Light sanding/re-oil of Heresy II cabs

[raferx]

Hi all,

I finally was able to pick up a gorgeous pair of HWO Heresy IIs and am enjoying then immensely.

The units are in great shape, with only some minor scuffs on the base, tops and sides. Hard to really notice unless you look for them, but the wood def could use some TLC.

I was going to use a block hand-sander with 320 and then 600-grit sandpaper to just touch them up.

My question is what to use to finish them? I'd prefer to keep the wood looking as close to original as possible.

Watco?

Is my technique to clean up these cabs sound?

Thanks in advance!

–Rafe

[Malcolm]

Put some lemon oil on them first. You may decide not to do anything.

[Daddy Dee]

If you do any sanding, be very careful. The veneer is REALLY thin and would be easy to sand through. I wouldn't use anything but the finest sand paper if touch up is needed. It could be a good idea to start out with some of the really fine steel wool for woodworking.

I've always been pleased using Old Eglish oil.

[mustang guy]

I like Old English too.

[raferx]

OK, I'll take care, hence the 320/600 sandpaper. Thanks for the feedback. I'm going to work on the bottom of the cabs first and make sure it's all good.

Cheers

[Invidiosulus]

I would not start with the steel wool as it is easy to catch on the grain if it is dry and a little rough.

Really fine sandpaper with a gentle touch should work fine.

[WMcD]

One thing that gives me the willies is the suggestion to use steel wool. It was used by Homer Formby decades ago for that line of products. But it sheds little steel sludge. It is not something you want around the magnets of a speaker.

I have used Scotchbrite. The 1/16th inch thin pads which can be found at HD or the grocery. I can't find a link. If I had to do it again I'd use a similar product from Walgreens used by our lady friends to remove make-up or generally to exfoliate.

I put on a generous squirt of Old English type and use the aforementioned scrubber gently to take off any grung or smoke film. Then wipe with soft cloth (old tee shirt piece). You'll notice some brown residue on the cloth which is the soil or the first cell of the veneer.

I always tell this. Old English is just very thin mineral oil (light motor oil) with lemon perfume. It will give a wonderful contrast and low sheen. Then it will evaporate in a few months. So do it again.

If you want to apply a protective finish, I suggest the many wipe on varnishes available.

If there is a subborn little blemish which requires some attention, I have had good luck with 600 wet or dry with the Old English as a fluid. I know everyone says the veneer is thin. Yet it is difficult to mine out much of anything with 600 in an oil bath

WMcD

[JBryan]

In a well-ventilated space, sand VERY lightly, with the grain - only putting pressure around the nicks you want to smooth out. You don't need to bother with the 600 grit. Wipe down with mineral spirits to completely clean and dissolve residue (wear gloves). When dry, wipe again with tack cloth. Apply a liberal amount of boiled linseed oil to a lint-free cloth and apply a thin coat to the cabinet - again, with the grain. Wait 20-45 minutes and wipe off excess with a dry, lint-free cloth. If cabinet still looks dry, re-apply BLO and repeat. Have fun!

[Groomlakearea51]

Excellent advice and suggestions from all.

After I refinish a pair of speakers with veneer and whatever stain desired, I generally use Watco slightly diluted with min spirits for the initial oiling (it's got the BLO in it). After several coats and rub downs, it's Old English for the monthly wipe off. Just an example of what I use.

[H]

[Panacea Engineering]

I totally agree with Groom on the Watco....! I just finished an amp base made out of Kelobra (very porus wood) and I think it turned out OK. Of course this was RAW wood, sanded down with 320 grit and it absorbed a lot of oil. That is the critical part, getting the proper penetration. It is six passes of Watco with the last three wet sanding with 600 grit wet/dry paper. Probably 20 to 30 minutes between coates. There are a lot of different methods of application, this is what works for me on raw wood. Follow the directions and you will achieve a great finish. Be sure to get the original finish off and be sure that the surface is perfectly clean before you start with the Watco. Whatever it takes to cut the original finish is key and will depend on what has been applied to the surface of the veneer/wood.