CECAA850 Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 5 minutes ago, babadono said: That drawing is definitely parallel, my brother from a different mother. Looks parallel/series to me. Straight parallel wiring would hook all the +s together on one leg and all the -s together on the other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete H Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 This is all going to make me pull the access panel and check the wiring on the one I have in the shop. I know I followed the wiring that you did Carl and so did many others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babadono Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 The current going through SPK1 will not go through SPK2 and vice versa. They are not in series. The cones will move in opposite directions if hooked up in the polarities shown, roger that. But the impedance to the amp will be the two drivers in parallel. I'm talking about the DTS10 drawing not the TH SPUD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 2 minutes ago, Pete H said: This is all going to make me pull the access panel and check the wiring on the one I have in the shop. I know I followed the wiring that you did Carl and so did many others. I guarantee you that yours is not wired like the Danley diagram. All the ones I've ever seen were straight series with one driver wired out of phase electrically with the other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thaddeus Smith Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 @Rudy81, do I need to check mine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 5 minutes ago, babadono said: I'm talking about the DTS10 drawing not the TH SPUD. How did we get on the DTS 10? My mistake then. I thought the Danley drawing was the SPUD. Stup I'd old eyes combined with a tiny phone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babadono Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 9 minutes ago, CECAA850 said: How did we get on the DTS 10? That B the drawing Luther posted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 3 minutes ago, babadono said: That B the drawing Luther posted I saw that after I enlarged it enough to see the writing. Missed it first time around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rudy81 Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 20 minutes ago, Thaddeus Smith said: @Rudy81, do I need to check mine? No sir! When they are wired incorrectly, they don't put out much bass and sound terrible. Yours are wired correctly. But, if you are bored, you can open them up and see. 😎 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 22 hours ago, Wardsweb said: Note the speakers are wired in parallel and out of phase. They are not wired in series. I see that now. Parallel or series should depend on what load you want your amp to see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete H Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 50 minutes ago, CECAA850 said: I guarantee you that yours is not wired like the Danley diagram. All the ones I've ever seen were straight series with one driver wired out of phase electrically with the other. Mine are wired like the first diagram that you said, if you follow this, you'll be fine and I agreed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 2 minutes ago, Pete H said: Mine are wired like the first diagram that you said, if you follow this, you'll be fine and I agreed. Yep. If the drivers are 4 ohm single voice coil they can be wired for either a 2 or 8 ohm load. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete H Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 5 minutes ago, CECAA850 said: Yep. If the drivers are 4 ohm single voice coil they can be wired for either a 2 or 8 ohm load. So, after we've surely confused the builder as to what wiring diagram to use.............................on with the build. LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeJ1 Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 17 hours ago, The Dude said: Where's the plans? I'm not publishing them since the drivers I'm using are "unobtanium." I bought the last remaining pair of "Super 12's" from TC Sounds, which have a moror structure similar to their Monster 18" driver that cost a grand about 10 years ago. But if you really insist, they are nothing but a refold of a Gjallarhorn by Josh Ricci, done by redone by another DYI community member. All I did was simulate a "Slim, Wall version" that is only 17" instead of 25" like Joe's "Lowarhorn." Either way, we are talking about an approximate 22 foot tapped horn, and depending on it's position near a wall or corner with other objects in proximity, it can be an effective 24 foot horn, which gets down into the low teens as a subsonic response. Scary stuff for those who have not experienced it. So have a lobster bib and some extra toilet paper handy if you build one! LOL. Here's the link, if you wish to pursue this, but know that Joe's cut sheets are wrong for the Slim Version, which requires fewer sheets of 4x8 plywood. BTW, I got his DTS-10 because it did not fit his new home, but the refolded Gjallarhorn did, and with better performance from another 18" "unobtanium" driver from TC Sounds, now out of business. I'm using twin 12's, with the same Sd as a typical 18. A slimmer box loses efficiency, but not bandwidth!! It will also have as much output as TWO Danley DTS-10's which are the most powerful Subs I've ever owned that get down to "Subterranean BASS." https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1502990-joe-s-lowarhorn-build.html 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wardsweb Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 I agree with the people posting that it depends on what ohms your speakers are. If they are 4 ohms, you need to wire them in series, so the amp will see 8 ohms. If the speakers are 8 ohms, then wire in parallel. Then the amp will see 4 ohms. Unless you have an amp capable of driving a 2 ohm load, I would not wire 4 ohms speakers in parallel. Otherwise you will hurt the amp. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeJ1 Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 2 hours ago, Wardsweb said: I agree with the people posting that it depends on what ohms your speakers are. If they are 4 ohms, you need to wire them in series, so the amp will see 8 ohms. If the speakers are 8 ohms, then wire in parallel. Then the amp will see 4 ohms. Unless you have an amp capable of driving a 2 ohm load, I would not wire 4 ohms speakers in parallel. Otherwise you will hurt the amp. Yes, I agree. We all must practice safe amplification. To do this we must provide a load that does NOT approach a short circuit to the output stage. I prefer 8 ohms series wiring on a sub with twin 4 ohm drivers because you can use smaller gauge wire to get the sub bass there more efficiently, as long as your amp has the required higher voltage to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted January 15, 2020 Author Share Posted January 15, 2020 Claude, I am glad you brought up guage of wire. Does anyone see a problem with wiring these in series with 14 gauge or should I go 12? Hopefully dropping in the woofers tonight along with wiring. Then all that's left is access panels and carrying this baby beast down stairs. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeJ1 Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 13 hours ago, The Dude said: Claude, I am glad you brought up guage of wire. Does anyone see a problem with wiring these in series with 14 gauge or should I go 12? Hopefully dropping in the woofers tonight along with wiring. Then all that's left is access panels and carrying this baby beast down stairs. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk Wire is rated a "milliohms per foot." So it depends on how far from the amplifier your subs are located. If they are close by, you can use 14 awg, if they are farther away, you can use 12 AWG, but it doesn't really matter that much. Copper is copper, and as a former Printed Circuit Board designer, I've been a "copper slinger" all my adult life. I'm just not a fan of copper that is overpriced, like most "audiophile" cables out there, which are total Bovine Sediment and a ripoff. Spend money on modern 4K movies with Dolby Atmos, not wiring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted January 15, 2020 Author Share Posted January 15, 2020 5 hours ago, ClaudeJ1 said: Wire is rated a "milliohms per foot." So it depends on how far from the amplifier your subs are located. If they are close by, you can use 14 awg, if they are farther away, you can use 12 AWG, but it doesn't really matter that much. Copper is copper, and as a former Printed Circuit Board designer, I've be a "copper slinger" all my adult life. I'm just not a fan of copper that is overpriced, like most "audiophile" cables out there, which are total Bovine Sediment and a ripoff. Spend money on modern 4K movies with Dolby Atmos, not wiring. I'll run 12 up to the sub no doubt, its about all I run on all of my systems. I was talking more so in the sub, from driver to driver than to the connector. I suppose one would ask, "if you already have 12 up that point, why not internally as well?" Only because I was able to locate locally the correct 3/16" spade connectors for 14 awg, but not 12. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 1 hour ago, The Dude said: he correct 3/16" spade connectors You can't open the ends up a bit to accommodate the 12ga? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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