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DIY THSPUD clone


The Dude

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Well not much accomplish on this project. I made a new template using some thinner osb/chip board I had laying around and quickly recalled why this material isn't good for a template. This material apparently has the ability to swell in some areas while not swelling in others. This leaves a shallow or deeper dado than needed. I have now learned why my last spud had high and low spots once screwed together. I had to brainstorm a little for the best route. Ideally, I think it would be best to have started with a piece of 1/4" mdf. Since I have already ran a first path of dado, it seems silly to spend the money on a piece of material that will be scrapped after a single run. I happen to have an 1/8" piece of masonite that I think would work better than the USB, now to just re cut the template.

But not so fast. One way I could buy materials for the sub, was to also buy materials for a build in bookcase my wife has been asking for. Once she caught wind that I was building the subs first, the whip came down and it was time to get started first. Apparently she believes if I build the subs first, then the bookshelves wont get down. It was actually kind of nice to take a step back from the subs as frustration was starting to set in. Plus my son came out to help me with the bookcases which was alot of fun. I have about 3 or 4 rods in the fire, 1 of which is done, that was the 2 doors I needed to hang. The subs, cabinets, and sound panels are the other 3. My goal is to have most of this done before my good buddy comes to town in about 12 days. I think if I stay focused, it can happen. Next week/weekend should give me plenty of time, considering the good start I have. Tomorrow and Tuesday is all it should take for me to finish the assembly of the second cabinet, then dry fit the top. Once those are done, I might be able to shake off the wife for a couple days to see about thses subs. One thing I needed to order was the t nuts and screws. I need those before installing the motor board anyways. Those should be here by Wednesday. 4b032f5c62eeb839614a47850099a286.jpg7531139ccc2e1fe6cd7808a0a834d4b5.jpg104c16b49b988983ae0640d6dc905322.jpg45bf4c56f1edcfe576ceb6475f6ae13c.jpg

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I was able to re router the panels today with the correct depth. Note to any out there considering building these, get 1/4" mdf for your template, and check to see if the guide bearing on your template bit is adjustable. The 1/8" mdf worked but not realizing my bearing was adjustable until after fact, forced me to be extra careful. All in all it turned out ok with only minor issues. I am not as far as I would like to be, but things are moving. Tomorrow I will try and get all the walls cut to length and start mocking them up square to the side panels. I did receive all my driver mounting hardware, so I will be able to get those installed once I get those panels cut. I was hoping to be assembling Friday night, but its going to be a long shot, especially if I get called into bowling tomorrow night.

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I forgot I wanted to dado the edges. I was able to get that done tonight and start laying out some of the walls. I spent some time researching the outlets and access panels. It appears Danley has the access panels on the back side of the chamber, with the drivers mounted from the opposite side than how I did it last time. I am going to try and mimic the way Danley did this. I am also going to try and mimic the outlets as well. This will allow me to play with openings in different positions to achieve optimal bass without shaking the floor above.

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1 hour ago, Wardsweb said:

Wow, that is some impressive work. Kudo's to you sir. I love my DTS10. Used with a set of Juliblee's, my home theater rocks! Here is a picture during assembly.

 

 

DTS10_20.jpg

 

So you either built this in your audio room, or even your shop is so fancy it has hardwood floors. :P

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1 hour ago, Wardsweb said:

Wow, that is some impressive work. Kudo's to you sir.

Thanks:blush2:, that means a lot coming from you, considering the phenomenal work I have seen you do.  But in all reality, I am only an amature and we'll have to see what the finished product is.  

 

19 minutes ago, Thaddeus Smith said:

So you either built this in your audio room, or even your shop is so fancy it has hardwood floors

I've seen pictures his room and believe that is it (not meaning to speak for him), however, it wouldn't surprise me if his work space is that fancy. 

 

2 hours ago, CECAA850 said:

Are you going to add any damping material?

I thought about, but as mentioned it didn't seem to matter.  Would you see a reason to do so? It is still a possibility, would just need to find the right material. 

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25 minutes ago, HPower said:

I "think" it was one of the Danley kits?

 

If so, did the kit come with any damping material... or have instruction to add it?

 

I could have sworn they used some but for the life of me I can't find any actual pictures of them. Plenty of clone pics out there though.

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Thanks Carl and Wardsweb!

 

I have been lurking around Dude's thread here as I am still trying to decide what sub boxes to build with the 4 LAB12s that I recently picked up.

Claude hooked me up with the LAB12 TH plans that he has used, they look like a very easy way to get 4 great subs in my room,

which is for Stereo music only.

 

No doubt the DST10 is a more superior sub, that will play lower, but 4 of the LAB12TH could trump 2: DST10s... ???

 

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5 hours ago, CECAA850 said:

Danley did and that's good enough for me.  I believe it cuts down on some of the higher frequencies created by harmonic distortion that you don't want.

That's a valid point, kind of another reason I decided to run the access panels on the rear side of the chamber unlike others and I have in the past with it on the throat/mouth.  Thinking about it, maybe when others were testing the difference with or without the dampening, maybe they were only looking at increased low end/spl.  Not higher frequencies that could cause issues. 

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