The Dude Posted December 25, 2013 Share Posted December 25, 2013 Well if all goes as plan. I should be starting my home theater/ bar area this early spring late winter. So I thought I would start now with getting a good design/plan on board. Room dimensions are approx 15' x 32', yes I will be cramming some stuff in here. But with the help of Sketchup I should be able to get a good idea how things will fit. If it doesn't work out in the long run I can down size. But why not start big first right. I know the angle isn't great but on the farthest wall were the angle will be better, is actually 14.5' wide. I haven't finalized anything yet, but I think its a good start. I will post some 2d pics from sketchup first. My proposed gear pre/pro ethier Onkyo, or Denon. I would like a good audyssey program, and a phono input ( I know I could just use a phono pre but don't want to). Amps will either be 3 McIntosh MC2505s or more then likely the 3 Passlabs diy F5Tv2s I am building (build thread on that will be sub thread or link posted in this one). These will be used to actively bi amp the front 3 l/c/r, last a good sub amp for the subs and good 2 channel amp for the surrounds. I may run some wires for 7.1 I know some are going 9.2 or 11.2 but with the little room height I don't think I will get there. So maybe some rear surrounds in the ceiling. For the fronts will be either Klipschorns, Jubilees, or Jamborees, with a Lascala for a center, more on that later. Surround duty will be the Drifts I built, which you can see a mock up on the wall. Last a pair of DIY spuds, for low end. I haven't decided on a projector/screen yet. But something decent, around the 1500.00-2500.00 range on the projector, and around 2000.00 on the screen. Note on the screen, I was originally going to use a automatic drop down A/T screen as I was going to have a flat screen behind it, kind of like PSG's home theater. But forum member Bliss53 was over during the last weekend on a little listening, and recommended just putting a flat screen on the bar wall for the little viewing I will do with it. So I would be able to do a fix A/T screen which I could then go DIY and save a bunch there. But there is time to decide that. I am thinking screen size around 120" sitting approx 13' back in the main row. The bar area will actually be slightly different, the bar back will actually be 18" as apposed to the 24" I have drawn up now. Which will either give me more space between the bar back, and actual bar, or space between the bar and second row bar table. Speaking of the second row bar table it will only be 7' long behind the couch to give more walking space to the front row, or at least not so crowded. Can't forget room for the dog. If I am leaving anything out, I guess that is why I started a build thread now. I have all so started doing some lighting ideas to, just don't know exactly what I want or need. So that will obviously change as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted December 25, 2013 Share Posted December 25, 2013 Looks like a fun project. Keep us posted on the progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted December 25, 2013 Author Share Posted December 25, 2013 Here is the lighting ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted December 25, 2013 Author Share Posted December 25, 2013 (edited) The bigger circles are 6" cans, from the research I did it was something square footage divided by wattage of bulbs, came to about 11. The 3 littler ones are pendents. I would like to get some sconces on the walls so there may be to many can lights. Edited December 25, 2013 by duder1982 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted December 25, 2013 Author Share Posted December 25, 2013 Looks like a fun project. Keep us posted on the progress. I will it just may take a while. But if anyone has any ideas throw them at me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted December 25, 2013 Share Posted December 25, 2013 If you plan on soundproofing the ceiling can lights may not be the best idea + they tend to rattle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted December 25, 2013 Author Share Posted December 25, 2013 If you plan on soundproofing the ceiling can lights may not be the best idea + they tend to rattle. This is something to think about, one thing I did see is some people using electrical tape to help keep them from rattling. I don't know if it works or safe, but there may be some thinking to do on this. Here is another pic with some columns I added, they are 6" wide and 3" deep match up with the ceiling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NBPK402 Posted December 25, 2013 Share Posted December 25, 2013 I hope to b e starting on mine in the next few months too. Subscribed to watch your journey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanm84 Posted December 25, 2013 Share Posted December 25, 2013 When I finished my basement several years ago the one thing I regretted was not using more dimmers and zones for lighting. At the time I had no grand plans for sound (I know right??) and I basically had two zones of lighting with on/off capability only. I did all my own electrical so I coulda have done anything I wanted for almost no real extra costs. I guess the big take away is plan for later even if not using today. It's easy to run power and wire/cable now and keep it buried in a box for later than to try to retro fit. Good luck. Jealous as I don't currently have the space I would like and would love a build project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete H Posted December 30, 2013 Share Posted December 30, 2013 Members 126 posts LocationNJ Offline Posted 24 December 2013 - 09:56 PM When I finished my basement several years ago the one thing I regretted was not using more dimmers and zones for lighting Great advice; looking at your initial plan with a bar area and HT area I would assume that the room will get used for more than just watching movies so the more zones and specific task lighting the better. I have 6 different light switches in my kitchen and they get used in different combinations all the time. If you go with cans you should get the ones listed for insulated spaces so you have options to quiet them down if they do rattle or should I say when they rattle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted December 30, 2013 Author Share Posted December 30, 2013 I had contacted a couple of lighting design companies today to help me with this project. Hopefully I hear back from them in the next couple of days. My goal is to get the framing, and wiring, then insulation done in the next couple of months. So I can start getting drywall up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete H Posted December 30, 2013 Share Posted December 30, 2013 I had contacted a couple of lighting design companies today to help me with this project. Hopefully I hear back from them in the next couple of days. My goal is to get the framing, and wiring, then insulation done in the next couple of months. So I can start getting drywall up. I really don't think you need to pay someone to figure out your lighting once you are set on the final room layout and a simple list of how and what you may use sections or the entire room for. Once you have that done, including the list, it's really a matter of first deciding what type of lighting you like and want to purchase because you can invest a lot of money in led's but in the long run they're great but you have to look at the different spectrums that are available because they will vary greatly. I'm sure you'll get plenty of assistance right here for free so just fire away with questions. One of the other things you need to decide upfront is which zones you want to be able to dim because it will affect your selections. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyrc Posted December 31, 2013 Share Posted December 31, 2013 (edited) Consider getting a pre/pro with Audyssey XT32. I have XT -- it's good, but XT32 has the rep of being a lot better. You may want to get a pre/pro that has another way of slightly adjusting the EQ to your preference while Audyssey remains on. Virtual sliders turn Audyssey off, as you can clearly see by the Audyssey light going off. Separate tone controls ("Bass," "Treble") will usually adjust your front right and left while leaving Audyssey on. Be sure to do that only after running Audyssey, or there is the possibility, with some models, of Audyssey flattening whatever EQ you have set. Of course, you can adjust the sub up or down for the individual film using the pre-pro, again, after running Audyssey, but the sub only covers some of the bass of the music on the soundtrack (usually below 80 Hz), although it covers all of the bass sound effects coming through Low Frequency Effects (up to 120 Hz, if set correctly). Check your room modes by plugging all dimensions into a online calculator. If the proportions need to be changed a little, the calculators will reveal that. Seymour will sell you the fabric alone for an AT DIY screen, and provide valuable consultation. We have a 130" wide (not diagonal) 2.35:1 Seymour AT electrical roll down screen and truly love it. 'Scope and other wide AR films look great. Marvelous facial detail at about 12.5 feet away, and no screen pattern showing. We do project in total darkness, though. Search for other forum members who have with Seymour. As I remember, they are very happy. Panasonic projectors provide a lot of bang for the buck. Since it is almost impossible to see a representative sample of projectors demonstrated, you may have to take the consensus of online opinion. We love our Klipschorns as R and L with a Belle Klipsch as a center, but rumor has it that one of the better Jubilee configurations would be better. Our Belle is raised to the same ht. as the Khorn mids and tweeters, and it's behind the AT screen. We don't like most recessed lighting in cans, because one can often see the bulb when they are on and one is just listening to music, rather than running a film. We have indirect lighting behind the seats and track lighting -- with no visible bulbs -- farther forward aimed at the screen. We are looking into a noiseless fader (if there is such a thing) so the lights can be faded down just before the film starts. For now, the lights just click off, but we really like fade downs, because in certain theaters they seem to suck the viewers into the screen. Best of luck! Edited December 31, 2013 by Garyrc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted December 31, 2013 Author Share Posted December 31, 2013 (edited) Gary thanks for all the great advice, Pete, the problem with designing the lighting scheme is that I don't know what I want. Well some what, I know I would like some sconces, and pendant lights over the actual bar. I just started with can lights as this seems to be what I see around everywhere. But that is it for now, I guess I would like to display the speakers when the screen is up and display the screen when it is down. That is all I have for ideas, if you or anyone else has any throw them at me. If we can figure it out on our own I would rather do that. Then we can save money Edited March 16, 2014 by duder1982 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted December 31, 2013 Author Share Posted December 31, 2013 Other then the colors here is a pretty good Idea what I want to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted December 31, 2013 Author Share Posted December 31, 2013 (edited) Check your room modes by plugging all dimensions into a online calculator. If the proportions need to be changed a little, the calculators will reveal that. Anyone know what this means. http://www.bobgolds.com/Mode/RoomModes.htm I guess it didn't load my actual room modes. Edited December 31, 2013 by duder1982 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyrc Posted December 31, 2013 Share Posted December 31, 2013 (edited) The screen should be perfectly centered between the speakers, or you will be driven crazy. Also, the La Scala (or whatever you use for a center) should be perfectly centered behind the screen. I don't know what your mode results mean either. Try another room mode calculator site. You could look at several that Google will give you. One of them -- somewhere -- gives a very good overview of all the variables that make a mode, or a cluster of modes, important or relatively unimportant. Some articles will tell you to forget room EQ, but I think good room proportions + Audyssey is a very good way to go, short of resorting to unsightly and problematic bass traps. On another topic, if you end up buying absorbers, diffusors, bass traps, etc., don't overdamp, and watch out for the snake oil. Edited December 31, 2013 by Garyrc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel Posted December 31, 2013 Moderators Share Posted December 31, 2013 Congratulations dude, nice size room. I have no doubt the picture and sound will be right, only one question what is the plan for how the back side of the room will look, design/style ? Only ask because I just did a bar and after reading alot found some good and some strange ideas, used both kind. I did find this which helped me figure dimensions for standard sizes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted December 31, 2013 Author Share Posted December 31, 2013 (edited) Congratulations dude, nice size room. I have no doubt the picture and sound will be right, only one question what is the plan for how the back side of the room will look, design/style ? Only ask because I just did a bar and after reading alot found some good and some strange ideas, used both kind. I did find this which helped me figure dimensions for standard sizes. That is a good demonstration. My bar back will actually be 18" as I have a liquor cabinet that I will incorporate into it. So that will actually get me close to the recommendation. I was going to build the bar approx 36" deep, the counter part will be 36" tall and the bar will be 42" tall. But I can play around since it hasn't been built yet. Making some minor adjustments will get me close to recommendations from the chart you show, that is a big help. The table behind the couch will be approx 18" it will be like a second row, I might make it deeper. But it will be only approx 7' not the 9' I originally drew. Edited December 31, 2013 by duder1982 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel Posted December 31, 2013 Moderators Share Posted December 31, 2013 That will be a nice room, I wish I had a dedicated room to use like that. It sounds like the bar plans were really close already, good planing. What I built is outdoors in what will be a garden, it's a 16' x 24' long pole structure with a bar at one end so I had to think about the weather. Like the bar, top is finished in marine spar varnish, the wood is 2 x 12's cut on angles to form the shape and sanded to make it smooth. I wanted it this shape to get as much seating for the space I had, the top of the bar is 28" deep and around the outside 16'. It's not normal except for the height, the back of the bar is a little different also. Since it's outside and the kids play out there no alcohol will be stored there so it could be a little different. The front is finished in diy bamboo, it came out better than I expected, the top is now very shiny and easy to clean, like almost plastic coated but completely weatherproof. I don't want to clog up your thread but just wanted to show you want I was talking about. During construction before any finishing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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