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how to confirm polarity issues on KLF20s?


ousig

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when running the audio setup on my Denon it stated that the fronts had a polarity issue. Years back I did take all of the drivers out to fix the back panel vibrations and add some foam. I thought I marked the + and - but possibly I missed something. They sound great to me but not as good to the mic on my Denon.

I know you can use a AA battery to confirm the woofers + and - inputs but how about the horns? If I remember correctly they were not marked + or - on the back or if they were I didnt notice

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pretty sure I would have noticed the spot of paint (red or black) if there was one but that was years ago when I was in there. I will check them out this weekend

is there any real benefit to replace the internal wiring with some newer stuff? if I remember correctly it looked like small 18 guage stuff

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"is there any real benefit to replace the internal wiring with some newer
stuff? "

No.

I solder them instead.

BEC likes me suggesting this as most people can't solder and ruin the diaphragms (at which point they buy new ones from him) .

Try cleaning the terminals and squeezing them a bit tighter before pushing them back on.

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I think something like this was submitted to the forum years ago.

Someone suggested the software may have been detecting the time offset of horns. It was either myself or maybe I agreed.

Looking around tonight I found

http://ask.audyssey.com/entries/215531-phase-error

If reflections can cause as false report, I'd think that horn distance offsets can too.

One problem is that we don't know how the software goes about making the analysis. Is it looking at different frequency bands where a woofer and mid and tweeter?

Reading the article, it seems that the report does not necessarily indicate a hardware issue of miswiring.

WMcD

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