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Well, THAT was interesting...Receiver went "out-to-lunch" for a while!

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Does it have a bypass for 2 channel stereo, and guessing the fronts are what 150 wpc?

Remote is probably $150 also, if you can get them...

Now I know your weight, but not any age...lol

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Well, I got a call from the lab today: They've determined the problem with the receiver: It needs a new DSP board. Total cost is $530, labor included. The bad part: Pioneer said 60+ days delivery on the part. I had already decided before I took it in for repair that if the repair exceeded $1,000, that I would not repair it and simply replace it with a more modern receiver. However, $530 to regain status quo is fine by me. So I paid it and now we wait however long it takes. The guy said, in many cases, they receive parts faster than they are told. He thinks the factory simply issues their worst-case scenario when asked. Let's hope for the best. Fingers-crossed! -Glenn

> PS: Billybob: On this receiver all channels are rated at 130 Watts RMS @ 8 ohms from 20-20k Hz with all channels driven. It's the same for two-channel mode.

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Did you see what a USED one cost?

sanchopanza: I didn't consider a used unit because I now know what is wrong with this one (unlike the unknown problems a used one might have, if any) and would prefer to simply fix the one we already own. That way I know what I am getting. However, thank you for your suggestion! -Glenn

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Admin: Please delete this duplicate post. Thanks! -Glenn

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All channels driven and $380 for a remote...afraid to ask any thing more.

Finger crossed

Thanks

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All channels driven and $380 for a remote...afraid to ask any thing more.

Finger crossed

Thanks

I'm one of the lucky ones: My remote still works fine. I rarely use it as I have a URC remote that duplicates most of the controls for all of my theater equipment and lighting. -Glenn

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My remote would lock-up once in a while. I took it apart and found four brass tabs that would hold pressure against a plate. I soldered all four of those contact points and the thing's been fine ever since. Since that system doesn't get used alot I took the batteries out.

Edited by Mighty Favog

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My remote would lock-up once in a while. I took it apart and found four brass tabs that would hold pressure against a plate. I soldered all four of those contact points and the thing's green fine ever since. Since that system doesn't get used alot I took the batteries out.

Mighty Favog: Hey, thanks for the great tip. Hopefully I'll never have to use it, but if I do, now I know thanks to you! Yes, battery removal when not being used is a MUST because that remote has about a one-month idle power-drain on those 4 AA batteries and if left unattended after they've died, they will soon begin to leak into the battery compartment: Another great tip for others! -Glenn

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It's not been quite one month yet since the lab got the rig, so we may be at about the half-way point to a new DSP board arriving from Japan. Fingers still crossed. It seems like forever! :( -Glenn

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Well, I got a call from the lab today: They've determined the problem with the receiver: It needs a new DSP board. Total cost is $530, labor included. The bad part: Pioneer said 60+ days delivery on the part.

That sucks. Hopefully you will get your reciever back online. My two-channel Denon DRA-397 reciever that I use for my outdoor rig recently took a dump. It would play audio, then get all scratchy/staticy and such. Basically just sound like complete crap. After 'googling' the issue, it seems that the DSP board in my unit also went bad. I still need to call Denon and find out if this thing is worth getting repaired. It was a $500 reciever brand-new, so if it costs more than say $300 to repair it, I will end up junking it and perhaps get one of those Emotiva two-channel integrated deals or something similiar. In the meantime, I cannibalized my Cambridge Audio Azure 640A integrated amp from my basement two-channel rig (which is dismantled until I get off my *** and do the renevations that are so desperately needed down there).

However, on the flip-side I have a Denon AVR3802 in my main rig that is going on 10 years or so that is still working like the day I first brought it home. Granted, I am using outboard amplification, but still. Probably what will actually happen with regards to the two-channel reciever is that I am looking to upgrade my AVR3802 to a newer pre/pro and then repurpose the 3802 for the outdoor rig (and just leave it in "direct stereo" mode), since it is only just the two AWR-650 "rock" speakers out there. I would like to put the Cambridge Audio unit back in the dedicated two-channel rig. Still would like to see what it would take to repair that Denon DRA-397 reciever.

And speaking of my HT rig. I did have an "oh-$#!+" moment with regards to that a couple years ago. The left front channel quit working one evening. After much investigation, including even dismantaling that RF-7 speaker to make sure that something inside did not work itself loose), it turned out that I popped a fuse on that channel in the amp. A quick trip to the rat shack and a couple of bucks later to get a new fuse, got it back on line. I think what happened was that I had to move that speaker as I was replacing the window right there (part of a full renavation of the exterior of the house), and then having to repaint the window trim. While moving the speaker, may have accidently shorted the connection and caused the fuse to pop (I should've made sure the amp was powered off.). At least tha was a simple fix, and I keep a couple of spare fuses on hand in case something like that happens again in the future.

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skonopa: As part of my Klipsch Reference Series 7.1 HT system, I have the RSW-15 sub, which I've LOVED ever since I un-crated it in 2004. But, the one thing with it that I have discovered over the years is that the sub is extremely sensitive to transients and power-losses, so much, in fact, that it tends to blow it's fuse, nearly every time I make an absent-minded mistake such as powering down my AC Line Conditioner BEFORE I switch off the power switch on the sub. Or, if I switch on the sub BEFORE I power up my AC Line Conditioner. Therefore, I too have a bag of fuses from Radio Shack for my sub. It's a good thing they sell them 5 to the bag! LOL

BIG TIP FOR YOU TECHIES: And here's the thing that puzzles many people about these special, "Slo-Blo" fuses: Unlike the traditional glass buss fuses that contain only a tapered piece of metal foil inside, these fuses also have windings in them. And guess what? Taking a continuity reading on them with a VOM will NOT tell you if the fuse it bad, because it will many times still read that the circuit is intact! In order to see if the fuse is the problem, simply substitute the new fuse into the sub for the old one. If the sub works, throw the old fuse away! Not knowing this a couple of years ago had me chasing my own tail for a couple of hours one day!

Still sitting here waiting from my DSP board to arrive at the lab from Japan! "Ho-hum".... -Glenn

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I thought that most subs recomend NOT plugging them into a power strip/line conditioner rather directly to the wall socket.

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I thought that most subs recomend NOT plugging them into a power strip/line conditioner rather directly to the wall socket.

CECAA850: And, while you may very well be right (I've run my RSW-15 both ways and to no detriment), I now prefer to have the added protection of a line conditioner, knowing how much it would cost to replace my sub should something happen to the power line. Thanks! -Glenn

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Well, well, two months, almost to the day: The lab called yesterday and the DSP Board came in from Pioneer in Japan last week and the receiver was ready to be picked up. So I brought it home and it is sitting on my wet bar waiting for my best friend to come over after work today so he and I can hoist this 70-pound monster back into the top slot of my equipment rack so I can hook it back up. There will probably be beer involved..... AFTERWARDS!!! Wish me luck! -Glenn

post-10177-1381986111446_thumb.jpg

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Front Pioneer Elite VSX-49TXi

post-10177-138198611178_thumb.jpg

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Rack: Masking tape is holding IR control flooder wires out of the way.

post-10177-1381986112108_thumb.jpg

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The Lab returned the bad board to me and installed the new one. The bad DSP board is shown below (bad coil). There was also a bad Pico fuse that had to be replaced and some IC's needed to be re-flowed on the DSP3 board.

post-10177-1381986112432_thumb.jpg

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