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25Hz Tapped Horn


CECAA850

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So either I didn't put this thing together right or it is extremely underwhelming to me. It seems so easy to find the woofers limits. Like EXTREMELY easy. Worries me that even the second one will not make a difference.

Considering your past and present subwoofers wouldn't just about EVERYTHING be underwhelming?

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Considering your past and present subwoofers wouldn't just about EVERYTHING be underwhelming?

That's so true. Going from four 18's to a single 6 1/2 is going to yield a slight drop in performance. In my application, music in a 12 x 12 bedroom, it's more than enough.

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If you use a sub plate amp, you can run your speaker wires to the plate amp, then from the plate amp to the speakers. Just be sure your plate amp has high level inputs.

Any recommendations regarding a sub plate amp?

I have a couple of extra ones I will let go real cheap. I used to drive my MWMs with them. Do you still have my number?

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Carl, would two of these sitting vertically beside my L/R Belles work to fill in some bottom during 2 channel?

At lesser listening levels yes. Once you push the Belles they won't keep up though. You'd be better off with a Table Tuba. Maybe a narrow one under or around each one.

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well i am just gonna put the second one together and measure them both after. i just feel like i might have done something wrong on the first one. it has descent output but i almost feel like i can hear something buzzing inside at times. like i didn't get one panel tight enough. or maybe didn't tighten down the woofer enough? i didn't wanna strip the woofer but i fear that is what i did wrong maybe. not sure if i can get a little right angle phillips and fix that issus reaching through the throat?

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I've never used Loctite PL adhesive before. In the past, I've used Elmer's Carpenter glue or Titiebond when assembling enclosures from MDF or plywood. The strength of the resulting glues joints was sufficient. The surrounding material would fracture before the glue joints.

Nevertheless, for this project I decided to follow the directions of the designer and used PL. Right out of the tube (caulking gun) it has the consistency of Liquid Nails. My initial reaction was regret for not using Titebond rather than "chewing gum" to stick the panels together. Now that days have passed and it has cured, I'm, glad I followed directions . . . . for once.

The most obvious advantage of the more viscous PL is the way it fills any voids in the dado joints and squeezes out. Wood glue would not do that as well. Now that it has cured, it's hard and solid.

I used my Paslode cordless nail gun to connect the panels while the PL cured. I promise to provide some photos by the weekend. The tiny nail holes will be easily filled with vinyl spackle (see https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=user_activity&mid=6832) before priming and then 2 coats of Duratex. Despite the assurance of Duratex that primer isn't necessary on bare wood, their cautions about adhesion problems on wood putty, makes primer over PL residue a worthwhile precaution.

Edited by DizRotus
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