Cornscala Build... A, B, C, or D?

[HPower]

I have recently been thinking about trying a Cornscala build and after looking at Bob's 4 different configurations, I am not sure

which design would be the best route, that would deliver the best performance.

Going through the old Cornscala posts, I see a ton of variants with only a couple builds using the "D" (2way) layout.

I would like to stick with one of Bob's designs so that I can utillize all his components, and at least motherboards, as well as all the leg work he has done.

Hoping some of you Cornscala veterans can help me with your experience and help get me going.

[jhoak]

I built a very close derivative of the “style A” Cornscalas. The only real differences between Bob’s design and mine are that I used a pair of Eminence APT-150 tweeters rather than his CT125 tweeters and my crossovers are a little bit different. The APT-150 tweeters use the exact same driver that Bob's CT125s have but incorporate a much larger horn. Because of some dimensional changes I made and the much larger tweeter horn I had to rethink the port design. Rather than ports across the bottom I ended up with triangular ports at the bottom corners of the cabinets. Different but equalivant.

Here’s a link to my build:

http://community.klipsch.com/forums/p/148721/1534672.aspx#1534672

I am very VERY pleased with the outcome of my project. They get daily play here and sound wonderful. I have had a number of forum members here to audition them and each has been quite impressed with the sound that they produce. So much that one left my house, went home, and immediately began his own Cornscala build. To me that is high praise indeed.

Here’s the second thread about them after I finished the veneer work, oiled them, and built grills:

http://community.klipsch.com/forums/p/150455/1558783.aspx#1558783

I STRONGLY encourage anyone who is thinking about it to build Cornscalas. They can be built at a relatively low cost if you have the tools and the skills. Even though you’ll spend ~$1500 to ~$1600 “out the door” you’ll NEVER find a pair of speakers at that price point that will even come close sound wise.

Go for it!!!

[justinsweber]

Having built 3 pairs of cornscala's and 1 pair of split La

Scala's I would strong recommend the Type C. The Tweeter lens and driver are

the same as I have used... fantastic ability, in my opinion a better choice

than the tweeter in type A and type B. I still use CS125 in my Hersey clones

and an earlier version of the Type A, but the selenium just kicks ***. The M2380 is a low buck clone of the famous

JBL horn… it’s a CD horn… sounds great everywhere… less of one sweet spot. The

Big Selenium D405 is a great choice… might consider use of Faital HF200 to mate

to the M2380 instead, though extra cash. The 3 way is my preferred sound. I

have a crazy setup allowing 2way/3way on the fly and prefer the 3way. Bob makes

building some of the best speakers around as easy as screw and glue… 1^st

rate solution if you cant afford a klipsch product, or like building yourself.

You might consider additional bracing of the cabs, more than Klipsch or Bob has

done… I found it was additive.

[Mike Dubay]

I have built 2 version of split Conscalas. I would also recommend the Type C if constrained to Crites designs. I found moving from the 1 inch DX250 to a 2 inch driver was well work the extra money, although the DX-250 do sound nice. Nothing beats a nice pair of wood horns.

http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/p/152904/1599576.aspx#1599576

[HPower]

Hey guys,

Thanks very much for the suggestions, it is reassuring to get some guidance from all 3 of you guys!

Right now I am leaning toward the Style C... I like the looks of the flush mount drivers as well as the larger tweeter.
Bob echoes what you mentioned Justin, he also feels the Selenium D220TI Drivers with HM 11-25 Horns should offer a larger sweet spot.

With this being my first attempt at building a speaker, I think I will try to stick as close as I can to Bob's design.
If it turns out I find this as rewarding as you guys have, maybe I will look at some mods latter after I get a little more confident with how things work.

With this in mind, after wading through a million old Cornscalla posts, the statement Justin made that I remember the most is;
"For anyone building a cornscala, I strongly suggest you design some way of replacing the front baffle...
allowing you to upgrade as you see fit without significant changes."

[robi]

Good morning (in Italy...),

do you think the combo Eliptrac 400 mid horn + Circletrac HF (that you built also...) is better than Cornscala Type C or not???

Thanks in advance for your answer and for any other contribution !!!!!!

Roberto.

[justinsweber]

I have built the type C and do have the Eliptrac 400 mid horn + Circletrac HF they are different animals and to some degree different price points. The Type C with the M2380 horn and the Selenium HM 11-25 Horn is an amazing combo. When I used my M2380 I used it with the Fatial HF200 and thought it amazing, not with the D405. I’m not sure which of the 2 Selenium D405 vs Fatial HF200 Id go with. Im cheap, and I know both work. The Fatial would let you two with the idea of trying the M2380/Fatial combo as a two-way. I preferred it as a 3 way. I own and regularly use 3 different versions of the Cornscala. The one with the most detail is the most expensive... ALK crossovers and Eliptrac 400 mid horn + Circletrac HF is flawless. My K401/K55 Selenium HM 11-25 Horn/Selenium D220ti is my wifes favorite... probably because I built it and it has a more romantic sound... even if not the most accurate. The one I suggest for those who are new to speaker building is going with Bobs Crites cut, Paste and Listen formulas... I started there and would be happy to go back. Bob's setups are compelling... He can send you parts, plans or whole speakers. The Type C is his Best combo in my opinion... I have not heard the Type D, but in a 3 way... don’t see anything wrong with the M2380... This is a bullet proof combo. Now if you’re ready for more... Dave Harris is the guy to go for upgrade horns... To say he knows his sh*t is an understatement. I own Eliptrac 400 mid horn + Circletrac HF and love it. It allows me to go from 2way to three way… His horns are just that good. I do plan to replace my K401 to a Eliptrac 400 with the adapter so I can run my K55.

[justinsweber]

As an aside. Being able to change Motor boards allows horns to be changed out. I have a spare set of motor baords that were origonally built for this purpose... The 15 hole cut and the ports... the rest is blank. I had 1 version with the motor board screwed in from the sides and then from the front. Paint the motor board black and call it a day. In several years some new incredible horn will strike your fancy... pull your existing motor board out and place the new one in... The sell the old motor baord and horns to a friend. Keep your drivers... change your horns :-).

[robi]

I've already built my Cornscalas (with the old Bob Crites stuff: PH800 horns, CT125 tweeter, etc...).

Here my building 3d:

http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/p/125302/1267426.aspx#1267426

Now a friend would build another couple.

So, if I well understud, the best (regardeless to cost) is the Eliptrac 400 + Circletrac HF combo.

The best value for money combo is the Bob Crites Type C.

I well understud???

Sorry, but I can't speak american. ;-)

[justinsweber]

Short answer is Yes.

[bigrfish]

I traded the Cigar Bum a box of cigars for my cabinets, which were set up for Al K Wooden Tractric-flare mid-horns. Didn't have any of those at the time, ands wqas on a severe budget, so I enlarged the cutouts and installed some big-throated (mouth 11X17 if I remember correctly) 1" midhorns I found on e-bay with Selenium phenolic drivers(work similarly to a K-55). Later on down the road, I acquired a pair of the wood tractric-flare midrange horns myself, along with some K-55 drivers, but can't use them in the Cornscalas without doing some extensive cobbling and retrofitting, which is a lot of trouble. At least mine are of the split-bin design, so whatever I do with the HF section will not affect the bass bin. This is why you are getting these cautions about making the HF motorboard changeable/replacable.

In the best world possible, knowing what I know now, if I were going to build a pair, I would go for the double bass-bin design perfected by the good Dr. Cullison from Georgia, along with the elliptical and circular wooden horns, and whatever drivers suited my fancy at the moment, along with a high end Ashly active electronic crossover/speaker management unit. If passives are your deal, look at Al K engineering. Most all the info you need for any alternative is buried in these forums.

Anything you build is going to sound good, but beware...once you start this, you will be sucked into the vortex...

God Bless, Chuck