Jmodified Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 My question is what the ohm load is on the low side of the crossover with the jumpers removed. Should the woofers be wired in parallel or series? A inductor calculator says the inductor should be 1.6 for an 8 ohm load, which is what is stock. Does that mean the klf-20 woofers are 4ohm x 2 equaling an 8 ohm load in parallel? If so then what is the impedance of the mid high for the upper mid/ high? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 This schematic may help in a general way. BTW, what are you up to? Smile. I don't have any specs on the woofers or wiring. I'd suggest you measure the resistance of the voice coils with an ohm meter. The nominal impedance of 8 ohms seems to always be "in name only". But if the woofers (individually) test out with a voice coil of well below 8 ohms (like maybe 4 ohms), I'd think they are meant to be wired in series to give you 8 ohms. OTOH, if they test out somewhat over 8 ohms (like 16 ohms) I'd think they are meant to be wired in parallel to give 8 ohms. Let us know. WMcD KLF-20 Crossover.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pzannucci Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 The KLF-20 woofers are 8ohm woofers though depending on the crossover and wired in parallel, mine in a ~6 cf enclosure measure in the measure in the mid-upper 3 ohm range. That is with a solid core inductor used in a 12db network. They do like current and control if you are making a bigger enclosure. You would be surprised what a larger enclosure will do tuned to between 31-34hz with those 10" woofers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pzannucci Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 BTW, don't forget the slope and Q of the crossover. The 1.6/1.7 is for 750-800hz 6db. When you go with a 12db your slope increases and your driver ohms half (kind of)... The KLF-20 has a 12db slope (once again kind of) in it's crossover topography. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmodified Posted October 11, 2011 Author Share Posted October 11, 2011 I recently biamped, i was checking to see what the ohm load would be for the woofer section. I have 2 250wpc class d audio amps i built. I figured if the mid high section and the low section seperated were 16 ohms each, that would essentially cut my amplifier power in half, if both togethor with jumpers connected it would see an 8 ohm load. Trying to figure out how to get the best amplifier power. I bridged my amps this morning and am running monoblocks at 500 wpc and everything sounds much better than bi-amped. Bass is a lot better and they just seem smoother. I have external crossovers that i built with 12ga air core inductors, crites autoformers andd clarity cap mr's that i just installed on the mids. Clarity cap esa's on the tweeter section until i can purchase the mr's on the tweeter circuit. I have been messing with active bi-amping with a rane mojo mx22 with the inductors removed from the woofer section and leaving the caps and autoformer for the mid-high section. Rane's signal to noise is horrible, bass was excellent but the mid highs didnt blend in right, 24db slope on the rane then the croccover for the mid high. Just didnt sound exactly right after listening for a while. Took out the rane and just passively bi-amped from my Marantz av8003 to the class d's. Started thinking about the impedance of each section, essentially if the woofer section was 16 ohms it would be cutting my amp power in half, same with the mid-high section. Decided to bridge and tie the woofer section to the mid-high section. Tons of power and very smooth. Bi-amping is ok, however i belive it takes alot of tuning and possibly an eq to achieve a perfect setup. Too much electronics in the chain. Less is more i believe after experimenting for a while. Really need to triamp with a marchand x-over and get rid of the whole passive i believe to do it right. But thats another 1500 bucks and cant justify it. Thanks for the replys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pzannucci Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 When you build a crossover, the two 8ohm sections strapped together do not equal a 4ohm load. Each crossover section (low, mid, and high) complement each other and roll the driver in and out, thus not having a combined parallel impedance. The crossovers are tuned to give you the appropriate blend between the drivers via slope, electrical, phase characteristics along with modifying the gain. You would need to play for quite a while with the electronic crossover to match the internal crossovers though it can be done if you have all the settings required. If you are happy with your crossover for the bass and the bass blends well with the mids, why don't you just leave the stock mid/tweeter crossover or possibly just update the caps on it? Maybe the first question, though last is : what don't you like about the original sound that needs to be fixed? There is usually a much simpiler answer than all the changes you are doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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