mustang guy Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 The Table Tuba & the THT both have 13' horn paths yet the THT easily digs lower in frequencies than the TT so it can't be just the horn length making the difference. I went and checked, and the table tuba actually has an almost 8" LONGER hornpath than the bigger THT. Thanks for bringing it up! Table tuba graph (The Table Tuba, freestanding, wall and corner placement, loaded with the MCM 55-2421 eight.): THT graph (The Tuba HT, freestanding, wall and corner placement, 24.5 inches wide, loaded with a Tempest Classic 15.): By the BFM graphs, it looks like the THT goes about 3-4hz deeper without corner loading. The drivers, cabinet volume, and horn mouth may all be contributors to the difference. By pure horn length calculations using 1126fps sound, and quarter horn calculations, the horn lengths for the horns are tuned as follows: THT = 21.4 hz TT = 20.4 hz Interesting... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 The Table Tuba & the THT both have 13' horn paths yet the THT easily digs lower in frequencies than the TT so it can't be just the horn length making the difference. If they're both 13' the THT must flare at a faster rate I would think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 I went and checked, and the table tuba actually has an almost 8" LONGER hornpath than the bigger THT That makes more sense. BFM says the efficiency is determined by width and depth determined by length. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NBPK402 Posted February 15, 2014 Author Share Posted February 15, 2014 (edited) Well the DIY sub is off the to do list for now... As I now have 2 Danley DTS-10 subs. I am hoping I am able to match them to my La Scalas sonically. We might be starting on the new HT as soon as next week! I am hoping to get it completed far enough to start testing speaker positions in a couple of weeks, and then once that is all finalized do the sound proofing and acoustic treatments. Does anyone know if this would be a good amp to drive the Danley DTS-10 subs? Edited February 15, 2014 by ellisr63 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 (edited) Well the DIY sub is off the to do list for now... As I now have 2 Danley DTS-10 subs. I am hoping I am able to match them to my La Scalas sonically. We might be starting on the new HT as soon as next week! I am hoping to get it completed far enough to start testing speaker positions in a couple of weeks, and then once that is all finalized do the sound proofing and acoustic treatments. Does anyone know if this would be a good amp to drive the Danley DTS-10 subs? Fantastic! You won't have any trouble matching them with the LS's. I have a Yamaha P7000S amp I power a pair of KPT-684's with. It's a great amp, and my experience with Yamaha gear has been positive. To power both Danley's, you might want to look at this amp. It's a couple hundred bucks more. P7000S: Output power; 20Hz-20kHz, 4ohms, 950W x 2 P3500S: Output power; 20Hz-20kHz, 4ohms, 450W x 2 Edited February 15, 2014 by mustang guy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NBPK402 Posted February 15, 2014 Author Share Posted February 15, 2014 I was worried as I saw some posts saying the Yamaha was not good below 20hz... I am glad to hear they can get the job done. Should I run the amp as a stereo amp or in parallel mode? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NBPK402 Posted February 15, 2014 Author Share Posted February 15, 2014 (edited) I saw where someone made this comment... "I recently purchases this amp to power the Cerwin Vega, EL36B Subwoofers. The reason I chose this amp be because 1. I am only a hobby DJ, so funds were an issue and 2. I had only 2 rack units left, so no room for an amp and a cross over. The amp looks great and is light weight too! The set up I'm running sounds awesome! So awesome the subs are vibrating the sheet rock out of the walls. I have an entire wall where the sheet rock nails are visible. Enough about my situation, let me let you know the pros and cons of the amp. PROS: light weight, various ways of connecting, BIG POWER Rating, cross over built in, PRICE, AWESOME heat protection. I ran it for 8 HRS at max volume (slight clipping) and the unit never overheated or turned off.CONS: none, except unlike most amps the input is rated at 8dBu, where on most amps the input is 4dBu, so the amp takes forever to clip, but doesn't sound as great until 8dBu..." . What does this mean? Will it be harder to drive with my Denon 4520ci to reference level? Edited February 15, 2014 by ellisr63 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 (edited) I was worried as I saw some posts saying the Yamaha was not good below 20hz... I am glad to hear they can get the job done. Should I run the amp as a stereo amp or in parallel mode? They are rated to 10HZ. Power band width 10Hz-40kHz Edited February 15, 2014 by mustang guy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 (edited) I saw where someone made this comment... "I recently purchases this amp to power the Cerwin Vega, EL36B Subwoofers. The reason I chose this amp be because 1. I am only a hobby DJ, so funds were an issue and 2. I had only 2 rack units left, so no room for an amp and a cross over. The amp looks great and is light weight too! The set up I'm running sounds awesome! So awesome the subs are vibrating the sheet rock out of the walls. I have an entire wall where the sheet rock nails are visible. Enough about my situation, let me let you know the pros and cons of the amp. PROS: light weight, various ways of connecting, BIG POWER Rating, cross over built in, PRICE, AWESOME heat protection. I ran it for 8 HRS at max volume (slight clipping) and the unit never overheated or turned off. CONS: none, except unlike most amps the input is rated at 8dBu, where on most amps the input is 4dBu, so the amp takes forever to clip, but doesn't sound as great until 8dBu..." . What does this mean? Will it be harder to drive with my Denon 4520ci to reference level? Nah. Input sensitivity means it will take 1.96v to drive the amp to maximum output. Max output would make your house explode, and besides, your Denon is probably 2v. edit: From your owner's manual: D/A output: Rated output — 2 V (at 0 dB playback) Total harmonic distortion — 0.008 % (1 kHz, at 0 dB) S/N ratio — 102 dB Dynamic range — 100 dB second edit (this also from your manual): Analog Input sensitivity/Input impedance: 200 mV/47 kΩ Frequency response: 10 Hz – 100 kHz — +1, –3 dB (DIRECT mode) S/N: 102 dB (IHF–A weighted, DIRECT mode) Distortion: 0.005 % (20 Hz – 20 kHz) (DIRECT mode) Rated output: 1.2 V I am not sure what this one means. Perhaps somebody can clarify... I also want to add that in your unit, I assume there will be the ability to boost channels to the amp just like you do to the speakers. eg: boost the sub channel +3db Edited February 15, 2014 by mustang guy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NBPK402 Posted February 15, 2014 Author Share Posted February 15, 2014 (edited) Will I have a problem reaching reference level with the P7000S since the amp is a +8dbu... or should I just go with the P3500S which is +4dbu? Disregard as you already answered my question while I was typing. Edited February 15, 2014 by Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 You will want to purchase some RCA to XLR adapters to connect a pro amp to your AVR. female rca to male xlr 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 Will I have a problem reaching reference level with the P7000S since the amp is a +8dbu... or should I just go with the P3500S which is +4dbu? Disregard as you already answered my question while I was typing. I did answer that, but there is a difference between reference levels and maximum output levels when you are mating a pair of Danley DTS-10's to a Yamaha P7000S. The thing I like about the 7000 is the amplifier overhead. Those Danley's love the juice (as I understand). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NBPK402 Posted February 15, 2014 Author Share Posted February 15, 2014 According to the Danley Tech... I should be able to hit reference level with the Danleys with 250-500w before i take into consideration my room loading for a listening position of 15'. Since Guitar Center is having a 15% off sale I think I will just get the P7000S instead of the P3500S. I should have more than enough power with reliability and a very quiet fan (the bad thing about the Behringer, QSC, and Crown amps). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NBPK402 Posted February 15, 2014 Author Share Posted February 15, 2014 Yeah the Danleys are rated at 100db with a 2.83v input and will take 1000 watts continuous with a 2000 watt peak. I will be surprised if i ever even hit 500 watts out of the amp to hit the levels I listen too... I think that in normal use I might even only use 100 watts of the Yamaha to hit the levels I want... At least that is what I hope to get out of them. I will get the amps but I won't be able to test them out for a few months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 10 watts would be 110 db. 100 watts would be 120db. 1000 watts would be 130db. The overhead wattage will give you the peaks you want when listening at high rms. The smaller amp would not. I think you are making the right choice. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeJ1 Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 (edited) The Table Tuba & the THT both have 13' horn paths yet the THT easily digs lower in frequencies than the TT so it can't be just the horn length making the difference. If they're both 13' the THT must flare at a faster rate I would think. Hmmm. I Emailed Bill Fitzmaurice a few years back and I remember distinctly him telling me the Tuba HT is an 11 Ft. horn with an F3 of 25 Hz. Plus, I owned one, even though it's sold, I still have it downstairs coupled to some Klipsch Pro stuff that get weak below 100 Hz. Edited February 15, 2014 by ClaudeJ1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 Should I run the amp as a stereo amp or in parallel mode? It depends on your AVR. If you are using dual LFE outputs, use stereo mode and use both the A and B input jacks. If you are using a single LFE out, use parallel mode into the A jack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeJ1 Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 Well the DIY sub is off the to do list for now... As I now have 2 Danley DTS-10 subs. I am hoping I am able to match them to my La Scalas sonically. We might be starting on the new HT as soon as next week! I am hoping to get it completed far enough to start testing speaker positions in a couple of weeks, and then once that is all finalized do the sound proofing and acoustic treatments. Does anyone know if this would be a good amp to drive the Danley DTS-10 subs? Congrats on the Danleys and welcome to the club. PM sent. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NBPK402 Posted February 16, 2014 Author Share Posted February 16, 2014 (edited) 10 watts would be 110 db. 100 watts would be 120db. 1000 watts would be 130db. The overhead wattage will give you the peaks you want when listening at high rms. The smaller amp would not. I think you are making the right choice. I just went to GC and got the last Yamaha P7000S that GC has in stock in the USA! I took advantage of their 15% off Holiday pricing which made it a very good deal IMO since their price before thew discount was the same as everyone else on this model. The salesman wanted me to buy a QSC or a Crown but I have had both for a short time in the past and they both had unacceptable fan noise. Everything I have heard about the Yamaha says there is zero fan noise! It should exceed any power requirements I will ever have and hopefully last for a very long time. For reference level I am just seeking 115 on peaks for the sub. Edited February 16, 2014 by Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NBPK402 Posted February 16, 2014 Author Share Posted February 16, 2014 Well the DIY sub is off the to do list for now... As I now have 2 Danley DTS-10 subs. I am hoping I am able to match them to my La Scalas sonically. We might be starting on the new HT as soon as next week! I am hoping to get it completed far enough to start testing speaker positions in a couple of weeks, and then once that is all finalized do the sound proofing and acoustic treatments. Does anyone know if this would be a good amp to drive the Danley DTS-10 subs? Congrats on the Danleys and welcome to the club. PM sent. Thanks... PM sent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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