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Oris 150's have arrived !


Rudy81

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Arash,

I totally agree.  I still use my TB 1808s and love the sound.  I have heard the AER drivers in Oris150 horns, but that was a long time ago.  I wish I could do an A/B comparison with AER, Lowther and the TB drivers.  So far, have not had the opportunity.

 

I am always amazed at how well the TBs perform in those horns.  You just can't beat the performance at that price.

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Rudy today I just assembled the Oris 150 horn. sorry I'm not trying to hijack your thread but i thought maybe it's better to post the pictures here to keep everything about Oris horn concentrated :)  I hope you are O.K with that.

 

the driver I used is a Tang Band 1772.

 

 

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No problem at all. Keep the pictures and comments coming.

 

BTW, when you do your listening tests, try listening both with and without the back cover on the chamber.  Let me know which you prefer.

 

thanks,

 

sure I'll let you know ;)

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Arash I would love to hear what you think about these and how they compare to (bruce edgar) tractrix you have made and used with BMS 4592nd-mid. It's a little apples and oranges situation but I still think there can be comparisons made.

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  • 2 months later...

hey guys :)

the first speaker out of three is done here so we can sit and hear some music. it's a Klipschorn bassbin with Bob's 1526C. TangBand 1772 is used behind the Oris 150 horn. the horn has no high pass filter but the woofer has it's own low pass @ 250hz 2nd order.

this one-eyed monster sounds dynamic, detailed, immediate.

Khorns bases are raw BB plywood. they are going to be veneered soon.

 

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Edited by Arash
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"Stereolab of Germany uses artifical stone for horns. it's some kind of very high density cement. they have no ringing of metal horns but I don't like to listen to a absolutely dense horn.

 

So, you like the sound of a horn ringing?

 

I feel those horns cause beaming and maybe honkiness."

 

Not true at all.

 

"maybe I'm wrong but it's what I feel. "

 

GMAFB

 

"wood or ABS are better IMO. "

 

The ABS rings. A heavy primer coat and top coat will help damp them.

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Notes from the engineer from Orca design:

 

http://www.orcadesign.com/

 

All of the Klipsch SMC parts look to be injection molded plastic.

My guess is that it is common lowest cost HIPS, ABS or polypropylene with a 20% loading of talc (magnesium silicate), calcium carbonate or mica.Talc is the most widely used. Calcium carbonate is the heaviest.

Wollastonite mineral additive is the premium upgrade over talc and is widely used for automotive interior trim because it has the highest scratch resistance and best impact strength.

Several stone heavy plastic cabinets like B&W and POLK are made from molded "thermoset resin" loaded with glass spheres and calcium carbonate.This material is called "polyester bulk molding compound".

It is somewhat similar to Bondo but with better flow, higher plastic content and much finer particles to improve strength and toughness.It is also used in rotational molding and centrifugal casting.

You also see this material in plastic electrical outlet box.

Wilson Audio makes their cabinets from "paper stone" which is phenolic impregnated paper board.

Phenolic impregnated MDF and plywood are also available.

http://www.paperstoneproducts.com/

http://www.tchweb.com/tchstore/category/zyply/s0/510---Zyply.html

http://www.extira.com/

 

You have seen, "cultured marble" in counter tops, sinks and bath tubs.

polyester resin + marble dust

It is heavy and stiff but damping is too low.

All of these artificial stone products are a polyester resin base with added mineral fillers, stone aggregate, sand, garnet, granite dust, glass beads or glass fibers.

Combining different size, different density fillers can tune the damping.

To increase damping they can also add polyethylene fibers, flakes or beads.

Back in the 1980's I did a polyester resin prototype with 3M hollow glass micro-ballons and was amazed at the light weight and very high stiffness, totally dead plus it was tough enough to take a drywall screw without cracking.

Yes, also looked into it again around 1997 in a polyester resin + polyester regrind bulk molding compound - same stuff as those blue AC electricity wall boxes.

However, decided it was too expensive and ended up with the cheapest high impact polystyrene.

 

Had a contractor at my house who was doing some moldings of architectural details for my sisters house. I showed him my K402's and he said he could mold them easily and make them look like almost any wood. I then asked him if we could make speaker cabinets out of this material and he said sure... He then ask me If I wanted to go into business marketing what he can do. There are some crazy technologies out there in this area. From putting holograms in floors, to resins that look like wood, metal or stone.

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Very cool, as usual, Arash.

 

thanks :)

 

Very cool looking, I actually like the wood grain on them.

 

thanks. :)  yes that veneer look fantastic.

I wonder how a Fostex 206En would sound in those?

we have 206EN here and we tested. some folks liked it and some voted for TB-1772. both perform well in this horn but I prefer Tang-Band myself. AER and Lowther are the better choice but they cost an arm and a leg. Beyma has released 12P80ND-V2. I'm gonna test it behind this horn at a mid-bass. if it sounds good enough I may consider building a big multi-way horn. something like Cessaro Beta I or Gamma I :)

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you are entitled to your own opinion but you seem to imply that there is some sort of gross disparity in the selling price and the value of the materials used. I don't know how you can make such a comparison it seems so totally unrealistic and disconnected from reality to me. You could go take a look at John Inlow's site he will show you for free how to make a quality horn out of paper and glue. John will also sell you a pair, he makes them for sale but that will cost you a little bit more. Klipsch will sell you a set of K402 same kind of size same kind of price range as the Oris. Of course you can make a set yourself but probably not near as good or as well on your first attempt or so. Value added is what you pay for when you buy something not just the bits that make it. To suggest that the horn in question is only worth $40.00 in materials is not realistic but that's just my opinion.

John Inlow

http://www.inlowsound.com/

Edited by moray james
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I understand and no I did not think that is what you meant but I think that you are placing a very unrealistic and low value on materials labour and profit margin and that is why I suggested you build something and get an idea of what it takes to produce at that level of quality not to mention the effort and cost in resources and time to establish a reputation to support the sales price. I think that John selling his basic horns at $1000.00 is a steal. I would take his paper horn over a plastic resin horn any day if that was what I was after. I have built a fair amount of stuff over the years but for me most of my building is a means to an end as like you suggested the high price of admission of some products was usually just not possible for me. I suppose building has given me a different insight and an appreciation for a quality finished product. The smaller the manufacturing enterprise the higher the overheads and overall costs no economy of scale exists. You have not replied about Klipsch and what they charge for a K402 is that a horrible rip off too? Try going to a local machine shop and see what they would charge to build you something like the speaker in question.

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I don't wanna dispute here. that horn is made of 40$ worth of PVC but consider the cost of a huge aluminum mold weighting ~740kg and also the cost of machining. I wanted to build it myself but even in a 3rd world country it would cost 15000USD. after all having a huge aluminum mold is something and precisely vacuum-forming PVC on it and die-cutting the edges is another thing. I found a company that builds planes vacuum-forming parts for Homa (Iran's biggest airliner). if I had the mold they would cost me at least 100USD for each horn with best result guarantee. on the other hand when you assemble this horn yourself you'll know the fact that horn itself without back chamber and driver mounting ring parts is totally useless. and if you ask me Bert job is awesome in piecing together everything 128fs318181.gif just my two cents

Edited by Arash
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