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JasonJCarney

Tuba HT

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Everything seems ok....Im thinking it's just a placement issue at this point.

I think you may be right.

That angle under the stairs may be just killing the sound ? Maby just turn it slightly to point it into the room just for a test. That thing should be plenty bass for your room. I use a "spud" two 8 in drivers with a little AVA250 plate amp at about 180 wpc. The gain on the sub is at about 11 o'clock and it has good bass in a 24 x 18 room.

That's what made me thing something was killing the bass.

I have to agree if the wiring is correct (I totally screwed that up on my SPUD build [:$]) you must have a placement or room issue. I can run the SPUD or a single RSW 15 or a TUBA HT in a room that is really open and around 30x25 and get more than enough bass for music or HT out of any of the subs mentioned and actually have to dial them down a bit, but I'm sure the room acoustics have a huge part to play in that. I would invest a couple hours moving the beast around playing the same reference with the same output and see what happens first. I know you pulled the panel off and it looks great, but did you run it while you were screwing with all the connections? I know I'm taking the non scientific approach, but I was ready to toss my Onkyo out the window after quickly checking connections and thinking that I had the right side gone in the Onkyo, only to find that is was the banana plug, so I would seriously check it from the source to the sub and do the placement test and see what happens. Hope you find it because you have a great sub.

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Is that silicone around the edge of the woofer? If the driver is not getting a perfect seal against the motor board the sub will not get to proper volume.

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Is that silicone around the edge of the woofer? If the driver is not getting a perfect seal against the motor board the sub will not get to proper volume.

This is correct. The seal between the speaker frame and motorboard needs to be 100% airtight. As I was building mine, I recall reading many threads, and that was an extremely important part of the speaker performance. I actually used this when I mounted my drivers.

The access panel can also be a source of leaks. That can be tested pretty easily bu running about a 10hz test tone and listening for chuffing. I used the same speaker gasket tape for the access panel.

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(I totally screwed that up on my SPUD build Embarrassed)

I did the same thing, wired wrong for the design, I was ready to pitch the cabinet if that's all it could do, glad i found it now. [Y]

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Well the only way to be sure the driver is sealed 100% is probably to add a bead of silicone around the entire driver. The material on mine appears to be hot glue. Maybe Gigbyt can offer some assistance on that since he built it.

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Digging around inside the cab is futile at this point. You won't find anything there. It's simply not the problem.

Where's your multimeter?

How in the world can you have that laundry list of goodies in your signature, and haven't yet sprung for a multimeter? [^o)]

It needn't be expensive...$30-$70 Extech, Craftsman, or Amprobe will do just fine. Buy a used one for even more savings. Beg or borrow one from your neighbor if you have to.

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Where's your multimeter?

How in the world can you have that laundry list of goodies in your signature, and haven't yet sprung for a multimeter? Hmm

Yeah I know [:$] Ill get one soon. I won't have anytime to work on this until after the 28th or 29th. Ill grab one then and check my power. I should have bought a multimeter and a spl meter a long time ago

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Consider corner loading of your tuba by suspending it 18" above the floor mouth pointing down.

Your Tuba is 36x36x24 so if you place it mouth down with the long side of the mouth parallel against the wall that is away from your lounge. The 36x36 side should be against your rear wall. Then you should have clearance to raise it up 18" above the floor.

Your mouth is 24x15" so from the mouth side of the cabinet 36"-15"=21". so you have 36"x21" to support it from the floor. Therefore, you can sit the Tuba on an open frame "plastic milk crate" about 18" high under the 21"x36" area next to the mouth and it will balance like that for testing purposes. The area under the tuba will cause the sound to flow out across the floor. If your lounge is hard up against the Tuba it should feel interesting at least. The recommended distance above the floor is 16" - 24".

Effectively, you would have the same setup as in the picture of the THT LP except you have a 36"x21" flat area along the long edge of your mouth.

Experimenting, with the height above the floor is recommended to find the sweet spot. You could get a couple of mates to hold it up while you listen and get them to raise and lower it. I would not volunteer for this job as I play piano and have delicate fingers.

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Ohhh and btw, to test for leaks you need a reasonable length of soft plastic hose.

Open the woofer chamber and apply 20hz @ 10volts. Place one end of the tube at your ear and move the other end around the joins and around the driver. Any leaks will make a hissing sound you will hear through the tube. The 20hz will not pass though the tube. I tested the woofer cover with it not properly screwed down so I knew what it would sound like.

You could use 2 people to do this one to listen and one to move the other end of the tube, since you only have 2 hands. The person listening can have a beverage while comfortably listening on your lounge. Please attach a photo if you choose this option.

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You better explain your plan before you hand your friend a length of tube. Of course, if you have a funnel and a picher of beer you will probably be ok.

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You better explain your plan before you hand your friend a length of tube. Of course, if you have a funnel and a picher of beer you will probably be ok.

lol.... took me a minute to get that!

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sorry for getting off topic Jason.......

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Just ordered up the Dayton Spa500. I'll see if the increased power brings the THT to life. If I can't get good placement in the basement I'll try it in the master bedroom. If I have to move to bedroom I may look into a wireless sub signal. Anyone use one?

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Just ordered up the Dayton Spa500. I'll see if the increased power brings the THT to life. If I can't get good placement in the basement I'll try it in the master bedroom. If I have to move to bedroom I may look into a wireless sub signal. Anyone use one?

I would think twice about moving it to the bedroom because when that thing starts thumping, you might be replaced and have to sleep on the couch.[:P]

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I showed your post to my wife. She just shook her head up and down in agreement and said. "I don't know how you can even hear a difference at such loud volumes, that thing shakes the house." I laughed thinking to myself, wait till I get the new amp.....

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Hooked up the Dayton real quick tonight. Seems to be providing tons of power. Ive got to run audyssey again and have a listen after that. I'll grab a multimeter tomorrow and check the signal strength coming from the onkyo as well. It was shaking the house tonight so much that the wife was texting me from 2 floors up... "Really!!!!? U better stop"

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Thats awesome, so I assume its a worthwhile upgrade then, any comparisons on output levels between the tht and dual eds?

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I knew that THT could pound!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!![<:o)]

Yes that is hot glue around the driver, i applied it where i found leaks and got rid of them completely.So absolutley NO leaks!

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Decided on a stain today. It's a dark reddish cherry. Tried to match the dark cherry klipsch. I would say I was unsuccessful at matching however I do like very much the way it turned out.

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