Building Klipsch La Scala

[Yelims]

Hi!

This is my first one and I'm happy to contact you people.

I need some ideas on how to make steep-angled cuts in MDF that are needed for building La Scala's dog house.

It can be done using other cutting (asymmetrically) methods but I believe in "orthodox" way of shaping La Scalas.

Can anyone suggest some way that's DIY oriented, without great tool complexity.

In fact I'd like to find out how it's done "the Klipsch way"!

With deepest respect to you all wonderful people!!!

[Marvel]

Welcome!

Make a jig to hold the pieces vertically, and tilt the blade to 30 degrees.

Bruce

[Yelims]

Thanx Bruce!

That is a straightforward and logical idea. I will try that with my circular saw after some serious but simple jigging.

I have very modest tool-shed but quite a conviction so I think I'll make it work.

Here's my view on that.

[djk]

Just attach a large scrap to the rip fence (my fence had two key-hole slots, the aux fence was attached with two #8 pan-head sheet metal screws). Feed the stock in vertically, pushing one after the other, using a large piece of scrap to push the last piece of stock. Cut all the ramps in one piece, then rip down to the width. Piece of cake (I built 24 LS with a cheap Sears saw).

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Cut all 22-1/4" items without moving the fence, box will be square that
way (rip oversize and re-saw if need be).

Set the blade to 30*,
take your time and get it right. If your blade heels (most do), set the
fence to be parallel with the blade. The set on the teeth should just
shave the aux fence.

An auxillary fence is used to cut the 60*
angle, the board will be fed vertically into the blade. Use the next
chamber angle board as a push board, then the ramps, then an absolutely
square push board will be needed for the last item.

Cut all ramps
in one piece at 60* and 30*, then re-saw to 3" (add for your saw kerf).

A
brad nailer is used on the 60* boards to attach to the chamber sides
and (later) make the front angle.

I use 8d galvanized casement
nails for about everthing else. With skill they can be driven flush
without a nailset and leave no mark on the wood.

Lay the chamber
sides into a grove on the saw top. Lay the chamber angle sides on top
and square up with the table edge. Tack in with two wire brads, then
carefully pull appart. Apply glue to the joint, re-assemble, tap the two
brads in all the way, and check to see if it is still square. Nail the
rest of the joint with brads. Check for square (easier to fix now than
later). This is all much easier than it sounds.

Set the T-nuts (I
use a C-clamp), make sure they have threads!. Glue and nail the ramps
onto the motorboard. Draw lines on the motorboard so your nails will
actually hit the ramps. Blunt the point of the nails to avoid splitting.
Dry fit. Drive two nails for each ramp, but only a fraction of an inch
into the ramp. Mark the order of the ramps on the motor board. Knock
apart. Glue. Drive the nails home, add a third nail to each ramp if you
like. Use a Surform body file if you need to lose any wood that hangs
out past 22-1/4", the points should hang over the 15-1/4" width.

Line
up the motorboard assembley with the back and draw nail lines for the
ramps. Cut the deflector shorter than 13", it will save a lot of grief.
Attach to the back. Are your nail lines going to be visable?

Dry
fit the side/angle assembley to the motorboard with a couple of blunted
nails. Start all the nails you will use. Glue. Make sure its square.
Drive home the nails. Repeat for the other side/angle assembley. Use a
small spacer to keep the front angle open while you work. When the whole
mess is square, remove spacer and use the brad nailer on the front
angle.

If the doghouse is not square at this point, stop and fix
it.

Dry fit the chamber bottom to the back with two or three
nails, then dry fit the doghouse to the bottom with a couple of nails.
Glue on the bottom. Glue on the back. Dry fit the chamber top. Glue on
the top.

I use a two-flute panel cutter with a guide bearing to
cut the woofer mounting hole in the bottom, use the brad nailer to tack
on a guide for the router to follow the front edge of the cut.

[kg4guy]

Here is a link to a single I built maybe it will help in assembly .http://community.klipsch.com/forums/p/136737/1387069.aspx#1387069

[Yelims]

djk, I can't thank you enough for this crash-course in advanced carpentry. This kind of insight I can really use and maybe spread the word. You filled all the blanks in my mind. Still it's a big piece to swallow so I'll take time and digest it for while. (I'll produce pictures as I go)

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kg4guy, thank you for the visuals. I appreciate any building sequence suggestion I get.

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I am planning this for quite awhile and at first I decided to go to a professional carpenter but in Croatia this kind of service is almost non-existent. I decided to do it myself (or to do it to myself [] ). In time I found the greater inner value of this path so I'm pushing forward.

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You all make this forum the greatest I find anywhere. Thank you

[muel]

...You all make this forum the greatest I find anywhere. Thank you

+1

[Y]