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KP 250 II help


snailtrax

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KP-250 II A Heresy HD Industrial 2 round ports Void free plywood 65-20k +/-3db 102 250 watts (33v) 125 8 ohms 4.4 min @ 230Hz 2.5 a K-792-KP 129064 127123 90x40 Exponential 7000 700 KP2.5D 116408 KP-66-E 128014 127119 16 ohm K-701 130005 K-42-KP 121240 K-42-EPK 21 13/16 x 15 7/8 x 13 1/4 49 862

KP-250 II B (no hardware) Heresy HD Industrial 2 round ports 2.5 a KP2.5D 116408 KP-66E 128014 K-42-KP 121240 K-42-EPK B/ W,R 834/894

Ok, I know this reads like hell, this is cut/paste from my spreadsheet about Klipsch pro. 128014 IS the correct vendor number fo the KP66E mid driver 16 ohms is correct. Horn looks a bit odd but has the round cutout and they used a 'shorter' K701 horn on the KSM12 monitors about this same era. I'd say you're dead nuts stock there. HOW DO THEY SOUND??

If anything is blown or raspy sounding, replacement diaphragms are available from Klipsch or PE in the case of the mid driver. You don't need titanium, that's not what the network is voiced for. See that little orange disk cap on the network (in the middle) - that's the KLIP circuit that cuts off if the tweeter line gets close to overload. Back off the juice, it cools off and opens back up. Like an automatic circuit breaker but I've seen em blown up entirely. Easy fix, they have them at Parts Express. Easy Beasy.

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take those light bulbs out of there, replace any burnt diaphragms and you have a pair of $400- $450 KP250II right there. Get the corners from Parts Express, router off the edges of cabinet and attach those and you have the 'A' models pretty much. If you add a handle to the top and a pole cup to bottom, find the center of gravity by balancing the speaker on a 1/4" dowel rod and noting where the balance point is- that's the center of your pole cup and where the handle part goes. Again Parts Express has all this stuff, just like stock. Also I put their big rubber Penn Elcon feet on, makes them less likely to dance off the sub cabinet. They're about 3/4 thick 1 1/4 round, with a recessed washer - use #10x3/4 pan head screw to attach to cabinet.

Michael

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take a piece of masking tape about 6" long - fold it into little triangle (like you'd fold a flag) - run numerous ones of these around that voice coil gap until any little bits of old burnt voice coil are out - you want that gap totally clean. When you insert the new one and are tightening down the screws, I like to run a little music through there, just to make sure the voice coil is centered up perfectly, and tighten the screws down (if there are a lot of them like on the midrange) in weird order like you do when you tighten lug nuts on a wheel. Take it easy on the speaker the first couple hours. That's it! You've earned SPEAKER REPAIR MERIT BADGE!!!!

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In a pro speaker, there may be some black goop in there, that's ferrofluid, which transfers heat from voice coil to the magnet for cooling. Leave that in there unless the voice coil has totally exploded and you know there's gotta be debris in there as well. It's very costly and really not necessary to replace unless you're going to hit it very hard. Might be in the K792, not sure it's been a while for me.

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  • 3 months later...

Hi.. I'm new to this forum.. I just wanna ask some questions cause I have the KP-250-C2 with 2 fuse holder and 2 neutrik connection but no 5 way binding post and I was just wondering if the diaphragm in the mid will fit if i put it in KLF-30? cause I heard that the KP-250-C2 has the TI mid.. I have the same diaphragms shown in the picture and will it be better if i change the horn on the tweeter on the KLF from the KP, cause the KLF doesn't have the tractrix horn like the one on KP-250-C2? thank you guys.. I will really appreciate some info...

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I finally ordered new mid and tweeter diaphragms and got them installed. The 250's sound great. They make excellent yard speakers and I ran them off of the tiny TDA7297 chip amp without mods. I am modding one of the amps I bought with parts that rhing recommended, and when I am finished I will do a build thread with a few pics. Bill

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