again

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Ok...yes i remember that....I guess I just didn't see the last image from the past.

This is good work.

You know...it was some time after that thread that I drew up an "MWM" like bass bin with the same external dimentions....but the horn was 8th space and not 1/2 space. The Fc was something like 28Hz instead of 40Hz. Didn't have the Balz to built it though. Wasn't a hard build design really.

BTW.....from a calculation standpoint...the classic MWM with K33's/Crites...the drivers will annul at like 48Hz with the current size woofer chamber.

jc

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If you buy a K43 from Klipsch today, you'll get a cast basket. They did use them 'back in the day' however. Some of my KSM15II's have a routed rabbet in the motor board large enough to accept the cast basket, others will only take the steel frame. For that reason I swap out where I can and retain a couple steel framed K43 for use as replacements where it's most difficult to fit a cast basket.

M

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