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this never ends!!! does it? Amp question now


klipshcom

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Not sure what your mains were before. The rb-51? Either way your two most important speakers are a little bit behind everything else now. But hey that's what's fun about this hobby. You say your happy with it now then be happy.mwhen a good deal comes up on a rc-64. But it! When a good deal comes up on a great sub buy it. I can tell you right now if you swapped avr and got a different one and added the amp the bass that the rf-63's can make is insane. With that being said they also can make pretty damn good bass on their own too. If you play your music on stereo try pure audio if the 609 has it. Or try going in your menu amd set it to stereo but turn off the sub and that will change the mains to large. Then they will get all the lows and full power at 2 channels only. When your running seven you lose a ton of power. Prolly running 50 watts x 7 once all channels are driven.

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hope this is what you mean

front 40, center 60, surround 80 (THX) front high 60, lpf of lfe 120.....

Just out of curosity...assuming those numbers are good and isnt any cause for problems....if i have red from speaker going to black on reciever and so forth can that have neg affect on performance? My speaker wire wasnt marked so I hooked em up and they worked but never really payed attn. to that.

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I apologize if you think I'm busting in your new sub I was just simply saying it will have a hard time keeping up with your new massive rf-63's. Sorry not trying to be negative. Just giving you honesty. As for the crossovers. I run my 63's at 70 and I would run the rest of your stuff around 80. It looks like you prolly have them all around their lower limits. What that does at higher volume is outs more stress in the amps. You can even try running all of them at 80 and maybe change the sub to like 100. And yes the speakers being connected out of phase can cause issues. I would check that first then try playing with crossovers amd see what you like. Sorry if I offended you on your sub. I def did not mean too.

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If i understand you correctly you mean you changed the positive and negative cables backwards (possibly as you don't know) then yes this can affect the performance as this changes the polarity( this is called 180 degrees out of phase) and the speaker cone is now pushing air behind the speaker instead of in front like it was designed to do. This messes up how it was designed both the speaker and the enclosure, so it is important to have the correct polarity.

IMO youd want the fronts higher like 80hz crossover as the sub (depending on what you have) should produce that frequency more easily and better, then with surround if they are all bookshelf speakers which i can see are you want them at 80 or even higher maybe even 120 as they have smaller drivers and less bass response.

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no offense taken!!! i know theres always better, i was stuck in a certain price range and it fit....its ok scrappy =) AND THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP

PS....My sub is Known for its deep, driving bass, the SW-110 subwoofer is a must-have
addition to your home theater experience. Featuring a BASH® Digital
Hybrid amplifier and a highly damped, non-resonant woven fiberglass
driver, this sonic wonder enhances any speaker system and blends
seamlessly with your décor.



  • Fills any room with high-powered bass
  • Highly efficient design produces more output using less energy
  • Dimensions: 14" H x 12.5" W x 17" D
  • Stylish, compact subwoofer looks as good as it sounds
  • Hahaaaaaa
  • I just looked up your subs....2 grand!!! A PIECE!!!! no wonder............Jeeez
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I made the same mistake when I bought my 609 without thinking about adding an amp. Whoops. It's now been retired to the living room where it absolutely cranks my Klipsch Gallery speakers. With a tiny sub added to them, people literally run from the room when it gets going. Powering the RF7's on the other hand was not so good. Switching to the Onkyo TX-NR3008 and an Emotiva XPA-5 really made a huge difference. The XPA-5 powers the RF7's, RC7, and RS7's, while the receiver handles just the RB5's as rears. Theres a lot to be said for head room with speakers and adding an amp will typically give you all that you'll need. Get a receiver with preouts and don't look back.

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You could benefit from a better avr. The one you have is 100 watt with 2 channels driven. In an HT setup that power rating goes way down. If you like things very loud, get another avr. Class D amps are more effeicient than The class AB and do not have to weight as much and generally run cooler. The majority of the class D amps are very good, so I would not stay away from them. Used amps can be had for a fraction of the cost and could work well for you. Having something that can run a 4 ohm load would befenit your speaker. Avr's and amps that can handle 4 ohms are usually high current amp with a decent slew factor and damping factor for better dynamic and control the the speakers. Denon, Pioneer, Onkyo and some other brands all make good avr. Using an avr as the preamp is a very cost effective way to improve your system. I use a couple of vintage amps in my system with the avr acting as a preamp with excellent results. Something for the front and center speakers should do the trick for you. Let the avr drive the other speakers.

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no offense taken!!! i know theres
always better, i was stuck in a certain price range and it fit....its ok
scrappy =) AND THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP

PS....My sub is Known for its deep, driving bass, the SW-110 subwoofer is a must-have
addition to your home theater experience. Featuring a BASH® Digital
Hybrid amplifier and a highly damped, non-resonant woven fiberglass
driver, this sonic wonder enhances any speaker system and blends
seamlessly with your décor.




If you click over on tab from their product description you'll see their spec sheet, they more or less have a cookie cutter description on all of their products, heres where you need an informed person or dealer on their products...

FREQUENCY RESPONSE:
28Hz-120Hz ± 3dB

As a comparision your towers are rated at 30hz...a few years ago 20hz was the magic number you wanted a sub rated down to, now thats sometimes even not enough but for most people it still is, but with rf63s you definitely want a very capable sub

The SW-110 is similiar to the rw10d, I had a 10d in my setup when testing out for a relative, its a nice little inexpensive sub but its going to be way to little when you start getting into the movies. When you get an amp on your speakers your going to be asking if the subs doing anything at all, its possible you get more bass from your towers already if you set them to full. On a realisitc level my suggestion for a sub if you stay with klipsch would be the sw-115 to keep up with your setup, otherwise internet direct companies would be a great way to go to get more for your money, quite a few of us have chosen this route. The sw115 is the only real id competition in terms of price / preformance

The kv-2 is also next on the list, grab a rc62 / 64 when you get the chance, I had sold a kv 2 and had listened to it in the same room as my 64 with same equipment. Night and day...the rc62/64 will give you a more seemless transition and not be trailing in the dust.

If you just purchased the sub / receiver see what your dealer can do for you just simply let them know they aren't up to the task

Or if you can get enough on resale go that route, the umc is a nice addition if you can but isnt an instant plug and play, it needs a little extra tweaking over some receivers, a emotiva upa-7 you could find used from time to time or upa-xpa 2/5 combo, if your going to spend 500 or more on a receiver and intend on adding amps later its a good idea to look into preamps and amps right away, it'll probably save you money

My .02

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center speaker is a KV2 from my old system (its all thats left) I was told to get the RC64 but it seems really big...where as the KV2 fits nicely where it is. Is there really that BIG of a differance....

The KV2 was my first center until I upgraded to the RC-7 and then the RC-64. There is no doubt in my mind that the RC-64 is in a whole other world compared to the KV2. As long as you have clean power going to the RC-64, your ears will give out far before the speaker does. Yep, it's that good.

now lets go over the big
differences....drivers 2 5.25" vs 4 6.5"..huge difference....TWEETERS...
1" POLYMER compression driver vs 1.25" Titatnium Driver....Huge
Difference..... Sensitivity..92db vs 99 db...HUGE difference...Power
handling... 75 vs 200....huge difference... WEIGHT 13lbs vs 61
LBS...HUGE difference and roughly twice as wide with not much added
height little deeper as well. see where i am going with this..?? this
center will change your experience a huge amount vs what you have
now....at least on paper. but i have never heard your center so hey
might not be that different.

You are spot on Scrappy...at least that was my experience

Check out a thread I wrote when I first got my parasound amp (220 x 5)

First Impressions of the Parasound HCA2205a Amp

I have the larger RF-83's and the amp was a good investment. I paid $750 for it and at the time, I really didn't want to spend that much but now I'm glad I did. I believe it will be VERY difficult to find a 200 x 7 for $500. I would have no reservation telling you to get a 5ch amp and use your receiver to power the other two speakers. Some even buy a 3ch amp and then power the other 4 speakers with your receiver.

To answer your question, "Does it ever end"? Look at how many responses you have received in 1 day of your posting? That ought to validate your suspicion. LOL

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The RF63 have a sensitivity of 99 compared to 106 for the SW 110 with a 4in larger driver, the sub will out perform the tower by a large margin. Usa a decent avr with pre-out is a good match with an amp, to get a really nice pre-amp with the features of most upper mid level or higher avr's get's expensive

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I am no doubt a novice at best when it comes to this stuff but i enjoy it, i also appreciate all the informative responses. I wish i could afford to get a new reciever to go with my new amp....However, i just cant justify it at this time. Before my bud opened his big mouth telling me that my speakers would come alive with an amp I was quite happy with what i have, that being said...I have decided to look for a RC-64 instead, from what ive read on the subject it seems that i would be better off with that rather than an amp at this time.....Music and movies take up a pretty large amount of time so at this point i think i would be better served with the new center. Im looking if anyone is selling....Found one on craigs for 300+ship....sent email...we will c!!! Thanks again, U guys ROCK!!!!

PS as far as ending.....when the pocket runs dry i guess... =)

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The RF63 have a sensitivity of 99 compared to 106 for the SW 110 with a 4in larger driver, the sub will out perform the tower by a large margin. Usa a decent avr with pre-out is a good match with an amp, to get a really nice pre-amp with the features of most upper mid level or higher avr's get's expensive

Derrick you would be somewhat correct if he unhooked all the drivers and only left one hooked up. But I think you are forgetting the rf-63 has three 6.5 inch drivers which should be more cone surface area than a ten. So I think saying that the sub will outperform a set of rf-63's is unfair.
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The RF63 have a sensitivity of 99 compared to 106 for the SW 110 with a 4in larger driver, the sub will out perform the tower by a large margin

SW-110---FREQUENCY RESPONSE: 28Hz-120Hz ± 3dB

At 28Hz it may out perform the RF-63's but I guarantee it won't at 40Hz 60Hz to 120Hz.

Bill

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Yes this is possible and why there are adjustable crossovers to account for things like this, a sub and a speaker may be able to reproduce a certain frequency but one usually can do better than the other so its natural to set the crossover towards the one that does.

However Willand you have to remember with the RF63's when you get down lower with these speakers the frequency response starts to drop off, sure the speakers are rated as low as 30hz but it actually starts to drop off around 60hz and decreases in SPL output. So i don't know if the speakers would actually do better that low in the frequency range, any speaker can theoretically rotate at low frequency's but you need more polarity shift and larger cone surface to induce a sound that's perceivable. Naturally a larger cone surface will have a better chance at hitting lower and 10" cone should range well between 30hz - 100hz but of course there are more things that factor in the final output not just the cone size so its not always that simple.

EDIT: how do you make new paragraphs on this forum, mine seem to just cluster together ? haha.

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However Willand you have to remember with the RF63's when you get down lower with these speakers the frequency response starts to drop off, sure the speakers are rated as low as 30hz but it actually starts to drop off around 60hz and decreases in SPL output. So i don't know if the speakers would actually do better that low in the frequency range, any speaker can theoretically rotate at low frequency's but you need more polarity shift and larger cone surface to induce a sound that's perceivable. Naturally a larger cone surface will have a better chance at hitting lower and 10" cone should range well between 30hz - 100hz but of course there are more things that factor in the final output not just the cone size so its not always that simple.

I stand corrected, maybe 60Hz to 120Hz is more like it.

Though, we are talking here about a Klipsch SW-110($499.99 msrp) and a pair of RF-63's not a JL Audio F110($2100.00 msrp) and a pair of RF-63's.

Bill

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