asica335 Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 (edited) Don't spend all my money honey!!! Edited January 3, 2014 by asica335 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ys80 Posted January 3, 2014 Author Share Posted January 3, 2014 Don't spend all my money honey!!! Ill save a lil bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ys80 Posted January 3, 2014 Author Share Posted January 3, 2014 Will this combo work. Marantz av7701 and an Outlaw 7700 amp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McMiRA Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 Marantz makes a great pr. I own 4 of their integrated receivers and couldn't be happier. The 7701 is very similar to my sr7007. if you want xt32 you will have to go up to the av8801 unless they changed some things, but they are around a $1000 more ($2500). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TasDom Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 Will this combo work. Marantz av7701 and an Outlaw 7700 amp That Outlaw looks like a great amp with some great specs. i would also suggest as McMira did on going with a processor that incorporates the Audyssey XT32 room correction software. Marantz, Integra, Onkyo (just to name a few) have this on some of their processors You have a very large room and with dual subs, XT32 will tie it all together very nicely.....imho You can also save a lot going used or refurbished on sites like Audiogon or accessories4less....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McMiRA Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 For your wiring. That can turn into a huge debate depending on who you ask. Most of us agree on monoprice for speaker wire and hdmi. I'm using their 4 conductor in wall 12 gauge speaker wire and have it terminated with screw on gold banana plugs at the receiver, makes it easier to work with as much as I have to get behind the entertainment center. I'm using their redmere hdmi cables and this eliminated a handshake issue I had with my projector. As far as RCA cables. I have audioquest on my subs but only because the price was right and they had a ground strap built in that I needed to fix a hum. The rest of my rca cables are generic. Everyone has their own taste in cables. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted January 4, 2014 Share Posted January 4, 2014 (edited) I like my Integra DHC-80.3 a lot. It would work nicely with that Outlaw, and has all the bells and whistles. The Onkyo Pro PR-SC5508P is a comparable Onkyo product. Monoprice makes a good product at a good price. For in-wall, you will need CL2 rated wire. A 250' roll of awg12 CL2 from monoprice is $81.41. Edited January 4, 2014 by mustang guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TasDom Posted January 4, 2014 Share Posted January 4, 2014 I like my Integra DHC-80.3 a lot. It would work nicely with that Outlaw, and has all the bells and whistles. The Onkyo Pro PR-SC5508P is a comparable Onkyo product. Monoprice makes a good product at a good price. For in-wall, you will need CL2 rated wire. A 250' roll of awg12 CL2 from monoprice is $81.41. I love my Onkyo as well. I think your 80.3 is the sister to the 5509? Like you said tho, all the bells and whistles one could ever want and then some..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted January 4, 2014 Share Posted January 4, 2014 A lot of the avr's rated 140 watts/ch like the Pioneer Elites could drive that system with no problem. They can swing around 300 watts for dynamics. I am not against separates but, has anyone mention the gain problem some people have with EMOTIVA? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuBXeRo Posted January 4, 2014 Share Posted January 4, 2014 Redmere hdmi cables from monoprice are the best hdmi cables I have used and they put zero stress on the hdmi ports because of their small size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 Don't spend all my money honey!!! How much do you have left? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 I like my Integra DHC-80.3 a lot. It would work nicely with that Outlaw, and has all the bells and whistles. The Onkyo Pro PR-SC5508P is a comparable Onkyo product. Monoprice makes a good product at a good price. For in-wall, you will need CL2 rated wire. A 250' roll of awg12 CL2 from monoprice is $81.41. I love my Onkyo as well. I think your 80.3 is the sister to the 5509? Like you said tho, all the bells and whistles one could ever want and then some..... Good catch. The 5509 is the current Onkyo model. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ys80 Posted January 5, 2014 Author Share Posted January 5, 2014 Guys getting into seperates is a little intimidating for me and seems to be very expensive compared to an avr. My only worry is that my left and rights will be a but underpowered (kl-6504-thx). Specs recommend 200 watts. I like the onkyo Tx-nr3010, it has great reviews and the ability to eq both of my sub's. and is available locally much cheaper than anyone online. What if I was to add an emotiva Xpa-3 to the system for the extra power for the fronts. I can get it done for under 2k. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willland Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 (edited) I like the onkyo Tx-nr3010, it has great reviews and the ability to eq both of my sub's. and is available locally much cheaper than anyone online. I think this would would be a safe bet with future flexibility. What if I was to add an emotiva Xpa-3 to the system for the extra power for the fronts. I can get it done for under 2k. Thoughts? Why not get the Onkyo(or the Denon 4520 for that matter) and see if it underpowers the fronts. If not satisfied, then add an outboard amp. The Onkyo TX-NR3010 has about 95% of the Onkyo's or Integra's flagship preamp/processors performance and feature set. Bill Edited January 5, 2014 by willland Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ys80 Posted January 5, 2014 Author Share Posted January 5, 2014 I like the onkyo Tx-nr3010, it has great reviews and the ability to eq both of my sub's. and is available locally much cheaper than anyone online. I think this would would be a safe bet with future flexibility. What if I was to add an emotiva Xpa-3 to the system for the extra power for the fronts. I can get it done for under 2k. Thoughts? Why not get the Onkyo(or the Denon 4520 for that matter) and see if it underpowers the fronts. If not satisfied, then add an outboard amp. The Onkyo TX-NR3010 has about 95% of the Onkyo's or Integra's flagship preamp/processors performance and feature set. Bill Bill, isn't the emotiva an outboard amp. Don't forget this is my first rodeo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willland Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 Bill, isn't the emotiva an outboard amp. Don't forget this is my first rodeo. Yes. I just meant that if you are having doubts about seperates, give just the receiver an exhaustive try and then decide if you want to add an outboard amp(Emotiva, Sherbourn, Parasound, Acurus, Rotel, etc.). Most here on the forum did not start with seperates, but their(our) gear evolved over time. Believe me, I am not talking you out of seperates(I have them) but if you are having doubts. Bill 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuBXeRo Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 (edited) Guys getting into seperates is a little intimidating for me and seems to be very expensive compared to an avr. My only worry is that my left and rights will be a but underpowered (kl-6504-thx). Specs recommend 200 watts. I like the onkyo Tx-nr3010, it has great reviews and the ability to eq both of my sub's. and is available locally much cheaper than anyone online. What if I was to add an emotiva Xpa-3 to the system for the extra power for the fronts. I can get it done for under 2k. Thoughts? separates are far from difficult. Personally, with all the crap they stuff into AVR's, the last thing i want to worry about after all of that is whether or not the amplifier within it is going to suffice. As long as your AVR has 7.1 or 7.2 channel pre-out, you can always add a power amp down the line or right off the bat. One of the main bumps in price for AVR's is the amount of amplifier power under the hood. To me, it is a quick diminishing value. A power amplifier, if it is a decent brand and well taken care of should perform and outlast your receiver/processor several times over. I find it comforting to know that I have the power i need no matter what and all i have to do is concentrate on the processing aspect when it comes to for upgrades. All speakers come with a RMS rating and a Peak rating. The RMS is a number representing the consistent amount of power that can be fed to the speaker without destroying it. The Peak value is an amount of power that the speaker can handle for an extremely short time, like, miliseconds and is something that might happen when there is an explosion in the movie. What you need to understand is that audio media tends to be dynamic and constantly changes. Sometimes its loud, sometimes its quiet and the power requirements constantly change to reproduce the audio tracks. You can power those THX speakers with 1 watt but it won't be very loud. The spiel above brings me to headroom and solid stat amplifiers vs tube amplifiers. Tube amplifiers are of years past and are still used today and considered to be HIFI. Typically lower in wattages and has tons of waste heat, tube amps are suited for 2 channel critical listening. Tubes are unique in that once you reach the peak power output, the signal is still OK. Essentially, the amplifier has run out of gas and can't give you more power. Enter the solid state amplifier. Transistors have replaced tubes because they do the same thing but at a much much smaller size. They aren't exactly the same thing but accomplish the same task differently. Unlike tubes amps, solid state (transistor amps) run out of gas too but they "clip" at peak power output whereas tubes don't. This means the signal starts to distort and is harmful to your speakers. You can achieve much higher wattages in a small package this way but the caveat is the amp will start clipping at/near max power output. This brings us to headroom. With solid state amps, a lot of us like to leave headroom which is excess power above the stats RMS of the speakers, If the RMS is 200 watts, you may want to pair an amp with 225 or 250 watts. This is purely rule of thumb and just a guide line. This rule of thumb pretty much ensures that your speaker will fail before your amp runs out of power. Klipsch speakers are some of the most efficient on the market and can produce the same volume as other speakers but with less power. This is awesome! Why? Because you don't necessarily need 250 watts per channel for your speakers, you could get away with half that. I run my RF-7's with 125 watts per channel and my ears will bleed before i need more power to them. Your in-walls are not as efficient as my 7's are but at 91-92 db its still not bad. Because your speakers are in sealed enclosures and have a lower sensitivity, having some better power behind them is much more crucial. For every 3 db increase in sensitivity, you need half the power to reach the same volume. Conversely, for every 3 db decrease in sensitivity, you need twice as much power to reach the same volume. In reality, when you are watching a movie, you aren't using much power until an explosion, gun shot or other really loud noises that are dynamic. Most receivers that are class AB put out about 40% less than it states. So for 100 watts X 5 channels, figure about 60 watts of power per channel. Class D is more efficient and tends to have outputs much closer to stated wattages. Power amps are a different story and you are really getting the power that you pay for. 60 watts is still a good deal of power and would work fine but you would benefit greatly by having some extra power at your disposal. There is a lot to learn about when it comes to audio and If you are fairly new, this is just an overload of info. We all get that and we are here to help! Just don't be intimidated. Take the bull by the horns! Since you are just getting your feet wet, find a receiver with Pre-Outs on the back, concentrate on what features you get and get it. The power that follows should be enough. If you find you want more power, adding a power amp will be a breeze! Edited January 6, 2014 by SuBXeRo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TasDom Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 ^^^ Nice post! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappydue Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 A lot of the avr's rated 140 watts/ch like the Pioneer Elites could drive that system with no problem. They can swing around 300 watts for dynamics. I am not against separates but, has anyone mention the gain problem some people have with EMOTIVA? you talking about the hiss or the fact the gain is so high its hard to calibrate? cause neither would be an issue with his particles speaker in a room his size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuBXeRo Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 A lot of the avr's rated 140 watts/ch like the Pioneer Elites could drive that system with no problem. They can swing around 300 watts for dynamics. I am not against separates but, has anyone mention the gain problem some people have with EMOTIVA? you talking about the hiss or the fact the gain is so high its hard to calibrate? cause neither would be an issue with his particles speaker in a room his size. Emotiva amps have a higher gain than most which just means a higher sensitivity for incoming signals. It also means sensitivity to any unwanted noise present within the signal path. Emotiva did this for compatibility purposes for AVR's that have weaker output signals. It's just a method of compensation but it does carry the drawback of increased potential of hearing noise within the signal path. A lower gain is optimal because it is less prone to picking up unwanted noise. The caveat here is that you need a stronger signal going it to it to reach the same volumes. This was something stated by Big Dan at Emotiva or Lonnie in a pod cast or post made some time ago and it stuck with me because its important to know. Variable gain would be nice for home amps but isnt a typical feature for the most part. Commonly, variable gain is found on car amps for increased compatibility. I know that with my Arc Audio amps, i have my gain as low as possible so as to limit any unwanted to noise. I basically tuned the system to the mechanical limits of the speakers and tuned my gain so that it was as least as possible. In part, i was able to do this because my headunit has some of the highest potential signal output on the market at 5V which for signals is high. Hope this insight helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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