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JasonJCarney

Tuba HT

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So I picked this THT up a couple days ago. I'm finally getting around to setting it up. My question is how do I go about corner loading it? Does the opening point towards the front or rear wall right up against a side wall? Does it get kitty cornered? Any help would be great. Thx

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i beleive you aim the mouth(the end with the opening) into the corner aprrox 15-18 inches.

i had it up against the wall(side of cabinet with the driver compartment door) with the opening about 18 inches from the other corner wall.

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Ok.... I'll try that in a bit. Right now it's just in the middle of the room and it's booming. :) also did you have the mouth facing the front wall or rear wall?

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Got the best results on the RSW-15 by facing the active driver into the corner. 18" from sidewall and 18" from back wall.

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Does the THT need some kind of eq device? Right now I have an 50 watt amp powering it. The amp is getting a signal from the subwoofer preout on the Onkyo. It's a 600 watt Rms driver but it's bottoming out with 50 watts. I'm wondering if the LFE channel is sending it signals it can't handle? Does anyone know if I need another piece of equipment here? Is the design of the tube such that it could cause the driver to bottom out with little power? Any help would be great. Thanks

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Well I just connected it to one channel of my Onkyo M-282. It doesn't seem to be bottoming out anymore. Perhaps my audiosource amp is either malfunctioning or just not good for a sub in general. Still playing with placement. There's really only 1 place this will fit in my room. The only question is which direction I face the port in. The bass seems very smooth, almost understated compared to my A5-350's. I'm not gonna get carried away with a review right now though. I'm gonna play a while then I may think about getting a monoblock amp for it. Right now it's using the channel I usually power my 6th channel with.

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Time to get a multimeter, test tones, and maybe even an SPL meter.

28V volts is the max it'll take, and given your account, I seriously doubt you were even close to that. Don't mistaken a clipped or distorted input signal for a malfunctioning driver.

Horns are the big league now, no more guessing around. Their distortion-free output obey all laws of acoustics to the letter, and that means if you make a mistake setting it up, the device won't make up for it in any way

Double-edge sword. Incredible performance quotient...but it takes the right know-how to get the most out of them. They're not plug and play as you're finding out.

As far as an amp to drive them...at a minimum it has to have a built in, adjustable low-pass filter. You can't run the sub full-range. Either a plate or chassis style Dayton subwoofer amp is in order. BASH amps from Rythmic and O-audio are also great picks.

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What about the ep amps that eD sells? Would those work? I checked out the rhythmik and o-audio amps you suggested and they only sell plate amps. I need a rack mount amp. Think I'll call eD today and see what they say.

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What about the ep amps that eD sells? Would those work? I checked out the rhythmik and o-audio amps you suggested and they only sell plate amps. I need a rack mount amp. Think I'll call eD today and see what they say.

Just be sure it has a high pass filter. I know the 500watt O-Audio has one.

The horn sub and ported subs your used to are going to sound differently. As stated above, set up using an SPL meter. If you try to do it by ear you generally run the horn sub too hot.

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So I picked this THT up a couple days ago. I'm finally getting around to setting it up. My question is how do I go about corner loading it? Does the opening point towards the front or rear wall right up against a side wall? Does it get kitty cornered? Any help would be great. Thx

I Quote Bill Fitzmaurice

"Boundary loading should be used whenever its practical to do so. Having subs next to a wall gets you up to 6dB of additional sensitivity below about 80Hz, and putting them in a corner up to 12dB. In most cases youll have best results with the cabinet mouth against one wall, about 18 inches from the adjacent wall. If the cabinet mouth is a quarter-wavelength from a boundary there will be up to a 24dB deep cancellation at that frequency. Within the nominal bandwidth of the THTLP a quarter-wavelength ranges from 19 feet at 15 Hz to 2.8 feet at 100 Hz, so middle of room placement usually wont work well. You may put the THTLP upright aimed at the ceiling, or on 16 to 24 inch legs aimed at the floor. Every room is different, so try a variety of placements to find the one that works best."

This is mouth pointing down. The THTLP is 72x18x24.5inch.

It's awesome, I got to visit it again today and give it some tweaking. I was playing the Danley test tracks

Fireworks Finale4.wav

Full coal train with Helper.wav

Harley.wav

TrainStart.wav

Madonna, Deeper and Deeper, Rain, Vogue and others.

The low end rolls out below your hearing. There is no woofer sound. It just sounds real. The trains sound like your standing next to the train.

I was checking for time alignment and settled for a delay on the High Frequency Units of about 10.99 feet.

post-45280-1381969108574_thumb.jpg

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Looking into the mouth from below and you can see the mountings on the 2 walls.

post-45280-1381969108678_thumb.jpg

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Looking into the mouth and you can see where I joined to short bits of ply together in the centre of the cross brace with the router and the wall mounting bracket.

post-45280-1381969108757_thumb.jpg

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I appreciate the help. However I did look at all those amps already. Thadeuss do you own one of those amps? The thing is a plate amp is worthless to me and those Dayton rack amps are litered with reviews about how they don't put out rated power. In addition Mearly linking an amp does nothing to help me understand why I should pick said amp. Does anyone know why I should pick a specific amp or type of amp? Thx

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Thaddeus has the O-audio amp, I'd give it serious consideration.

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I appreciate the help. However I did look at all those amps already. Thadeuss do you own one of those amps? The thing is a plate amp is worthless to me and those Dayton rack amps are litered with reviews about how they don't put out rated power. In addition Mearly linking an amp does nothing to help me understand why I should pick said amp. Does anyone know why I should pick a specific amp or type of amp? Thx

until you give us specific information about your particular THT driver and tuning, we can't help you with specific suggestions. so generic subwoofer amp options were provided. DIY subs are not a one size fits all - I have 8 months of research invested in my sub setup and I've barely scratched the surface of knowing everything I should.

yes, i have the oAudio 500w plate amp. it's very capable, runs cool, has some decent tweaking options and can easily be boxed in as a separate device with just a little bit of time in the wood shop and some scrap lumber + paint.

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I am using a Crown XLS-202 to power 2 of these, and never have it up much more than half way even at extreme listening levels. I gotta think that is about 100 watts rms, as this is a 200 wpc at 8 ohms. Any pro amp out there will work fine. I use the LFE out into an XLR adapter then into the Crown. The preamp does all the LPF just fine. My subs are placed in the front, which is the least efficient way, but I have them radiused out so as to minimize cancellation, and maximize dispersion.

The Crown is on the left sub.

post-47699-0-84520000-1385657302_thumb.j

Edited by mustang guy

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