dolbyscat Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 Any of the tech wizards here know what is inside a psu (iGroove hg) . Mine has died again for the 3rd time, surely the components can't be unusual or non replaceable....can they....or are the parts within potted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dolbyscat Posted August 30, 2013 Author Share Posted August 30, 2013 Well here is a part of the question answered, got the dremel out and split thebox. Anyone got any knowledge to glean from these innard shots? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dolbyscat Posted August 30, 2013 Author Share Posted August 30, 2013 And the bottom... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babadono Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 The round red component on the lower right is a fuse. Is it still good? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dolbyscat Posted August 30, 2013 Author Share Posted August 30, 2013 I will certainly check it....thanks, that's a start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 Hard to tell from the pic but in the second pic, on the left by "R34B", is that component burned? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dolbyscat Posted August 30, 2013 Author Share Posted August 30, 2013 fuse is good.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dolbyscat Posted August 30, 2013 Author Share Posted August 30, 2013 Hard to tell from the pic but in the second pic, on the left by "R34B", is that component burned? Sure looks like it could be, is there a way for me to test it...any idea as to what it is?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mongo171 Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 Hard to tell from the pic but in the second pic, on the left by "R34B", is that component burned? That is R34B. Looks a little toasty. dolbyscat, how are your soldering skills? Ever do Surface Mount? I would take a DVM and measure across that resistor. Or, you can use something like a dental pick and LIGHTLY pick at the center of R34B to see if it falls apart. I have no idea what value it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djk Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 It's a 2.7K resistor and I doubt anything is wrong with it. It is actually three of the same in parallel. Check BD1 (bridge rectifier). Being a switchmode supply, I would guess it may be tough to troubleshoot without the schematic. I would replace it with a linear supply and be done with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dolbyscat Posted August 30, 2013 Author Share Posted August 30, 2013 Hard to tell from the pic but in the second pic, on the left by "R34B", is that component burned? That is R34B. Looks a little toasty. dolbyscat, how are your soldering skills? Ever do Surface Mount? I would take a DVM and measure across that resistor. Or, you can use something like a dental pick and LIGHTLY pick at the center of R34B to see if it falls apart. I have no idea what value it is. Seems the component at R34B is not burnt, looks more like just the flux from the solder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dolbyscat Posted August 30, 2013 Author Share Posted August 30, 2013 It's a 2.7K resistor and I doubt anything is wrong with it. It is actually three of the same in parallel. Check BD1 (bridge rectifier). Being a switchmode supply, I would guess it may be tough to troubleshoot without the schematic. I would replace it with a linear supply and be done with it. Yes I am probably getting out of my depth here..I can use my meter to check for an open circuit, or the ohms of a speaker, but thats about it. I tried to check the voltage out of this at the four pin plug but it was a bit tight, the only thing I discovered was that there was current coming out of it, as it arced as I touched it. supposed to be 18v....but I couldn't verify it. So are you saying I could find a different more reliable replacement power supply? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djk Posted August 31, 2013 Share Posted August 31, 2013 "So are you saying I could find a different more reliable replacement power supply?" Sure. What voltage and current does it supply? (call the factory) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dolbyscat Posted August 31, 2013 Author Share Posted August 31, 2013 The psu in question output is +18v & -18v, 1 amp, for a Klipsch iGroove, unfortunately they are no longer available, hence the attempt to repair. It of course also has a proprietory 4 pin plug in connector..... . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dolbyscat Posted August 31, 2013 Author Share Posted August 31, 2013 The psu in question output is +18v & -18v, 1 amp, for a Klipsch iGroove, unfortunately they are no longer available, hence the attempt to repair. It of course also has a proprietory 4 pin plug in connector..... . DJK is right - just replace it with a linear. Sure, your connector is not a simple two pin, because the device needs pos and neg supply. But you can remove the power cable from this PSU and use it on a new linear supply. I suspect the connections would be +V and -V and GND with the last one unused. I couldn't see where the cord enters the PSU, but that should not be hard to get clear. Ask Klipsch for the schematic, or to tell you which wire is which. As an example, you can use something like THIS by adding a small line transformer to get the ~32V input. EDIT: This is a bit of overkill, but gives you some idea of what to look for in a transformer. It's also pricey at $17. But, use it as an example. http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70218222#tab=specs So, for around $45 at the top end, you could have a new linear supply. Thanks "mdeneen" and everyone else for the input regarding my lack of output, I think the new linear supply looks the way to go after a little research of my own. Now I know this might seem sacriligeous...but... I have another i-Pod dock where the psu is ok but the dock itself is toast...the problem??.....It bears the name B@$e....lol...It also bears the same model # and seems to be identical except for the four pin plug...Funnily enough it was my wife who reminded me she still had this unit, it never even crossed my mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djk Posted September 1, 2013 Share Posted September 1, 2013 Regulator http://www.ebay.com/itm/110983403294?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 Transformers http://www.ebay.com/itm/Triad-F-263U-Power-transformer-115-VAC-30-VCT-2-amp-NEW-NOS-tube-audio-ham-radio-/181206246667?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item2a30bbe50b http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Sig-Trans-LP-30-115-230V-to-15-30V-PCB-Transformers-/200885023946?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ec5ae34ca http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toroid-Power-Transformer-110VAC-To-30VCT-w-Power-Supply-Audio-Amplifier-/321197827788?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item4ac8e1e6cc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mboxler Posted September 1, 2013 Share Posted September 1, 2013 HI I'm not sure if you are into DIY, or would like to learn, but GlassWare has a kit... http://glass-ware.stores.yahoo.net/psbilops.html It doesn't mention the max amp draw, but perhaps you could e-mail John Broskie and ask him if it will work. It appears to require a CT transformer, so cost could be prohibitive. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dolbyscat Posted September 1, 2013 Author Share Posted September 1, 2013 I agree, dosn;t look like I could go wrong there....order two at that price , then I'm set for life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dolbyscat Posted September 1, 2013 Author Share Posted September 1, 2013 . HI I'm not sure if you are into DIY, or would like to learn, but GlassWare has a kit... http://glass-ware.stores.yahoo.net/psbilops.html It doesn't mention the max amp draw, but perhaps you could e-mail John Broskie and ask him if it will work. It appears to require a CT transformer, so cost could be prohibitive. Mike Not sure my soldering skills are up to that required for a kit, but i will sure look into it....thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Achlles Posted September 17, 2013 Share Posted September 17, 2013 Can you tell me what 'switiching' vs 'linear' means? I am not sure what all the gubbins in the PSU do... There are four wires coming out of the PSU - Two black, which I assume are just negative. One red which is 18v positive, I assume. Then a blue one... If I cut the blue wire, do I explode? Or enter the matrix... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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