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Denon 4311


ivanhurd
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I'd say that's still pretty good. I would guess that's probably going to be almost double what my Onkyo was pushing out.

Very possible.

If the amps are rated at 140 what holds them back when all channels are working, the power supply ?

Bigger power supplies must be expensive, it seems you hear of this alot no matter what brand ? You would think they would put a power supply to allow everything to run as designed. I am NO EE and don't understand this, there may be other reasons why this happens, or is it just cost cutting by manufactures which it shouldn't be at these prices ?

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Most likely cost cutting would be the best guess.

You got it. In order to cram all the latest and greatest bells and whistles into one box, something has to go. In most cases, that would be the power supply and the use of more plastic in the construction. From what I have read, Denon did beef up the power supply some in the 4311CI over the 4310CI to accomodate the (2) extra channels and 10w/ch higher rating.

http://receivers.findthebest.com/compare/60-67/Denon-AVR-4311CI-vs-Denon-AVR-4310CI

Pretty lame, but from an article I just read, the heavier an amp/avr, the more likely you are going to get the full rating.

This NAD tips the scales at 56 pounds. The NAD T785HD's published output is 120w/channel with all channels driven.

It sure fits that description very well:

NAD T785 A/V Receiver

TEST BENCH

DOLBY DIGITAL PERFORMANCE
All data were obtained from various test DVDs using 16-bit dithered test signals, which set limits on measured distortion and noise performance. Reference input level is -20 dBFS, and reference output is 1 watt into 8 ohms. Volume setting for reference level was -4. All level trims at zero; except for during subwoofer-related tests, all speakers were set to "large," subwoofer on. All are worst-case figures where applicable.

Output at clipping (1 kHz into 8/4 ohms)
1 channel driven: 174/218 W (22.4/23.4 dBW)
5
channels driven (8 ohms): 148 W (21.7 dBW)
7
channels driven (8 ohms): 121 W (20.8 dBW)

2 channels driven (8 ohms): 172 W

Bill

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Looking at that chart, that should be a standard for rating amps, just say what it is with all channels driven and let people judge for themselves what they want at each price point.

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^^^That's just not good marketing tho! =^P

Which one, honest specs or "misleading" specs? If you are speaking about the "misleading" numbers, you are right. The "gullable undiscerning" buying public may not purchase the "honest"(all channels driven) 90w/channel receiver and go for the "not so honest"(2 channels driven) 120w/channel receiver that may produce 65w/channel with 7 channels driven. If it is the honest numbers you are speaking about, you are correct there also. Who wants an $1800.00 65w/channel HT receiver?

Not really false advertising just "manipulated" advertising.

Bill

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Lots of talk about watts per channel and that is game they play.Something to consider is that a 65 watts per channel unit may sound superior to a 120 watt per channel unit.The pre stage and implimentation is where the sound is, a true 65 Watts per channel done right sounds fantastic on any Klipsch speaker.A 120 watts done poorly could make one hate a Klipsch speaker.The more gear you own or audition the more you understand those numbers are not that important, sound is .The Denon will not be lacking in power, I have owned several if you look back over the years here.

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True. I never knew about that whole thing until recently when I started shopping for a new receiver and speakers

I will tell you one thing, you bought one fine looking feature laden receiver with all the top knotch up to date bells and whistles, DAC's, and EQ that you will(may) ever need. If you feel that the amps on board are just not up to the task of driving your system to silly SPL's(which I doubt), you can always add an outboard amplifier to the mix later and the 4311CI would be one heck of a prepro.

Bill

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For the money, it was well worth it and I would recommend it. And the upgrade card was the icing on the cake for me.I think the xmc-1 will rock. I like the look of the matching components and believe it or not I even like that big remote kinda retro. One of the things that bugged me is you always have to have the receiver on to even watch tv. On my onyko I could watch tv with the receiver off and listen through the tv speakers. With the emotive if the umc is off, you get no picture, until you turn it on. The onkyo must have allowed the signal to still pass through while in the standby mode. I like that feature as I always to not want to listen in surround sound.

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My HDMI cable from my cable box goes to my TV.I'm watching tv no UMC, I want to hear the TV through the UMC, just turn on the UMC set to cable and it's on via coax from my box.

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For the money, it was well worth it and I would recommend it. And the upgrade card was the icing on the cake for me.I think the xmc-1 will rock. I like the look of the matching components and believe it or not I even like that big remote kinda retro. One of the things that bugged me is you always have to have the receiver on to even watch tv. On my onyko I could watch tv with the receiver off and listen through the tv speakers. With the emotive if the umc is off, you get no picture, until you turn it on. The onkyo must have allowed the signal to still pass through while in the standby mode. I like that feature as I always to not want to listen in surround sound.

I've noticed that with the Onkyo as well when I turn the power off the picture is still up on the TV.
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I love my 4311. I just upgraded my speakers (RF-7iis, RC-64ii, RB-51iis) and the 4311 runs them just fine. I love the airplay feature and use it often. I am also a fan of the GUI, web control features, settings save/load, and Audyssey xt32.

If you have not already, make sure to read Batpig's guide: http://batpigworld.com/

Also, there are some very knowledgeable people that frequent the 4311 forum on AVS if you run into trouble.

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I never could get the pass throgh with my avr to work correct, so I ran componet cables to the tv so that I don't have to have to keep the rest of the system on . An HDMI 1.4 cabe may get the pass through to work or the use of a power conditioner to always kep certain components on.

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I have this reciever. You will be happy with it. Don't need externals (except for subs) unless you want 11.2, like me. I run the fronts off a McIntosh and the other 9 off the AVR. A QSC powers the subs and another QSC the bass shakers. It works. PS. I could never get my 12v trigger to work....I think it must just be me.

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