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JL Sargent

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Those are great shots Joe. A few things you might try with your bug shots. Bump your ISO to 400 even when sunny outside, this will speed up the shutter taking care of the out of focus object. sometimes I even go to 800 ISO. This will also allow you to stop down which will get more of the whole perimeter in focus, like dtel mentioned. When taking shots of moving bugs try setting your camera in its highest speed of multi shots and set the focus on your T3i to AI focus AF. This will allow it to track track the insects as it is moving. Also move your focus point to just the center red point. Tis way it will only focus on that center point and your target. Can you tell I have a Canon too? :)

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Thanks for the advice, I will give it a try

I like the canon, this is the first camera I have owned that was not a point and shoot. It's a process to learn but it's a fun process :D

I was not paying much attention to lighting, However after viewing the 90 or so shots I was able to get an idea of how the lighting affects the shot, I wish I was in a better area, to much clutter and power lines etc... in the way

these were all taken in auto, if the weather cooperates tomorrow, ill set up the camera in manual and give some of these suggestions a shot

Thanks for the advice, It is appreciated

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I like the lighting on this one, its cool how you can see the stems shadow thru the pedals

Your right, I like all three but love the first with the bee flying.

Try what Max2 said also, the last experience I had with a Canon was 36+ years ago with a AE-1, it was my first real camera, film and I loved it.

Good idea with the manual setting, give it a try it's the best way to see how the f stop, shutter speed and ISO effect each other. Don't try to take good pics, just find a comfortable place to sit and take pic's of anything, the same pic over and over with different settings. I just helped my niece learn her new camera like this.

I had her pick a shutter speed and just change the f stop to see the differences, then pick a f stop and change shutter speeds all while watching the light meter in the camera. ISO is a little trickier but if you go to high you will see what it does to the darker areas, easier to see in low light.

Just play with it, and have fun it's not film it cost nothing to take as many as you feel.

If you know these things please ignore, I have no idea if you do.

Once you get the general idea on where you would like the camera settings for different pictures you have the learned the easy part. :o:D

The hard part is composition, a good photographer can take great pic's with any camera no matter how limited.

It takes a great eye which I can't explain, I see the pics taken by our 3 daughters, 2 of the 3 just seem to have an eye for good pictures, the last has to really work at it like me, I try to think of everything and I am just plain lucky to get a good pic as far as composition goes. The funny part is none of the girls know anything more than the different auto settings.

sorry to go on so long, I have been trying to learn this for most of my life. :)

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Let's see it full size!

I am shocked and stunned this post received no support whatsoever.

Really? You're shocked and stunned?

Like I want my giant face plastered on this forum. haha

I wasn't surprised at what you wanted, just surprised the other august members of this assembly did not take up the call.

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Thanks for the advice, I will give it a try

I like the canon, this is the first camera I have owned that was not a point and shoot. It's a process to learn but it's a fun process :D

I was not paying much attention to lighting, However after viewing the 90 or so shots I was able to get an idea of how the lighting affects the shot, I wish I was in a better area, to much clutter and power lines etc... in the way

these were all taken in auto, if the weather cooperates tomorrow, ill set up the camera in manual and give some of these suggestions a shot

Thanks for the advice, It is appreciated

Try moving your top dial to P mode (Program). This will give you the ability to adjust the exposure a little with your rear wheel AND it will allow you to set the focus to center only. In A mode (Auto) the camera won't let you change the focus point. This can cause problems because the camera just calculates what you want in focus, so most of the time your target won't be in focus, but some other part will. This is crucial when cropping for extreme close ups.

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OK, maybe my sawed up Toe isn't getting embraced (with good reason) by the crowd, even though I think its some of my best work Heres a shot I got with a 4" Meade Telescope. A non full moon really shows its landscape

Well to tell the truth, I had just went right past it didn't even look. I don't have a problem with blood or cuts I do it all the time, just didn't want to get that personal with your foot. :blink::lol:

Nice picture, always wanted to be able to connect to a telescope with a camera.

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No photo to post, but questions to ask. I have a camera that has many lenses, doublers, telescopic, a kaleidoscope type lense, but no instruction manual. I would like to learn to use this camera as it appears to have my Digital beat hands down if I only knew how to use it. My life situation is such that I need to find things to enjoy before I go out of control.

I would guess I need someone that is willing to spend some time to tutor me in the older cameras and learning to have fun with them. I will state up front that my budget is limited. But for health reasons I do need to find hobbies to enjoy

As usual crude remarks are enjoyed with advice.

Not meant to hijack this thread, but seemed the best place to put in a request for help.

John

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trouble is my lens is standard kit type and f is not very good lowest is 5.4 I believe

5.4 is really high, most kit lenses are slow and they are usually 3.5 or so, check that again. If it's really 5.4 look to see what you could get below 3.5 without breaking the bank and work with it's focal length.

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As usual crude remarks are enjoyed with advice

Always a good attitude when asking a question. :D

Sounds like a film camera ?

If it is just remember it works like digital, the big difference is cost per picture . :(

ISO on digital replaces film speed, it does the same thing. the higher the ISO or film speed the less light the camera needs.

F-stop and shutter speed work exactly the same.

The doublers like you said go between the main lens and camera body. The good part is it doubles the focal length, the bad part is it doubles the F-stop, (light needed)

If it's film it would probably make better pictures but is not cheap to just use, film cost and developing. Digital is initial cost and almost free to take pics after that. You can keep tons of them on hard drives, Cd's, DVD's very cheap and just practice free.

I will never switch back for a slightly better pic for more $.

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I'm a prime snob. f/2.8 MINIMUM, or go home. My comfort zone is f/1.4 to f/2...

Well don't you just have a cushy comfort zone. I guess that is a comfortable zone, even the best lens made is only slightly better.

I love my 1.8 50mm @ $125, same but in 1.4= $450, same but in 1.2= $700

And that's on a measly 50mm, other longer lenses can go into almost new car prices :o

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attachicon.gifdogwood bees 072.JPG

I need a camera with a faster auto focus. I seem to get an out of focus fuzzy edges on my bee shots, or does someone know of something else that solves this issue

Joe, you have come up against a perennial problem of close-up (macro) photography, it's all to do with depth of field (the areas in front and behind the spot that you focused on). When you get very close to a subject this problem becomes very pronounced, ie the bees eyes may be sharply in focus but the jaws in front and the body behind quickly fall out of focus. There is only one way to control this and that is by using a small f-stop (small as in higher number), unfortunately small f-stops, say above f11 bring about their own problems as regard to image degradation. Shutter speed or ISO settings will be of no consequence, but they will enable you to use smaller apertures (f-stops). If you are into this type of photography a tripod is going to be your best friend. Of course there are also speciality lenses just for this job, but the depth of field issue still exists, it is a simple matter of physics.....Well actually not so simple..... ;)

PS....Did I mention use a tripod when possible?

Edited by oldenough
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I'm a prime snob. f/2.8 MINIMUM, or go home. My comfort zone is f/1.4 to f/2...

Well don't you just have a cushy comfort zone. I guess that is a comfortable zone, even the best lens made is only slightly better.

I love my 1.8 50mm @ $125, same but in 1.4= $450, same but in 1.2= $700

And that's on a measly 50mm, other longer lenses can go into almost new car prices :o

When I had a full Nikon kit I used: Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8, Nikon 50mm f/1.8, Voigtlander 58mm f/1.4, and a Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8. The lenses ranged from $100 to $1800 and my favorite was the Voigtlander. Beautiful bokeh and the manual focus ring was a joy to use.

I sold all of that and now just have a Panasonic GF-1 with the kit 20mm f/1.7 lens. I like both the compositional challenge and the creamy DOF that comes with a fixed focal length lens.

Edited by Thaddeus Smith
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Prime is good but there are many times when I prefer a slower lens than F 2.8. Seems like F/4 or so can be just right. I have Canon L glass out to 200mm. My favorite is a L F/4 35 105mm Zoom. This lens just seems to always take great pictures:

post-32707-0-64180000-1398616330_thumb.j

Edited by JL Sargent
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Joe, a couple of bee photo's I just took, yup! I just happened to have a bee at hand. First photo taken with an aperture of f2:8, second at f11. The difference in depth of field between the two shots should, I hope, be apparent.

post-18926-0-97580000-1398617418_thumb.j

post-18926-0-97740000-1398617456_thumb.j

Edited by oldenough
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