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POWER TOOLS!


tigerwoodKhorns

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  • 2 weeks later...

I received a Kobalt 10" compound sliding miter, along with a new blade.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_358938-46069-SM2507LW_4294707849__?productId=3512785&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&facetInfo=

and a Porter Cable circular saw for Christmas,

http://www.lowes.com/pd_36855-79992-PC13CSL_4294707846__?productId=1208959&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&facetInfo=

All laser guided so that is nice, can't wait to start finishing my basement this next year to put these to the test.

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I'm eyeballin that new Dewalt 20v cordless drill, soon everything will go to 20v so I"ll be ahead of the game a bit, I"ve had pretty good luck with Dewalt. I had some construction work done 6 months ago and the whole crew had Dewalt stuff, the bossman said they were the only ones that would hold up under his Mexicans, he said Makita was going backwards towards mass market, kinda like stereo"s I guess

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From taking with a dewalt rep. They are phasing out everything under the 18v xrp line and doing away with the 24v 28v and 36v and bringing in the 20v max(still 18v) stuff. If you notice. Some of the newer 20v max tools also take the 18v xrp batteries. ( lights, vacuum)The reason. There are simply too many xrp consumers on the market to do away with it at this time. If it wasn't for the xrp nailers and impacts I owned I would have jumped onto the 20v stuff myself.

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I looked really closely at the Dewalt tools. I bought Makita Drills because they can be throttled at slow speeds. The Dewalts jump to about 1/2 of the tools RPM. Not enough control. A shame because they were less than the Makitas and I have other Dewalt tools that I really like.

Tools are special to me and and I refuse to let the Microsoft "replace it every 3 years" moto apply to tools. I have a 14v Makita drill and everything else is corded. If they ever settle on one battery format and the tools can last 20+ years like the rest of my tools I will play the game.

FWIW, I did just buy a Halogen Makita light that takes the same batteries as my 14v drill. Seemed like something good to have.

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I didn't see them when buying. I just looked them up and it looks like the 3 speed is for the cordless versions. I bought corded drills.

I am either in the garage or the house when using the tools, so the corded ones are not a bother. I do have one cordless when I need to drill a quick home and feel lazy.

I have Makita chopsaws, sander and drills. Love their tools. But if I ever get a nicer chopsaw, Dewalt makes a really nice dual compound slider.

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http://rs7.pbsrc.com/albums/y290/cecaa850/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_0184.jpg~c100?t=1388859331

I have no idea why I can't post this pic. When I use the "image" button all it does is display a tiny crawing of a pic. Oh well, click the hyperlink and you'll see the track saw I just got for Christmas.

I've never had so many problems posting pics as I have since the forum changed. Don't know why it made it so small either.

Edited by CECAA850
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http://rs7.pbsrc.com/albums/y290/cecaa850/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_0184.jpg~c100?t=1388859331

I have no idea why I can't post this pic. When I use the "image" button all it does is display a tiny crawing of a pic. Oh well, click the hyperlink and you'll see the track saw I just got for Christmas.

I've never had so many problems posting pics as I have since the forum changed. Don't know why it made it so small either.

That is a fine tool and on my list so please let us know how you like it, although I know you're going to love it if you've never used it before.

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I was looking at that saw. Very nice. Did you get the extra long track to rip 96" panels?

I still do it the old fashion way, 100+" thick wall square steel tubing, a few milk crates and a Porter Cable circular saw for the full sheets and a table saw for the smaller pieces.

When I finally build a separate shop, I need some sort of table and jig to cut full panels. They are way too dangerous to use a table saw unless you have two people and a really big table.

Edited by tigerwoodKhorns
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I was looking at that saw. Very nice. Did you get the extra long track to rip 96" panels?

Instead of getting the super long track, I got a 55" track, a 75" track and the hardware to join them. That way I can rip full sheets of ply and have some smaller, easier to manuver tracks when cutting smaller stock.

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I still do it the old fashion way, 100+" thick wall square steel tubing, a few milk crates and a Porter Cable circular saw for the full sheets and a table saw for the smaller pieces.

I've fought home made guides and clamps for years and was ready for the next step. I'm really excited about having this, it'll make my life a whole lot easier on my next build.

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a few milk crates and a Porter Cable circular saw for the full sheets

I just got these for Christmas. Raises and holds the wood while sanding or cutting. Eight of these may make cutting large wood sheets easier. Looking forward to trying them out. Not sure if sawdust will affect their 'gription'.

http://www.amazon.com/Bench-Dog-10-035-Cookie-Grippers/dp/B0037Z7D0A

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Well, I tried the new Makita jigsaw today.

It is a huge step up from my ancient B&D, but it cannot replace my circular saw for ripping, even small sheets. It vibrates very little for a jigsaw and the LED is really nice to see what you are doing, but I don't see it being used for precision edges.

That said, it will be great for cutouts and other items where a jigsaw is necessary.

It is a Makita 4350 FTC: http://www.amazon.com/Makita-4350FCT-Top-Handle-L-E-D-Light/dp/B0010X2GLC

Anyone have one that can shed some light on this. I'd really like to use it to cut down large sheets that are too big for the table saw.

Carl - I agree, I need a panel saw or other solution for big pieces like what you are using.

Edited by tigerwoodKhorns
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It is supposed to be a more comfortable holding position to control the saw.

Cool, good to know for future purchases. Thanks.

I also need a new welding helmet (MIG welding). Any suggestions?

I'm not much help in that realm.
I own a Jackson nexgen. This is my second Jackson, the first one died after years of abuse. ( busted the lense when i threw a tool onto my cart and hit it) The reason I bought this helmet over the hornel speedglas is at the time it had the largest auto darkening window on the market. Really makes a difference. It also has a 3 in 1 function to allow you to use the same lense for cutting and grinding. Both this helmet and the speedglas have environmental kits you can add on for fresh air. Both have adjustable tint, and delay. The nexgen is battery/ solar and has low battery warning. If the battery dies it stays tinted at darkest level like any smart glass. The hornel is smaller form factor which will help if you are crambing yourself into tight spaces but the nexgen had more coverage. My only complaint is the head gear doesn't last if you weld every day and flip it up and down a lot. Also heavier than the hornel. They make replacement parts but I ended up using head gear out of another brand shield. If your investing in a high end helmet($300) make sure to buy lense protectors. Keeps the hot stuff from melting into your glass and making rust stains. Ihave a rather large head and the hornel just wasn't working for me.

As to the last comment about the jig saw, at the end of the day the blade is the most important part of the process. There really is a difference in cut quality and control between the 3 for $5 blades and a $10 blade. I've had good luck with blades that cut on their down stroke instead of up, but it's not for everyone since you have to make shire the saw stays seated. Double cut teeth help also.

Edited by McMiRA
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