CECAA850 Posted September 1, 2014 Author Share Posted September 1, 2014 Going to build a couple of F20's What system will they go in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechnut Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 (edited) Carl, Would you recommend MDF over Ply? I do like the idea of no end grains to cover up. Also, I have a Kreg Jig. Would you recommend doing the pocket hole method again? From my other projects, they make some pretty serious joints. How did you clean up the squeeze out of the PL? Sand it off? Edited December 27, 2014 by Beechnut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted December 27, 2014 Author Share Posted December 27, 2014 Before I answer your questions, what finish will you be using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechnut Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 I'm on the fence of just using a semi-gloss black and urethane finish, or something industrial like duratex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted December 28, 2014 Author Share Posted December 28, 2014 (edited) The only reasons to use pocket screws is to avoid exposed screws and making blind joints where you can't get to the back side. When I built this one, I was learning the Kreg Jig and wanted to see if I could build a box with no exposed screws. I've learned something different on each and every build. First, If you're building to tight tolerances, I wouldn't use the Kreg. No matter how many different ways I've tried it, it's extremely hard to put your board exactly where you want it. The design of the system pulls your wood off line slightly as you tighten it, even with drilling pilot holes. The wet glue acts as a lubricant and helps the wood slide off line as you tighten it. The most accurate method is to draw your sub out, clamp the top and bottom plates together and drill both plates at once. It's easy to pull the screws and bondo the holes. I just started my next build and that's the method I'm using. If you're concerned about end grain showing through, you can use MDF or bondo and sand the end grains. By far the easiest way I've found to clean up PL is to wait exactly one hour after application and scrape it off with a putty knife. Any sooner and it's messy along with not having swollen completely. If you wait much longer, it cures hard as a rock and is a real PITA to get off. It sands at a different rate as your stock so be careful as it's much harder than MDF or birch. Lastly (even though you didn't ask) don't pre cut your panels. Draw everything out and measure every panel as you go. Edited December 28, 2014 by CECAA850 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechnut Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 Great tip on the PL. And I'll take the advise on NOT pre-cutting the panels. Did you end up doing bracing? Lilmike says he wasn't to worried about it since it was a house speaker (not a PA system) and he used 13 ply plywood. I'd think MDF would more rigid and structurally sound...and less likely to need bracing than ply. Am I off base on that? Don't really desire any wood grain look, (like staining the ply) So I guess material doesn't matter on finish if I'm just going to bondo everything for a smooth foundation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tromprof Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 (edited) IMO 3/4 inch plywood will not need bracing in this build. This is one heavy box. I used pocket screws in my two builds and remember fondly the pieces sliding around. As much as I love pocket screws for their ease, it requires extra hands when combined with PL. Edited December 29, 2014 by tromprof Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted December 29, 2014 Author Share Posted December 29, 2014 I've braced and not braced. The F-20 that didn't get braced is vibration free but that was built in an afternoon and we were under a time crunch. I'd brace it as you can't go back once it's built. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HPower Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 With my Cornscala build from a couple of years ago, I used pocket screws and dry fit everything with the screws first. Once I was happy with the way things were going together, I dis-assemble and then re-assembled using PL. I didn't find enough slipping to matter. Mind you I built all the exterior joints "proud" by about 1 mm and then trimmed with the router after and sanded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thaddeus Smith Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 I believe lil' mike acknowledged later on in his original build thread that bracing should be used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted December 29, 2014 Author Share Posted December 29, 2014 Mind you I built all the exterior joints "proud" by about 1 mm and then trimmed with the router after and sanded. That's the biggest time saving point (that I forgot to mention) yet. I run about 1/16" over on my top and bottom panels. The mouth trimming can be handled a couple different ways but it's not too bad. You wouldn't have that issue with a box like a Cornwall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted December 29, 2014 Author Share Posted December 29, 2014 I believe lil' mike acknowledged later on in his original build thread that bracing should be used. I recall reading that as well even though several were built sans bracing and no issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbox Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 I finished my extra wide F20. I decided to go with 24 inches, in total is 25.5 inches with the sides on. This thing is pretty amazing. Its not painted or finished yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted January 1, 2015 Author Share Posted January 1, 2015 I finished my extra wide F20. I decided to go with 24 inches, in total is 25.5 inches with the sides on. This thing is pretty amazing. Its not painted or finished yet. No pictures.....It didn't happen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 No pictures.....It didn't happen That's what I tried to tell the Judge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HPower Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeJ1 Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 I finished my extra wide F20. I decided to go with 24 inches, in total is 25.5 inches with the sides on. This thing is pretty amazing. Its not painted or finished yet. Amazing sound? I can't imagine you are impressed with the size, since you own an 1802. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbox Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 everything is relative, but yes its a great sub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 On 8/30/2014 at 7:07 PM, Turbox said: I just pulled the trigger on 2 woofers for my F20's. 2 Dayton audio RSS390HF-4 Bump for later reference. http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss390hf-4-15-reference-hf-subwoofer-4-ohm--295-468 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 On 8/27/2014 at 8:47 PM, mustang guy said: I see where the lilmike thread is recomending the Stereo Integrity HT-15. $145. Here are the specs: 22.5mm Xmax (one-way linear) 43mm Xmech (one-way) 8" diameter Nomex spider Sewn on leads Large speaker terminals Cast basket 2.5" diameter voice coil Spiral cut CZA alloy former Dual 4 Ohm 600 watts RMS power handling High roll rubber surround Inner magnet diameter shorting ring Blank dust cap 15" D2 Re: 3.7 Ohms Fs: 18.5 Hz Qes: 0.37 Qms: 6.3 Qts: 0.35 Le: 3.5 mH Sd: 80445 mm^2 Vas: 220 l BL: 18.9 Mms: 309 g Cms: 239 Sensitivity (1W/1M): 87.4 dB Xmax: 22.5mm Recommended enclosures: 15" Sealed = 3 ft^3 Ported = 5 ft^3 tuned to 22 Hz Cutout: 14.0" OD: 15.5" Mounting depth: 8" Mounting flange to top of surround: 1.5" Displacement: 0.19 ft^3 Adding for research. Apparently these can't be found or I am not looking in the right place. I will have to check over at the AVS forum. Anybody know if there is a more preferred woofer to use in the F20 these days? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.