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Cinema F-20 build thread


CECAA850

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The dotted lines are what I use to be sure the driver is centered in the hole. If you lay the driver upside down over the hole you have no way of knowing if it's centered without some point of reference. I normally use a dotted line larger than the diameter of the driver and center the driver in the drawn area. I'll also grind the t-nuts down if they hang over into the driver opening and put a little adhesive on them to be sure they stay put.

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ALWAYS try all the bolts to make sure of your spacing and thread match. It's a lot easier to make corrections now then after the panel is in the box. You'll notice that the gasket to seal the driver is on the wrong side of the driver. The driver selected is for a drop in type install. I'll need to make a gasket to be able to get a good seal in a face mount application.

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Here's what a FUBAR looks like. For some reason the hole I cut for the driver wasn't actually large enough for the driver to actually fit through. Hmmm. I had 2 choices at this point. Install the driver BEFORE the last panel was glued on and hope Michael never had to take it out or recut the hole. I could hear the conversation now, "I swear Michael it went right in for me!". It was a fleeting thought however so I recut the opening. That's why I couldn't use the original door, it was now too small. I had to cut a new door out of some left over MDF.

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Great thread! Nice detail description!

You'll notice that the gasket to seal the driver is on the wrong side of the driver. The driver selected is for a drop in type install. I'll need to make a gasket to be able to get a good seal in a face mount application.

I use duct seal paste to seal it and the access panel. Works great. Very cheap too.

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Thanks Pete. I ended up using gasket tape. Pics will follow later today most likely. The sub is almost done but it's taken me a while to get the pics up. All I have left to do is sand the top flush, wire the driver, install the wire cup and bolt the door on.

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This pic is of the back side of the door frame. If I had to do it over again, I think I'd make it out of one solid piece as opposed to the four seperate pieces that the plans called for. I think it would be easier. Eventually there'll be t-nuts inserted in it.

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I gasketed in between the door frame and the side it attatched to. My thinking was that after I gasket the door itself it will sit flush. It didn't so I had to shim the door. The gasket in this step would be omitted on a future build. Good idea, or so I thought at the time.

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