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KP 250 II help


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#41 colterphoto1

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Posted 26 September 2013 - 05:28 PM

networks and tweeters look stock.

How do they sound?

M
Klipsch-wise: Jubilees in the Gallery Khorns on standby LS (cane grilles, custom DeanG networks, making them some of the sweetest sounding LS on the planet) CW/ KLF-C7 Hearth Room HT forte II home office icon WB 14 bedroom KP682/362 w/ KSM2, KSM12II PA system MCM 4 way restored / K201 - Workshop LSI-BG split x 5 / KP250 outdoor HT KP301 'truck' midi sized PA KP262, KP110, KP172, HIP - extra pro stuff KP600 system being slowly restored RB5II Oak, HOO (cane), HBR, HD reveneered walnut - just laying around

#42 colterphoto1

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Posted 26 September 2013 - 05:34 PM

KP-250 II A Heresy HD Industrial 2 round ports Void free plywood 65-20k +/-3db 102 250 watts (33v) 125 8 ohms 4.4 min @ 230Hz 2.5 a K-792-KP 129064 127123 90x40 Exponential 7000 700 KP2.5D 116408 KP-66-E 128014 127119 16 ohm K-701 130005 K-42-KP 121240 K-42-EPK 21 13/16 x 15 7/8 x 13 1/4 49 862
KP-250 II B (no hardware) Heresy HD Industrial 2 round ports 2.5 a KP2.5D 116408 KP-66E 128014 K-42-KP 121240 K-42-EPK B/ W,R 834/894



Ok, I know this reads like hell, this is cut/paste from my spreadsheet about Klipsch pro. 128014 IS the correct vendor number fo the KP66E mid driver 16 ohms is correct. Horn looks a bit odd but has the round cutout and they used a 'shorter' K701 horn on the KSM12 monitors about this same era. I'd say you're dead nuts stock there. HOW DO THEY SOUND??



If anything is blown or raspy sounding, replacement diaphragms are available from Klipsch or PE in the case of the mid driver. You don't need titanium, that's not what the network is voiced for. See that little orange disk cap on the network (in the middle) - that's the KLIP circuit that cuts off if the tweeter line gets close to overload. Back off the juice, it cools off and opens back up. Like an automatic circuit breaker but I've seen em blown up entirely. Easy fix, they have them at Parts Express. Easy Beasy.

Klipsch-wise: Jubilees in the Gallery Khorns on standby LS (cane grilles, custom DeanG networks, making them some of the sweetest sounding LS on the planet) CW/ KLF-C7 Hearth Room HT forte II home office icon WB 14 bedroom KP682/362 w/ KSM2, KSM12II PA system MCM 4 way restored / K201 - Workshop LSI-BG split x 5 / KP250 outdoor HT KP301 'truck' midi sized PA KP262, KP110, KP172, HIP - extra pro stuff KP600 system being slowly restored RB5II Oak, HOO (cane), HBR, HD reveneered walnut - just laying around

#43 colterphoto1

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Posted 26 September 2013 - 05:38 PM

take those light bulbs out of there, replace any burnt diaphragms and you have a pair of $400- $450 KP250II right there. Get the corners from Parts Express, router off the edges of cabinet and attach those and you have the 'A' models pretty much. If you add a handle to the top and a pole cup to bottom, find the center of gravity by balancing the speaker on a 1/4" dowel rod and noting where the balance point is- that's the center of your pole cup and where the handle part goes. Again Parts Express has all this stuff, just like stock. Also I put their big rubber Penn Elcon feet on, makes them less likely to dance off the sub cabinet. They're about 3/4 thick 1 1/4 round, with a recessed washer - use #10x3/4 pan head screw to attach to cabinet.


Michael
Klipsch-wise: Jubilees in the Gallery Khorns on standby LS (cane grilles, custom DeanG networks, making them some of the sweetest sounding LS on the planet) CW/ KLF-C7 Hearth Room HT forte II home office icon WB 14 bedroom KP682/362 w/ KSM2, KSM12II PA system MCM 4 way restored / K201 - Workshop LSI-BG split x 5 / KP250 outdoor HT KP301 'truck' midi sized PA KP262, KP110, KP172, HIP - extra pro stuff KP600 system being slowly restored RB5II Oak, HOO (cane), HBR, HD reveneered walnut - just laying around

#44 snailtrax

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Posted 26 September 2013 - 06:36 PM

I didn't even hook them up. All four diaphragms are either burned or missing. Both woofers have 5.3 ohms so I am assuming they are good. Are you saying that I want phenolic instead of titanium? Where can these be sourced? Bill


Main System: Mitsubishi 73" DLP, Pioneer VSX-1121-K, Samsung BluRay, cable box, Carver C-1 Preamp, Carver M1.0t amp, Chorus II fronts, Academy center, Forte II rears, Lab 12 Tapped horn subwoofer

Yard System: Klipsch KP 320 and a little T amp, KP 250 II and a little T amp

For sale: Epic CF-3 black version 1, 80's Lascala pair with Crites caps, Black Quartets, JBL L56, Pioneer HPM 100, JBL J216a, Four Klipsch KPT 100, Energy Take 5 Classic 5.1 set with 10" Energy sub

#45 colterphoto1

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Posted 26 September 2013 - 11:55 PM

that 66 is a driver sold by Parts Express, and they have the replacement diaphragm. You can get the tweeter diaphragms from Klipsch OEM. I'd not put titanium in. Looks like you got a driver apart ok, have you replaced diaphragms before?

Klipsch-wise: Jubilees in the Gallery Khorns on standby LS (cane grilles, custom DeanG networks, making them some of the sweetest sounding LS on the planet) CW/ KLF-C7 Hearth Room HT forte II home office icon WB 14 bedroom KP682/362 w/ KSM2, KSM12II PA system MCM 4 way restored / K201 - Workshop LSI-BG split x 5 / KP250 outdoor HT KP301 'truck' midi sized PA KP262, KP110, KP172, HIP - extra pro stuff KP600 system being slowly restored RB5II Oak, HOO (cane), HBR, HD reveneered walnut - just laying around

#46 snailtrax

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Posted 27 September 2013 - 02:00 AM

I took these part. That's the first time for me. Are there any tricks of the trade? Gonna call Klipsch today.


Main System: Mitsubishi 73" DLP, Pioneer VSX-1121-K, Samsung BluRay, cable box, Carver C-1 Preamp, Carver M1.0t amp, Chorus II fronts, Academy center, Forte II rears, Lab 12 Tapped horn subwoofer

Yard System: Klipsch KP 320 and a little T amp, KP 250 II and a little T amp

For sale: Epic CF-3 black version 1, 80's Lascala pair with Crites caps, Black Quartets, JBL L56, Pioneer HPM 100, JBL J216a, Four Klipsch KPT 100, Energy Take 5 Classic 5.1 set with 10" Energy sub

#47 colterphoto1

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Posted 27 September 2013 - 04:00 AM

take a piece of masking tape about 6" long - fold it into little triangle (like you'd fold a flag) - run numerous ones of these around that voice coil gap until any little bits of old burnt voice coil are out - you want that gap totally clean. When you insert the new one and are tightening down the screws, I like to run a little music through there, just to make sure the voice coil is centered up perfectly, and tighten the screws down (if there are a lot of them like on the midrange) in weird order like you do when you tighten lug nuts on a wheel. Take it easy on the speaker the first couple hours. That's it! You've earned SPEAKER REPAIR MERIT BADGE!!!!
Klipsch-wise: Jubilees in the Gallery Khorns on standby LS (cane grilles, custom DeanG networks, making them some of the sweetest sounding LS on the planet) CW/ KLF-C7 Hearth Room HT forte II home office icon WB 14 bedroom KP682/362 w/ KSM2, KSM12II PA system MCM 4 way restored / K201 - Workshop LSI-BG split x 5 / KP250 outdoor HT KP301 'truck' midi sized PA KP262, KP110, KP172, HIP - extra pro stuff KP600 system being slowly restored RB5II Oak, HOO (cane), HBR, HD reveneered walnut - just laying around

#48 colterphoto1

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Posted 27 September 2013 - 04:01 AM

In a pro speaker, there may be some black goop in there, that's ferrofluid, which transfers heat from voice coil to the magnet for cooling. Leave that in there unless the voice coil has totally exploded and you know there's gotta be debris in there as well. It's very costly and really not necessary to replace unless you're going to hit it very hard. Might be in the K792, not sure it's been a while for me.

Klipsch-wise: Jubilees in the Gallery Khorns on standby LS (cane grilles, custom DeanG networks, making them some of the sweetest sounding LS on the planet) CW/ KLF-C7 Hearth Room HT forte II home office icon WB 14 bedroom KP682/362 w/ KSM2, KSM12II PA system MCM 4 way restored / K201 - Workshop LSI-BG split x 5 / KP250 outdoor HT KP301 'truck' midi sized PA KP262, KP110, KP172, HIP - extra pro stuff KP600 system being slowly restored RB5II Oak, HOO (cane), HBR, HD reveneered walnut - just laying around

#49 kupay0910

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Posted 02 January 2014 - 06:01 PM

Hi.. I'm new to this forum.. I just wanna ask some questions cause I have the KP-250-C2 with 2 fuse holder and 2 neutrik connection but no 5 way binding post and I was just wondering if the diaphragm in the mid will fit if i put it in KLF-30? cause I heard that the KP-250-C2 has the TI mid.. I have the same diaphragms shown in the picture and will it be better if i change the horn on the tweeter on the KLF from the KP, cause the KLF doesn't have the tractrix horn like the one on KP-250-C2? thank you guys.. I will really appreciate some info...



#50 snailtrax

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Posted 02 January 2014 - 07:26 PM

I finally ordered new mid and tweeter diaphragms and got them installed. The 250's sound great. They make excellent yard speakers and I ran them off of the tiny TDA7297 chip amp without mods. I am modding one of the amps I bought with parts that rhing recommended, and when I am finished I will do a build thread with a few pics. Bill


Main System: Mitsubishi 73" DLP, Pioneer VSX-1121-K, Samsung BluRay, cable box, Carver C-1 Preamp, Carver M1.0t amp, Chorus II fronts, Academy center, Forte II rears, Lab 12 Tapped horn subwoofer

Yard System: Klipsch KP 320 and a little T amp, KP 250 II and a little T amp

For sale: Epic CF-3 black version 1, 80's Lascala pair with Crites caps, Black Quartets, JBL L56, Pioneer HPM 100, JBL J216a, Four Klipsch KPT 100, Energy Take 5 Classic 5.1 set with 10" Energy sub