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My first table saw for the shop....


Boxx

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I usually try to buy from the local Tool Supply. The owner will tell me if he thinks I'm buying too much tool, but will sell me whatever I want. Rubber foot pad missing on Tool battery charger? Call and take it back, he gives me a new charger. Need something shipped that requires a forklift to unload. Just ask him, then ship it to his shop. He'll unload and store inside until I can get there. Then load it into my truck. For Free. Not sure what you need to do the job? Tell him what you are doing and he probably has the tool. Or will tell you where to get it. Tool repair shop in the back.

:)

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I think good tools know matter what trade you do are important, I have been a mechanic for the last 12 years I and there are some cheap tools I have owned but still own my good quality tools. For the hobbyist I think most can get by with Craftsman, I am not saying you have to buy Snap on but by something that is good quality.

Agreed. I've got a box full of Snap-on stuff. I startes out in automotive and am still in it. I'm not on my tools any more but still have them. Most of my plumbing tools are Rigid.

I've never seen a blade stabilizer before, interesting.

Edited by CECAA850
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Need something shipped that requires a forklift to unload. Just ask him, then ship it to his shop. He'll unload and store inside until I can get there. Then load it into my truck. For Free.

Like speakers? :D

Edited by CECAA850
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I have been very satisfied with this Hitachi saw....

shopping.jpg

Mine is the C12RSH

Looks similar to the one I have (slider version). I was making a frame for a bug screen with it and it didn't quite fit the shape of the hole it was covering. I adjusted it one degree at a time till i had the cut i wanted. It was impressive.

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I had a very talented carpenter at my house a few years ago change out my railings and build a bedroom set that I designed.

He showed me some tricks to get good results, but the big thing was that with wood, the ability to get accurate cuts and square corners is huge. Your results will be much better if the tolerances of your cuts are kept tight.

Related topic. I am drill shopping. I like corded drills. I replaced a B&D last year that had been in service since the 1980's as a driver (with a $40 B&D - seesm to work well so far). I have one cordless Makita and that is fine when I need a quick hole drilled. For big projects, I go with the cords.

Anyone here have a low speed 1/2 drill? I'm looking as Dewalt and Makita. The Dewalt's are built to jump to half speed then variable. Makita does not do this and they are more expensive. The Makitas are also reated as lower amps, but this may be like amplifier because everyone says that they have plenty of power. What do you use a high torque 1/2 drill for other than mixing mortar and drilling in cement? The Makitas seem to be the way to go.

I also need another 3/8 drill and am thinking Makita for that too. I need 3 drills when working, one to drill a hole, one to drill a countersink, and one to drive the screw.

Thanks.

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I need 3 drills when working, one to drill a hole, one to drill a countersink, and one to drive the screw.

I have a 2 piece bit that will drill the countersink and pilot in one shot. The countersink cutter is adjustable up or down the shaft so you can use it with virtually any length screw. It's a real time saver.

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This is not where I bought mine from but THIS is what they look like.

If you have a drill with a quick disconnect, you can use this and really cut your time down.

EDIT, mine is slightly different as I can control the depth of the countersink AND the depth of the pilot independently. I don't know if these will.

Edited by CECAA850
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For a really big slow drill I have a B&D Timberwolf. I have used it to bore big holes in wood as well as mixing thinset in a 5 gal bucket. For drilling wood smaller than 3/4" holes or counterbores I like the fastest 1/2" hand drill I can get my hands on.

I use those same type counter/bits that Carl describes. I installed a doz red oak stair treads on my staircase. I used a 3/8" counterbore/ drill bit combo on all the screw holes first. installed screws, then I plugged all the holes with red oak plugs. Cut them all flush with a wiggle tool. Now you can see the plugs through the stain and varnish which gives it kind of a craftsman quality to the work.

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Glad your doing some research before you purchased, there is no one company that makes a really good model of the most used tools. It always pays to buy quality, for to many years I tried "disposable" tools, junk really, replacing them ends up costing much more in the long run.

Now just be careful, especially with the table saw, use a push block, the lack of the tip of one finger is proof to me how important it is. :(

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As far as blades in general. I have some really nice carbide blades that I have had since the early 1990's that I bought when I bought my table saw. Reshaprening is about $10 to $20 each. I use these for the table saw.

When I buy blades (table or circular saw), I find that the Freud (the red ones) when on sale are quite a bargain (about $7 each last tiem I bought them). I use them as disposible blades and they seem to work very well.

Dado, I don't know. Here are a few that are rated very well on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Oshlun-SDS-0842-8-Inch-Tooth-Stack/dp/B0012YF25Q/ref=pd_cp_hi_1

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-SD208-8-Inch-Professional-Dado/dp/B0000223O9/ref=pd_cp_hi_0

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As far as blades in general. I have some really nice carbide blades that I have had since the early 1990's that I bought when I bought my table saw. Reshaprening is about $10 to $20 each. I use these for the table saw.

When I buy blades (table or circular saw), I find that the Freud (the red ones) when on sale are quite a bargain (about $7 each last tiem I bought them). I use them as disposible blades and they seem to work very well.

Dado, I don't know. Here are a few that are rated very well on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Oshlun-SDS-0842-8-Inch-Tooth-Stack/dp/B0012YF25Q/ref=pd_cp_hi_1

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-SD208-8-Inch-Professional-Dado/dp/B0000223O9/ref=pd_cp_hi_0

These look to be good choices....

My saw is a 10-inch model. Can you use a blade smaller than 10-inches?

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I love my Makita Lithium battery tools. Drills, impact driver, skill saw, sawzall, Hand grinder and whatever came in the largest kit Oregon Tool had at the time. I can run one battery while charging the other and never run out of power. All my Makita tools have been great whether battery or with cord. I also have Makita ni-cad's that still work well. Just did not have enough tools for the help on a project, so bought more. I only use a corded hand drill a few times every few years. :D

On the other hand I bought a Bosh power hand planner and burned up the belt in one day. Took it back to lowes and got 2 cheap ones for the same price, and they are still going strong. Won't buy anymore Bosh power tools. :angry:

Dewalt 14" planer lasted 2 or 3 days before I returned it. Just not up to the task of planing old dry fence boards that I bought it for. :unsure:

John

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On the other hand I bought a Bosh power hand planner and burned up the belt in one day. Took it back to lowes and got 2 cheap ones for the same price, and they are still going strong. Won't buy anymore Bosh power tools.

That's the thing you can't really go by brand, each brand has duds and possibly some really good models.

The only thing Bosch I have is a Jig saw, it's by far the best Jigsaw I have ever had, it's a few years old and is great, powerful and accurate and works like it is new. I read every review and compare everything in it's price range before buying any tool.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/b1590rvu.html

I got lucky with a plainer, my neighbor was selling a old 12" foley-Belsaw planer, weighs hundreds of pounds and built to last, he didn't like his new Grizzly as much as the old one, but I did end up with his like new Grizzly joiner. The only thing is both pieces are really big and so heavy we made a metal carriage for each so they can be rolled around, they will both outlast me guaranteed.

Edited by dtel
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