The Dude Posted December 31, 2013 Author Share Posted December 31, 2013 dtel that is cool looking bar, don't worry about clogging up the thread thats what we do here. Plus it gives ideas. I was just talking to my wife last night, she brought up the idea of going to the habitat for humanity's resale store to look for wainscoting. Maybe I could find some good deals, maybe not. But it may be worth the try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babadono Posted December 31, 2013 Share Posted December 31, 2013 If you plan on soundproofing the ceiling can lights may not be the best idea + they tend to rattle. This is something to think about, one thing I did see is some people using electrical tape to help keep them from rattling. I don't know if it works or safe, but there may be some thinking to do on this. Here is another pic with some columns I added, they are 6" wide and 3" deep match up with the ceiling. Duder, This is a basement area correct? I assumed this from the staircase going up. Are you building from bare ceiling joists? If so you should be able to install can lights rigidly enough that they will not rattle. At least not until the volume is so great that you will not hear the rattling. I have 7 can lights in my basement 2 channel room and there is no rattling. Now sound transmission to the upstairs area above is an entirely different subject. In my case I have 4 to 6 inches of spray foam insulation between the joists above the cans so any leakage through the cans is not going upstairs. When you and your family and friends are using the HT for whatever reason are you concerned abou how much sound leaks to the upstairs? The major path for sound transmission will be your staircase IMHO. You are doing well so far IMHO. It is good to have this forum and others to go to for advice while in the planning stages. But beware of info overload. You can't do everything that everybody suggests. babadono Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted December 31, 2013 Author Share Posted December 31, 2013 (edited) If you plan on soundproofing the ceiling can lights may not be the best idea + they tend to rattle. This is something to think about, one thing I did see is some people using electrical tape to help keep them from rattling. I don't know if it works or safe, but there may be some thinking to do on this. Here is another pic with some columns I added, they are 6" wide and 3" deep match up with the ceiling. Duder, This is a basement area correct? I assumed this from the staircase going up. Are you building from bare ceiling joists? If so you should be able to install can lights rigidly enough that they will not rattle. At least not until the volume is so great that you will not hear the rattling. I have 7 can lights in my basement 2 channel room and there is no rattling. Now sound transmission to the upstairs area above is an entirely different subject. In my case I have 4 to 6 inches of spray foam insulation between the joists above the cans so any leakage through the cans is not going upstairs. When you and your family and friends are using the HT for whatever reason are you concerned abou how much sound leaks to the upstairs? The major path for sound transmission will be your staircase IMHO. You are doing well so far IMHO. It is good to have this forum and others to go to for advice while in the planning stages. But beware of info overload. You can't do everything that everybody suggests. babadono Yes it is a basement, I am some what concerned about sound transfer. My buddy about a block a way has a bigger house from the same builder. Installed 2 10" in wall subs(though not that great) but sound transfers a tremendous amount to his third floor. So I want to prevent as much as possible. One thing I was definitely considering is a type of z channel kind of like the h channel. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Clark-Western-12-ft-Metal-Resilient-Channel-727181/202090218# But used locally in apartments and dorms to help separate the ceiling joist from the the drywall. Then double layers of 1/2" drywall with yes insulation. I was looking at a denim insulation sold at Menards. It is meant to help with sound proofing. http://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/insulation/rolls-batts/r13-15-x-93-ultratouch-denim-insulation/p-1689680-c-5780.htm I was even thinking of giving these a try, for sound absorption. I don't know how they compare to owens corning 703. But at least they are not fiberglass, and recycled. http://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/insulation/accessories/ultrasonic-acoustic-panels/p-2021483-c-5776.htm I would of coarse build frames and use the proper material to wrap them in. I really like the Garbo line from this company, I was thinking either black and gold, or red and gold, maybe red and beige. I will let my wife pick out the colors to match the wood. http://tk-living.com/about/index.html Speaking of wood I really want to use mahogany but finding 1/4" panels at a reasonable price may be tough. I was thinking of some cherry, here is some readily available. http://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/panel-products/specialty-panels/hardwood-plywood/1-4-x-4-x-8-b4-cherry-plywood-mdf-core/p-1714161-c-13334.htm Edited December 31, 2013 by duder1982 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanm84 Posted December 31, 2013 Share Posted December 31, 2013 No price posted but they list African mahogany http://intermountainwood.com/omaha_stocklist.htm These guys say they have sheet goods but no idea what they have or prices. http://plywoodinc.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel Posted December 31, 2013 Moderators Share Posted December 31, 2013 OK, not your normal bar, but we never claimed to be normal. That's not bamboo on the bar but PVC pipe easily changed and very tough. Everyone who see's it even close up thinks it's bamboo. The wood top is burned with a little torch to bring out the grain and made to look old then coated with the marine varnish. Since this pic I made more of those industrial strength swivel barstools. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted December 31, 2013 Author Share Posted December 31, 2013 OK, not your normal bar, but we never claimed to be normal. That's not bamboo on the bar but PVC pipe easily changed and very tough. Everyone who see's it even close up thinks it's bamboo. The wood top is burned with a little torch to bring out the grain and made to look old then coated with the marine varnish. Since this pic I made more of those industrial strength swivel barstools. Now thats cool, ideas for the outdoor bar when I get to that point. But first the important room. Make sure to post a picture of that here. https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/140781-lets-see-your-bars/?hl=%2Blets+%2Bsee+%2Byour+%2Bbars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted December 31, 2013 Author Share Posted December 31, 2013 No price posted but they list African mahogany http://intermountainwood.com/omaha_stocklist.htm These guys say they have sheet goods but no idea what they have or prices. http://plywoodinc.com/ Thanks I forget about those companies, I will have to call them next week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel Posted December 31, 2013 Moderators Share Posted December 31, 2013 (edited) Make sure to post a picture of that here. Missed that completely, thanks. Edited December 31, 2013 by dtel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted January 2, 2014 Author Share Posted January 2, 2014 No price posted but they list African mahogany http://intermountainwood.com/omaha_stocklist.htm These guys say they have sheet goods but no idea what they have or prices. http://plywoodinc.com/ Well it turns out plywood inc doesn't actually carry plywood, mainly doors, and door knobs. Huh you would think you would change your name. How ever inter mountain wood, carried it for around 62.00 a sheet, though I forgot to ask if that was 4x8 or 5x5. Which ever they stock it, and it roughly the same price of the cherry from them. Which is less then 10 a sheet more, so the increase wouldn't be to bad. But that it will be a ways before I get to that point. In the mean time I need to get some lighting figured out in the next couple of weeks, So I can get that done as soon as the framing is done. Wait I guess I should get the room cleaned out first, ha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WakeJunkie Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 If you have seen my thread you know I Love the Beanbag! https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/143424-ht-upgrade-wet-bar-at-screen-fireplace/ I recommend www.comfysacks.com. I have the two of the 8ft and love them (one in the HT one in living room). I don't think that one will fit, but they have smaller available. If you can fit a 7ft you will not regret it since you can lay all the way in it. 8ft fits my family of 4 easily with room to spare. As far as lighting. I went with Lutron Spacer system and absolutely love it. I have 4 zones in a similar size room. (35x18). It gives me 4 presets for each zone that allows me to set the Harmony for different events. I have can lights and after some tweaking with pliers and a bass test CD I was able to get rid of the rattle. I was not concerned about sound transfer at all so I just mounted mine between the joist and painted the joist black. 8ft ceilings feel short when you add a drop ceiling under it, with the open joist it feels like a 9ft ceiling. My zones: 1: left and right of screen 2: halfway between bar and screen on the far left and right. 3: over the third row bar (eating lights that also light the theater seating right in front of the bar) 4. back lighting around pool table (wet bar area for you.) I would make sure any lights you use project almost completely down. Light wash onto the screen can really hurt contrast, but shadows when people walk around behind you are the worst. I found that when I had standard bulbs instead of reflectors in my pool table light. I think you would like it the same way, just put a light switch at the back wall wet bar area and the rest of the room on a remote controlled lighting like the Lutron and I think you will be very pleased. Also, you don't have to have all 4 dimmers in the room. My dimmers are located in the equipment room next door and only the one-gang master control switches are visible. Much cleaner look. Make sure you put a master near your equipment so the IR picks up. I highly recommend going with a DIY AT Spandex screen. I have been quite impressed with the contrast. I went with silver over white. Material cost for my 130" 16x9 was $84 shipped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted January 4, 2014 Author Share Posted January 4, 2014 I highly recommend going with a DIY AT Spandex screen. I have been quite impressed with the contrast. I went with silver over white. Material cost for my 130" 16x9 was $84 shipped. I have read your thread, one thing I was looking at this idea. I will have to read the avs forum on this idea, but one question how do you know what the gain is, or at least it was a question that I was asked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyrc Posted January 4, 2014 Share Posted January 4, 2014 Seymour will send you a small sample of their AT screen fabric at N/C, so you can compare it to samples of other brands of AT fabric, or even carry it into showrooms to compare it to whatever screens they have. Klipsch recommends that the ceiling be 8.5 feet or higher with Klipschorns, but some folk, like Artto on this forum have had good results with lower ceilings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted January 4, 2014 Author Share Posted January 4, 2014 (edited) Gary thanks for the input. I was looking at the at screen materiel from Seymour screen its actually close to the gain I need or was preferred. I am sure from what I have researched I can build a screen from them around 300.00, or build one like Wakes for around 100. I the only way I could see upgrading from the fix frame screen. Would be if I mount a flat screen behind the projector. In that case I would want to upgrade to a motorized drop down screen, so I would hate to put the extra 200 in it in that case. Edited January 4, 2014 by duder1982 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted January 4, 2014 Share Posted January 4, 2014 My concern is having KHorns on a 15-foot wall, putting the sweet spot only 7.5 feet into the room where nobody is sitting. Mine are 20 feet apart and converge on the first row. Perhaps La Scala would be a better choice? The Spuds can handle the low end anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted January 4, 2014 Share Posted January 4, 2014 Note on the screen, I was originally going to use a automatic drop down A/T screen as I was going to have a flat screen behind it, kind of like PSG's home theater. But forum member Bliss53 was over during the last weekend on a little listening, and recommended just putting a flat screen on the bar wall for the little viewing I will do with it. Feels nice to be cited! Thanks! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted January 4, 2014 Author Share Posted January 4, 2014 My concern is having KHorns on a 15-foot wall, putting the sweet spot only 7.5 feet into the room where nobody is sitting. Mine are 20 feet apart and converge on the first row. Perhaps La Scala would be a better choice? The Spuds can handle the low end anyway. I know its not ideal room for optimal sound. thought I have read were some have had good luck using them in a room similar to mine. I do understand the sweet spot issue, worse case senario I could use a La Scala or look for a pair of La Scala 2's and make some JubScalas. Or I have a couple cards up my sleeve but we will see what will work. I will have to make some mock ups of some speakers to see what will fit and were. I may end up with my TTLS or using a pair of the spuds as risers in the back area. There will be a journey for sure finding the best solution. One bad thing is being able to test the sound quality but I will have to take a chance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WakeJunkie Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 [quote name="WakeJunkie" post="1679299" timestamp=" I highly recommend going with a DIY AT Spandex screen. I have been quite impressed with the contrast. I went with silver over white. Material cost for my 130" 16x9 was $84 shipped. I have read your thread, one thing I was looking at this idea. I will have to read the avs forum on this idea, but one question how do you know what the gain is, or at least it was a question that I was asked. I don't know how gain on a spandex screen is calculated. It is not a high gain screen. IMO a high gain screen is what you get to make up for an inadequate projector. Silver spandex is a great contrast screen. I can say from experience that it is great at 130" in a fully light controlled room with my Epson 8350. It looks great even with some ambient light during football parties. Looks as good as it did on my Infocus screen, but with better colors Especially blacks. I did have to turn it of of Econo mode, but that is no surprise on a screen that size anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted January 5, 2014 Author Share Posted January 5, 2014 Thanks for the response, what is the diagonal size in 2.35:1 ratio. If I go with approx 120" 16:9 that would give me approx 114" 2.35:1 Then I would just mask the top and bottom lines correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted January 5, 2014 Author Share Posted January 5, 2014 Well I hit my first snag, good thing its early in the game. I was taking down the insulation the builder had put up. There was a lot of sweating on the foundation and some of the insulation was moldy. Doing a little research looks like it could be from the moist warm air in the basement creeping up between the wall and insulation. From little research I did, I should run some poly down the foundation, on one side of the framing. Once I put the new insulation up run the vapor barrier back up the other side. This should stop the moist warm air from hitting the cold foundation wall. Maybe some dryloc on the foundation to help as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted January 6, 2014 Author Share Posted January 6, 2014 Here is the first pics of the basement lets see how they turned out from my phone. These are the before pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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