twalkonline Posted December 16, 2013 Share Posted December 16, 2013 I'm refurbing some KP-201 and 301's. The newer ones have the Neutrik 1/4" which is easily replaced with the NL4 Speak-on jack. However, the older ones are fitted with an XLR which is slightly smaller and has a different mounting hole footprint than the NL4. I have not attempted to cut, drill or punch the plastic input panel as I'm not sure of the best tool or technique to do so without risk of cracking the plastic. On the other hand, I have a new, universal input panel from Klipsch which is pre-punched for any combination of NL4's, fuses, or binding posts. However, This part does not come with the overlay which covers the unused holes and the overlay is not available as a replacement part. Anybody out there have any experience with this and can offer an opinion on what is the lesser evil? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted December 16, 2013 Share Posted December 16, 2013 (edited) The XLR would never have been a factory input. I've drilled out the factory holes on the plastic input panels to accept the NL4 with success though. The diameter is 15/16. I use a flat wood type bit. The trick is determining a new 'center' for drilling a larger hole over the smaller one. Heres what I've done. Remove the jack cup from the speaker entirely so you can work on it easier. Get a small wood block and C-clamp it to the inside flat of the jack cup, flip it over and now you can start the bit in the center of whatever the old hole was and slowly ease the flat bit down so that it will cut a new centered hole through the placard, then the plastic, of the size sufficient to hold the NL4 input. Some trimming of the hole with a sharp utility knife may be necessary. Insert the NL4 jack, align it, and drill the two small holes to accept the mounting bolts. I use #6 x 1/2" machine bolts, the nuts will just barely fit on the inside and the body of the NL4 will hold in place once you get started so you can get nice snug fit. Avoid using pop rivets as these will pull out in time, destroying the jack cup. Edited December 16, 2013 by colterphoto1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted December 16, 2013 Share Posted December 16, 2013 Using a heat gun on low setting, you may be able to remove the placard from the old jack cup and reattach it to the new one using 3M77 or other adhesive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twalkonline Posted December 17, 2013 Author Share Posted December 17, 2013 Thanks. That's kinda what I expected, but was hoping for something a little less labor intensive. The problem may be the molded plastic collar that holds the mounting nuts. XLR screws are at 3 and 9 o'clock while Neutriks' screws are at 2 and 8. As far as the XLR being factory installed, I have to assume it is. I don't know when this would have been the standard, but the input cups are molded to accept the XLR mounting screws and the overlay has the XLR pin out in the silk screen. This is true with both 201 and 301's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted December 17, 2013 Share Posted December 17, 2013 wow, that's a new one on me. Never seen that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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