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DeanG RF-7ii (From Start to Finish)


Youthman

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Carl, do me a solid and set them up for near field. 2ft or so from the wall, angled 45 degrees,6ft between center points of the sqwuaker, and the listening position centered at 6ft from each sqwuaker. Lemme know what you think.

That won't work in the room that they're in but nothing's to say that I can't dolly them around the house.

I was driving around this morning doing errands with my wife and the subject of speaker placement came up. it was actually started by my wife. We're going to take a fresh eye at the space we have available and look at possibly moving some things around. We're pretty limited though. I'm at 15 speakers and three subs right now and that's just what's inside the house.

Hehe, I'm at 17 speakers and 4 subs, inside the house. 7 more in the garage ;) I'm sure that we're both whooped by some on here though!

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This shot is of my modestly sized work area. On the bench are all the parts for two pairs of RF-7s, an RC-7, and Youthman's RF-7iis.

I prefer Xcelite and Klein tools for the most part, but I really like my Wiha pliers. My soldering station is a Hakko 888D, and I use T18-D24 and D24 tips. I use a Mastech 390-570 for taking basic inductance and capacitance measurements. I use good parts, and in the over a decade of doing this, I've never received a bad part (though I sure did ruin a few early on).

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I'll be using Dayton metallized polypropylenes, bypassed with Dayton film and tin foils. If these caps are good enough for the 60th Anniversary Edition of the Klipschorn, then I think it's probably okay to use them here. The bypassing treatment is a JBL thing, and we all know how bad their stuff sucks, right? : )

I took the one of the networks to Parts Express with me, and had them pull a few brands that were in consideration, the Daytons just looked like they would present less issues.

I wish Klipsch would get away from those oval capacitors.

Note #4 http://marc.info/?l=basslist&m=101831073029354&w=2

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Edited by DeanG
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Notice the razor blade. The adhesive is very good. If I knew what it was I would use it myself! I could clean it up, but it would almost constitute a project in and of itself.

I'll be moving the resistors to the bottom of the board, and they will be lifted off the board as they should be. At any rate, this will then leave plenty of room for a nice, clean installation.

The capacitor values are 5.6uF, 3.3uF, and 3.65uF. To get that last value I'm using a 3.3uF and paralleling it with a .22uF bypass capacitor. Close enough. The remaining caps are being bypassed with .10uF. The resistors are 3.9 and 39 ohm. I use Mills Non-inductives exclusively. Well, on Reference I do.

Since this is a current production loudspeaker, no schematic will be forthcoming. Please do not ask me about the coil values or begin flooding my email box to step you through the entire process, I just don't have the time. I'll try to get enough in here to get you going. Please don't do this unless you have some idea of what you're doing.

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DeanG - Nice selection of precision tools. Your work area is very organized and neat. Great photos, they keep the topic focused. Not that the side conversations have taken away from the thread topic.

Edited by toolz
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doesn't gorilla glue require water to activate? I'm inclined to think that water is kept as far away from the assembly line as possible.

I have used it without water and it seemed to work, but after a quick trip to their website I see you are right. I would think a little water could be mixed in to the glue like you mix hardner into epoxy though and not get things wet.

Edited by bobdog
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It DOES look like gorilla glue, it even feels like it a little. This stuff is more rubbery though and think about the set and dry times. I've used better adhesives than hot melt, but always quit using them because of the dry times -- and the smell.

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