moray james Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 Yes if you want to repair the cone of the passive then you will have to remove the unit from the cabinet and it would be better if you did the repair work on the back side of the cone. Coffe filter paper is also excellent to patch with and for the large sectiond the card stock that DJk suggested would be best. I still like the idea of a whole cone overlap. You should find some dead speakers and practice doing repairs on them before you touch youe Forte passive. You have nothing to loose in attempting a repair as it is useless as it is. Do a good repair and it will work as well as new with no need to rplace it. Get some dead speakers and start learning how to do the job as neat and cleanly as you can. This is not much different from sticking paper mache on a balloon and just about every kid has made one of those. Best gegards Moray James. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted September 23, 2012 Share Posted September 23, 2012 In what part of Malaysia do you reside? I would think you could find something in Kuala Lumpur, given the size of the city, or perhaps travel to Singapore. I have repaired surrounds on speakers before, but not had to replace entire sections of the cone. As Moray mentioned, you have nothing to lose by trying. I used a product that stayed flexible when dry, which is what RTV compund would do. Paper on paper should be pretty easy, if not time consuming and ugly looking when done, but they are on the back and no one should be looking at them. Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ravinathan Posted September 24, 2012 Author Share Posted September 24, 2012 Reside in Penang. Bought the coffee filter paper and Uhu glue (for wood, leather etc). Plan to start this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ravinathan Posted September 24, 2012 Author Share Posted September 24, 2012 The glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted September 25, 2012 Share Posted September 25, 2012 is this white wood glue? PVA adhesive which is white wood glue is your best choice. As Dennis suggested card stock would be best for patching the large holes and the filter paper works well for tears where the edges meet. If you work the edges together well first you can apply a very thin line of adhesive from the outside along the tear let that set up and then use the filter paper as an overlay patch form the back side of the cone. You might want to pre seal the surface around the large holes with a 50 % diluted adhesive layer first then lrt that dry then apply your full strength adhesive layer allow to semi dry so it grabs faster. I would strongly recommend that you practice till you are good at this you can find dead speakers to work on. Don't practice on your only passive. Good luck and best regards Moray James. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leftwinger57 Posted September 25, 2012 Share Posted September 25, 2012 A trick that was told by me from an experienced speaker repair person said that using felt on a relatively small tear from the back side would be a good home repair method w/ the white speaker glue and it's definitely not Elmer's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted September 25, 2012 Share Posted September 25, 2012 I would use a glue that when dry would still have a little flexibility. After all, it will vibrate a LOT. You don't want little pieces of glue breaking off. Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted September 25, 2012 Share Posted September 25, 2012 PVA is the worlds highest volume (produced) adhesive and comes in many versions all adjusted to fit specific needs. Standard white wood glue is PVA and it is much stronger than the wood substrate and it does not fully harden it provides some compliance dependant upon the thickness of the glue line. Book binding cement (used for the spline is PVA adhesive also all be it adjusted to be extra flexible). Most of your hobby craft adhesives are also PVA. Any of these will work very well on paper and composite paper cone materials. A final top coat of a black primer paint on the outside of the cone would not only give a uniform color to the repaired cone but will also add a lot of additional stregth. Primers are actually excellent adhesives (some of the best) and a thin coat will not only adhear very well it will help to replace some of the original cone stiffness which was lost when the cone was damaged. You can match the dry cone stiffness by feeling the flex of the undamaged cone and comparing to the repaired one. The best part is that you will be adding very little additional weight to do this. I hope this is of interest. Best regards Moray James. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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