moray james Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 I would use a 1x1 which is really 3/4" x 3/4" just to confuse you. I would use a urethane or a PL style construction adhesive as it will grab to the wood very well and will also fill gaps. It will also probably give you some decent grip on the melamine. Nothing you are likely to buy will bond to the melamine and so the screws. You might find an adhesive which will bond to the melamine but don't hoed your breath. You should sand the memamind surface t enhance your chance at a decent grip. Thats the best you can do bond to the wood well and screw the baffle to the strapping. Best regards Moray James. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ousig Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 when I got my 20s almost 9 years ago both of the back panels vibrated bad. I took all of the drivers and horns out then took my drill with a 1/8th drill bit. and drilled VERY carefully small holes (maybe 3rd of an inch) from the inside kind of at an angle between the back and side panels...may have not done anything but was a good idea at the time! from there I put a bead of liquid nails all around the seams and let them dry/air out for a few days before putting the drivers back on. and i left them on the back the whole time. be aware that the fumes are extreme so do this somewhere that you dont have to stay with them. long story short it worked and they have held solid as a rock since then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klipschtastic Posted February 20, 2012 Author Share Posted February 20, 2012 Thanks again everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t-man Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 I did not use fasteners- I used PL PREMIUM construction adhesive (Home Depot). Yes, cleaning up old adhesive and sanding prior to fixing is a good idea. I did not wish to change/alter the appearance of my speakers from stock by adding screws, so I just glued/clamped/waited. I don't think it is necessary to use the screws, but that's just my opinion. You may find you will have to do some recessing of the 1x1s around the port area for clearance. I also had the woofer areas recessed a bit, but probably not necessary as the basket it tapered on the woofers and would likely not interfere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 You are probably good with your PL adhesive as that ought to have enough grab to hold on to the Melamine surface especially if you sanded the Melamine first. I recommend the screws as insurance and # six is big enough to have some grip and small enough to be unobtrusive (paint them black). If you check with adhesive manufacturers you will find that it is very difficult to find any adhesives which are actually recommended for (ie designed for) Melamine. If you remove the baffles and you have a table saw you coulf simply trim the inside surface of the baffles and remove the melamine then you can install your baffles on to 1 x 1 strapping with good old easy to find and cheap to buy white wood glue which is a PVA adhesive. I don't like to do repair work like this more than once so the right adhesive or the best one I can find along with some mechanical insurance, With bare wood to wood assembly woodscrews offer no mechanical advantage other than making it easier to assemble if you don't have any or enough clamps. Best regards Moray James. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amusingisthedawn Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Just wanted to add that I love my KLF 20's [Y] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klipschtastic Posted February 21, 2012 Author Share Posted February 21, 2012 Just bought some titebond polyurethene adhesive and some oak 3/4 strapping for half price from the local hardware store going out of business. I am going to use some of the small finishing screws with the square bit head to hold the back untill the glue dries. If I can stop listening to them long enough. It only rattles on the deepest of notes....lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ousig Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 you will love the speakers - I would never have let my dad take them if I had more room in our living area and if my wife didnt keep complaining about the "big black boxes" for years...! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 If you are going to drive screws into oak strapping make sure that you predrill first. Oak is hard and you could crack it if you don't tap the holes for the screws first. That was why I recommended strapping made of fir, basswood and the like which is happy (soft enough) to take nails and screws without splitting. Best regards Moray James.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klipschtastic Posted February 21, 2012 Author Share Posted February 21, 2012 Yes I will predrill the oak. I just like that it is rigid and dead straight plus won't strip out easily. Probably overkill though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klipschtastic Posted February 23, 2012 Author Share Posted February 23, 2012 I guess this thread is basically dead but just wanted to add that I am loving these speakers more the more I listen to them. I broke out some my guilty pleasure rap music to test them out and the bass from these just blows my mind! It also exposed a rattling rear baffle which I have repaired. I really think my speaker upgrade curiosity is satisfied with these. I doubt I will look any furthur for a long time if ever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Currie Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 Same here. I just can't imagine anything else sounding THAT much better. Definitely not $1,000+ better (got mine for $440). However, I DO wanna get the titanium tweets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ousig Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 for that price NOTHING does $1000 or less good luck finding anything better I already miss mine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 Keep your eyes open for a pair of CF3 you might even like them more than the KLF20. They will require a good size amp to make them go but worth it. Best regards Moray James. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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