The Dude Posted January 10, 2020 Author Share Posted January 10, 2020 2 hours ago, babadono said: All I know is I sure wish they would offer them kits again! Believe it or not, I have seem them come up for sale here and there. I want to say just last year I seen a non assembled kit come up for sale down in Florida somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babadono Posted January 11, 2020 Share Posted January 11, 2020 Yep last year someone posted on here 2. One was a finished kit, the other still in a box. But he would never respond to my posts or PMs. Really ticked me off. Who the hell got those anyway? @muel did you end up with them, I think I remember you posting "oh goodie 2" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted January 12, 2020 Author Share Posted January 12, 2020 Progress so far, all outer dados cut, all screw holes pre drilled, one complete unit mocked up. Just need to cut the mouth opening, access opening, driver cutouts (which I am dreading).Disassemble and re assemble with glue. Then on to assembling the second one. I wish I had an easier way to cut the holes for the drivers or should I say an accurate way as the last two attempts didn't measure up.Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted January 12, 2020 Author Share Posted January 12, 2020 Now that I understand more how the access panels mount, I wish I would have stopped my dados on the edge to give me more meat to screw them to. Now I will have to get creative, but dont think it will be too much of an issue. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted January 13, 2020 Author Share Posted January 13, 2020 I wish i had this drawing earlier when I was creating my driver access panel, no big deal. Now I have them here so I can easily access for future needs or for reference for anyone else making these. [mention=11944]Wardsweb[/mention] Do you recall having any issues attaching the last large panel after the others have been glued and dried? During my mock up this afternoon it was a bit of struggle getting the last large panel on, I am sure this is due to me not having the ability to CNC and everything being close to perfect. It did seem to help once I cut my outer two panels for access and exit, things were easier to shift and line up, maybe final assembly wont be so bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted January 13, 2020 Author Share Posted January 13, 2020 On 3/3/2014 at 9:40 PM, CECAA850 said: guess it's not the best pic. Amp + to driver 1 +. Driver 1 - to driver 2 -. Driver 2 + to amp - is how they should be. On 3/3/2014 at 9:36 PM, CECAA850 said: Negative from driver 1 goes to negative of driver 2. This is the whole reason I bump this thread, I want to make sure I get this correct this time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wardsweb Posted January 13, 2020 Share Posted January 13, 2020 9 hours ago, The Dude said: This is the whole reason I bump this thread, I want to make sure I get this correct this time. These have to run out of phase, so they work together, in the same direction. I will post the instruction from the factory manual, when I get home this evening. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted January 13, 2020 Share Posted January 13, 2020 9 hours ago, The Dude said: This is the whole reason I bump this thread, I want to make sure I get this correct this time. Follow the written directions above and you'll be fine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete H Posted January 13, 2020 Share Posted January 13, 2020 5 hours ago, CECAA850 said: Follow the written directions above and you'll be fine. Agreed, that's the same drawing I followed on mine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wardsweb Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 Note the speakers are wired in parallel and out of phase. They are not wired in series. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babadono Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 Couldn't it be done either way? Depending on the load you want to drive? Two 8s in series (but out of phase) is still 16 ohms and two in parallel(but out of phase) is 4 ohms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted January 14, 2020 Author Share Posted January 14, 2020 There she is boys, just need to mount the drivers and finish the access panel. Ran into an issue when assembling the last big plate, but at the last minute I was able to reach in an knock it into place. Curious to know what the difference is between the wiring, guess I have until Wednesday to figure it out. One quick note, I need to make sure I do a better job at cutting and installing the batting. One thing I will say since I followed some of my tips and tricks from before, things did go together alot smoother and my edges are alot more flush. Just have to assemble the second one then I will paint. At least for now I can focus on getting this into my basement and tuning it this weekend. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted January 14, 2020 Author Share Posted January 14, 2020 With wiring in parallel vs series wouldnt it make it so one is more efficient where as the other has more power handling?Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 4 hours ago, Wardsweb said: Note the speakers are wired in parallel and out of phase. They are not wired in series. Looks like series, parallel wiring. Wonder why they did it that way. All the clones I've seen were series. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeJ1 Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 On 1/10/2020 at 3:54 PM, HPower said: No doubt the DST10 is a more superior sub, that will play lower, but 4 of the LAB12TH could trump 2: DST10s... ??? My Super Tapped Horn will beat both of them. Have not owned them all, but most of the major ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeJ1 Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 22 hours ago, CECAA850 said: All the clones I've seen were series. These are in series. The drivers are 4 ohms. Referring to the Spud with the Tang Band drivers, not the DTS-10, which I prefer wired in series also. BUT both of them need reverse ELECTRICAL polarities to compensate for the reverse PHYSICAL polarity of the backwards cone. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babadono Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 Looks like the Danley DTS10 is two 8 ohm drivers wired in parallel. Danley specs impedance of a DTS10 as 4 ohms. The TH SPUD is two 4 ohm drivers in series? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted January 14, 2020 Author Share Posted January 14, 2020 12 hours ago, ClaudeJ1 said: My Super Tapped Horn will beat both of them. Have not owned them all, but most of the major ones. Where's the plans? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babadono Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 17 hours ago, CECAA850 said: Looks like series, parallel wiring. Wonder why they did it that way. All the clones I've seen were series. That drawing is definitely parallel, my brother from a different mother. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babadono Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 2 hours ago, The Dude said: Where's the plans? Yea "we all wanna see the plans" ---John Lennon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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