Jump to content

La Scala II measurements/plans


adobephoto

Recommended Posts

Heres a pic I found online of the LSII with the back off

LA-SCALA-II---1.jpg

So the LS2 has a removable back? If so it would make it very easy to make a new cabinet! I like the sealed upper horn area and banana plugs.

Edited by ellisr63
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm almost embarrassed to show this but I've been wanting to look at this anyway so I took out the woofers on my 1976 LaScalas. This wood has really shrunk... see the separation in the middle? I'm thinking some silicon caulking, maybe even some backer rod, should take care of this. I can't imagine this opening has been good for the smooth flow of air!

post-36269-0-59200000-1383450160_thumb.j

post-36269-0-07840000-1383450169_thumb.j

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm almost embarrassed to show this but I've been wanting to look at this anyway so I took out the woofers on my 1976 LaScalas. This wood has really shrunk... see the separation in the middle? I'm thinking some silicon caulking, maybe even some backer rod, should take care of this. I can't imagine this opening has been good for the smooth flow of air!

Loctite PL premium polyurethane is what I used on my THT builds. It expands to fill voids. Once dry, you can cut off the excess. Perhaps that or something along those lines would work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm almost embarrassed to show this but I've been wanting to look at this anyway so I took out the woofers on my 1976 LaScalas. This wood has really shrunk... see the separation in the middle? I'm thinking some silicon caulking, maybe even some backer rod, should take care of this. I can't imagine this opening has been good for the smooth flow of air!

I can't believe the difference the splitter on the '76 compared to the one on my '80. Mine really is one piece and looks like a ripped 2x2 for sure. The attached pic still has all the cobwebs and sawdust from where I am doing the ported bass mod.

Bruce

post-5045-0-58660000-1383484756_thumb.jp

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm almost embarrassed to show this but I've been wanting to look at this anyway so I took out the woofers on my 1976 LaScalas. This wood has really shrunk... see the separation in the middle? I'm thinking some silicon caulking, maybe even some backer rod, should take care of this. I can't imagine this opening has been good for the smooth flow of air!

Loctite PL premium polyurethane is what I used on my THT builds. It expands to fill voids. Once dry, you can cut off the excess. Perhaps that or something along those lines would work.

I had never used this so I decided to give it a try. I left the bead concave since I knew it would expand some. It didn't expand quite as much as I thought it would but I have no complaints. It worked out very well! It beats that expanding gorilla glue that makes such a mess. Thanks for the suggestion!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm almost embarrassed to show this but I've been wanting to look at this anyway so I took out the woofers on my 1976 LaScalas. This wood has really shrunk... see the separation in the middle? I'm thinking some silicon caulking, maybe even some backer rod, should take care of this. I can't imagine this opening has been good for the smooth flow of air!

Loctite PL premium polyurethane is what I used on my THT builds. It expands to fill voids. Once dry, you can cut off the excess. Perhaps that or something along those lines would work.

I had never used this so I decided to give it a try. I left the bead concave since I knew it would expand some. It didn't expand quite as much as I thought it would but I have no complaints. It worked out very well! It beats that expanding gorilla glue that makes such a mess. Thanks for the suggestion!

post-36269-0-28600000-1383947258_thumb.j

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm almost embarrassed to show this but I've been wanting to look at this anyway so I took out the woofers on my 1976 LaScalas. This wood has really shrunk... see the separation in the middle? I'm thinking some silicon caulking, maybe even some backer rod, should take care of this. I can't imagine this opening has been good for the smooth flow of air!

That separation is less important than you might think. The speaker horn is not like the manifold on an engine, so the air doesn't really flow, it just jiggles back and forth to produce sound. There's no air flow as such. The driver is an air shaker, not an air pusher. The actual distance the air moves is barely measurable.

What moves is the sound wave, and the horn shapes the wave.

That said, it couldn't hurt to seal the gap, but since it's only a strip of wood, it would probably be better to just take it out and put in a new piece that's the right size and shape.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Mustang Guy - thanks for the great Sketchup drawing for the 1" La Scala.

All - I'm starting a project to build 3 La Scala cabinets and trying to decide the material to be used using the 1" thick plans. Some have suggested the MDF would resonate less than plywood, however I would think 1" thick Birch plywood (18 Ply) would also not resonate. Certainly the Plywood would be stronger and hold up to assembly screws better than MDF. I understand that the factory went with MDF for the La Scala II's, however I keep thinking the Birch Plywood would be better.

Has anyone built a pair using 1" thick plywood? If so, what are your impressions on sound? Do you think MDF would have been quieter?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am just getting ready to start a 1" LS2 bass bin build, just waiting on a new saw blade to arrive.

I am going to use MDF, as far as the birch handling the screws better i am going to use a Kreg Jig but i think that the glue is what will be doing all the work once it dries.

I will start a thread for it when i do.

Are you planning on just using 1" for the walls or will you do it for the motor board and doghouse.

I havent looked at the plans on this thread to see if they show 1" motor-board, I really need to get Sketch up, but i made calculations based on the 3/4" plans. Do you know if it makes a difference with resonating of the internal walls or if in fact they even do given that they don't have such wide unreinforced spans as the sides.

Good luck with your build

Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm almost embarrassed to show this but I've been wanting to look at this anyway so I took out the woofers on my 1976 LaScalas. This wood has really shrunk... see the separation in the middle? I'm thinking some silicon caulking, maybe even some backer rod, should take care of this. I can't imagine this opening has been good for the smooth flow of air!

That separation is less important than you might think. The speaker horn is not like the manifold on an engine, so the air doesn't really flow, it just jiggles back and forth to produce sound. There's no air flow as such. The driver is an air shaker, not an air pusher. The actual distance the air moves is barely measurable.

What moves is the sound wave, and the horn shapes the wave.

That said, it couldn't hurt to seal the gap, but since it's only a strip of wood, it would probably be better to just take it out and put in a new piece that's the right size and shape.

I agree with Pat. When I was reading the concern, I was thinking to myself that I wouldn't think it would matter because of the size of the split and the size of the wavelengths passing by it.

The longer the wavelength, the less it would see an issue like that. Since this is the woofer bin...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

PBT - I'm going with 1" for all of the pieces/sections. The Sketchup plans can be exploded (parts move apart from each other) and then the dimensioning tool will show all of the board sizes. It uses 1" for all of the pieces except the bottom cover of the doghouse opening which is 3/4" in the plans, I will use 1" for that as well.

I'm just using the free version of Google Sketchup which is fine for this project.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

:-))

Thanks

I have had a morning experimenting with sketchup and Layout!!

I see the plans have 1" internals.

The really cool thing is that i was able to add the measurements in metric, which is a lot easier for those of us "down under"

I notice that the dimensions of the doghouse side walls and roof vary from the 3/4" plans. This will alter the volume of the internal drivers chamber and the length of the horn to a small extent, it is in the final part of its journey but i am not sure if it will make any difference.

Mustang Guy, do you know if this matches the dimensions of the LS2 doghouse??

Or if in fact it will make any difference as i know when i read the paper on the Jubilee there seemed to be a range within which things worked.

Sorry for my use of incorrect terminology, I'm new to this!!

BTW If anyone wants a metric version of the LS2 bass bin exploded with dimension for each of the parts i have it saved as a PDF.

Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

RAFellows,

I have checked everything again and the doghouse sides are 8" as opposed to 7 1/2" and the doghouse roof is 17 1/2" as opposed to 16 3/8".

The motor boards are the same. I think the 1977 3/4" plans would be pretty accurate. Thats why i am still tossing up building that bin but using 1" walls.

What would be REALLY GREAT would be if somebody who has an LS2 bass bin could measure:

  1. The length of the doghouse side wall
  2. The width between the doghouse sidewall and the sidewall of the bass bin (the width of the side passage)
  3. The length of the doghouse roof panel, from the apex at the front to where it joins the doghouse side wall

I notice that in Mustang guys plans, the doghouse roof joins the sidewall on the inside edge, rather than butting up to the end point. The apex of the roof is also at the front edge rather than set back a little.

I think with the measurements above i could get an almost identical copy of the LS2

It would be great for us DIYers to have an accurate set of plans as i know the throat cross sectional area and the driver air chamber need to have just the right ratio. I have seen the formula which is not that hard but trying to work it out myself is beyond my level of skill.

regards

Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...
On 1-10-2013 at 12:32 PM, adobephoto said:

Hi everyone,

I recently picked up a pair of 1987 La Scala I speakers locally. They sound great but a few years ago they were in a flooded basement and the plywood is splitting pretty badly around the bottom and seperating probably beyond repair I would say. The woofers do not appear to have gotten wet at any point though. My uncle owns a high-end kitchen cabinet shop here and said we can rebuild the cabinets no problem. Ive found plenty of blueprints and measurements for the La scala I design but love the way the La scala II cabinets look. I am aware the La scala II cabinet is 1" thick vs 3/4" like my La scala I's are but my uncle said he can get 1" material in HDF or Birch ply and veneer it. Does anyone here have a set of plans for the La scala II cabinet or know the measurements of the two seperate top and bottom cabinets of the La scala II? It would be much appreicated. Also im reading the crossovers are different but would like to upgrade these older crossovers anyhow so was gonna try to either order a pair of La scala II crossovers from klipsch or buy some aftermarket ones that would suit the new cabinets. Thanks for any input. I love the speakers but cant wait to have them not just sounding good but looking good too.

Hey did you ever build them? I am trying to exactly replicate what you are doing :) especially the veneering.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...