Cornwall 2 Crossover Rebuild

[Pete H]

It's time to get back to some projects and get them finished, one of them is to refinish/upgrade my Cornwall 2's and I'm figuring that I should recap the crossovers but I have some questions.

1. Which network is this and is it a stock network? As you will see, it really looks like crap so if this is stock I'm open to suggestions on cleaning this up and making any cost effective upgrades while I'm doing it but the mess where the wires are terminated and the caps are has got to go.

[Pete H]

Here's the goal regarding how clean I want them to look when I'm done. This is what Dean built me for my Cornscalla's, not that I can make them look this good, but you have to shoot for something.

[boom3]

Looks my stock networks, which IIRC are B-3s. The schematic has been posted here several times. I recapped my Corn II networks earlier this year. Replaced all the caps with MKP types-the tweeter and mid caps with WIMAs and the 68 uF woofer shunt with a Solen. The recapping really made no diff to the sound, nor did I expect it to. Recapped for long-term stability, once & done.

Esthetically, I've certainly seen better crossovers than the stock. One caution about replacing inductors. The DCR of the stock inductor should have been factored into the system design. I'd be astounded if Klipsch did not do that given the level of engineering talent (Keele, Gillum, Hunter, Delgado, etc) they've had over the years. Replacing stock inductors with "lower DCR" types may upset the system's alignment. Another reason I leftt my stock inductors in place.

[Deang]

I see the following caps: (2)1.55uF and (1)3uF. So, this would be the standard CII network. I've attached the schematic for you.

I agree with Boom3, do not mess with the coils unless you can find suitable replacements that have near identical DCR.

[Pete H]

Thanks guys! I just ordered the caps and went with the dayton's and barrier strips to clean up the wiring. I'll leave the coils alone but they had electrical tape (it was falling off) wrapped around them so should I wrap them again? I tried to find the marking indicators for the barrier strips (+, -, tweeter, woofer...........) couldn't find any and I know it doesn't matter when I put it back in the cabinet but I think it looks a lot better with them on, any suggestions? Last question would be, is there any reason to replace the auto transformer? Thanks again, just doing this as part of the restoration.

[boom3]

If you know someone who has a Brother label maker, he can make nice-looking lables for the strip. Or, you can make them in Excel and fasten the paper down with cold laminating film. It won't hurt to wrap the coils with fresh tape. That is really to keep the coils together. I'd leave the autoformer alone.

[Pete H]

Thanks again for your help and I'll post pics when I have them done.

[Deang]

You can get some nice labels from Bob for a reasonable price. I have some too that are made for me by Stan Holt. Stan's email is BR928@aol.com - just tell him you want the standard Klipsch labels.

I don't know what to tell you about the autoformer thing. I don't think there is any evidence that changing them out improves the sound, but they may, and I mean may -- provide for lower distortion levels at higher volumes. The new units are really so much better. They are bifilar wound, tight and solid. I've mentioned before about handling older units where the winding is sliding on the core (coming loose). I figure most people are only going to do their crossovers once -- why not go the extra mile? Two new units will run you between $70 and $80 depending on which ones you choose.

[Pete H]

You can get some nice labels from Bob for a reasonable price. I have some too that are made for me by Stan Holt. Stan's email is BR928@aol.com - just tell him you want the standard Klipsch labels.

I don't know what to tell you about the autoformer thing. I don't think there is any evidence that changing them out improves the sound, but they may, and I mean may -- provide for lower distortion levels at higher volumes. The new units are really so much better. They are bifilar wound, tight and solid. I've mentioned before about handling older units where the winding is sliding on the core (coming loose). I figure most people are only going to do their crossovers once -- why not go the extra mile? Two new units will run you between $70 and $80 depending on which ones you choose.

Thanks again Dean. I only want to do these one time so I would rather replace anything that could be or may go bad weather or not there's an improvement I like having the peace of mind. $70 or $80 really doesn't make or break the deal for me so I would rather you just tell me what you would replace them with and I'm fine with that.

[bsacco1]

Pete,

 

Did you ever finish the CAP replacement? I have the exact same crossovers and was wondering what CAPS you used and if it upgraded the sound?

 

Thanks,

bob