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Braces for kg4.5


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I recently added internal bracing to my klipsch kg4.5. I can't believe how much better they sound. I used to have a tough time matching the phase with my velodyne optimum 10. Now they sound as though they were built for each other. These speakers now with new cross braces, and new titanium diaphragms are just amazing. They still have the original caps. I'm leaving them alone for a while. I wonder why the designers only used corner bracing originally. Doesn't seem like it would have cost much more to add braces needed to make these speakers so much better. I'm thrilled, 20 dollar upgrade that sounds priceless. Thank God for the info available on this forum.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello "JustTayler", thank you for the information!! I plan on doing the same thing to my KG 5.5's this year as I was curious to know if there would be any improvement... looks like there will be ( good news ) !! I upgraded my KG's with Bob Crites new cross overs & Ti tweers as I noticed an improment but not "day & night" as some have reported but never the less I believe it was worth it.

When I replaced the cross overs & tweeters I was amazed to see that there was no internal bracing & just small amount of foam as otherwise it was one big empty box. If you dont mind me asking.... do you have any photos to share?? If not thats ok too, I would just like to see how you braced them and what you used. I could figure it out I believe but I have never done anything of the such for speakers so I am just looking for advise. :) Once again thanks for sharing the info. !

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I wonder why the designers only used corner bracing originally. Doesn't seem like it would have cost much more to add braces needed to make these speakers so much better.

Not much cost for a single user to go back and add the braces, but the cost for the manufacturer to add them would cost a lot over hundreds or thousands of speakers.

Bruce

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Sorry, I didn't think to take photographs. There are two ways to do this.

1: Remove all components from cabinet and all contents. Violently knock off the back panel through the woofer opening. Add shelving braces or cross braces where desired. Re-glue your back panel.

2: Remove the woofers and internal foam. Measure the internal dimensions of the speaker. Stay away from the corners because they are properly braced already. Buy untreated wood for your braces at home depot. You can cut your braces 1mm shorter than the internal dimensions of the box. I added cross braces 1inch below the woofer and it worked out great. I didn't wan't to add screws from the outside. I used Gorilla wood glue. It works extremely well, but be careful. Do this in a shop and where gloves. The glue expands to about 5 times its size. As long as you can barely align the strait edges of your first brace perpendicular to the sides of the cabinet and it fits securely without glue it will work great. You will have to find a way to set the first brace. I used old hardback books stacked on top of each other side by side. When I set the brace on top of the books it was perfectly centered. After you see that your first brace fits securely without glue, remove your first brace and dab some glue on each side. Be careful though, this stuff blows up like a balloon and becomes part of the wood. After the first brace dries for about an hour. Check its firmness. I was able to easily swing the speaker around violently by the brace only! Now adding a second brace is simple because your first brace is already there to set it. Cut and glue your second brace from back to front, perpendicular to your first brace. Let dry. Give the cabinet a wrap and hear how dead it sounds compared to the other. You can add additional braces until you reach the desired effect.

Cheers!

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