Moderators dtel Posted February 14, 2014 Moderators Share Posted February 14, 2014 Anybody have any idea how much polyfill is needed and were. I know I had seen some were at the horn exit, or opening. What kind of pollyfill. This was a pic I saved from another forum when I was making mine. Not my build, I did not use any polyfill, but here's the pic just don't know if it's the same as original design ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeJ1 Posted February 14, 2014 Share Posted February 14, 2014 (edited) I think that's the only way they can be mounted from the access panel. You can't get to the back side of that panel once it's built. Your right I think also the drivers were mounted in the center of the first panel and the second about the same space from the edge of the second panel, I don't think it's all that important. Just make sure the back of the first driver will clear the side wall, if I remember correct it was close. That was the Tang drivers from Parts express I used. Do not do what I did, wire them wrong, I was ready to throw the whole thing away. Almost no sound until after a whole day I rechecked the wiring and found I read the drawing wrong. For anyone else building these, you can just use a 9V battery to make sure the woofers push or pull TOGETHER. If not, reverse the wires on one of the drivers. Edited February 14, 2014 by ClaudeJ1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted February 14, 2014 Author Share Posted February 14, 2014 (edited) Anybody have any idea how much polyfill is needed and were. I know I had seen some were at the horn exit, or opening. What kind of pollyfill. This was a pic I saved from another forum when I was making mine. Not my build, I did not use any polyfill, but here's the pic just don't know if it's the same as original design ? I think I saved that one as well, is that just quilt batting. I added a couple of pics to. Edited February 14, 2014 by duder1982 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted February 18, 2014 Author Share Posted February 18, 2014 Has anyone ever tried these, http://www.lowes.com/pd_137391-37672-880550_0__?productId=3012575 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted February 18, 2014 Author Share Posted February 18, 2014 Well now that I have used a couple, I can see how they could be a problem. The weight of the driver might be enough to actually pull those out. I had to start small and work my way up to 1/4" so the wood wouldn't blow out. But I was able to get the #10 t nuts installed with out a problem. But I have all the t nuts installed, and the mouth opening cut out. Now I just need to work on the access panel cut out. I was thinking of mounting the binding post right on the side next to the mouth opening. Hopefully I will have more pics up tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 Hopefully I will have more pics up tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted February 19, 2014 Author Share Posted February 19, 2014 I want to cut a rabbet around the access panel opening so I have something to screw the access panel to. Would 3/4" wide by 1/4" deep be good enough or too much. So my opening would be approx 16" x 8" and my panel would be 9 1/2" by 18 1/2" by 1/4" deep. Or should I go 1/2" deep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 If you want the panel to fit semi flush while still giving both pieces the same thickness, I'd think 3/8" (assuming you're using 3/4" ply). I've never used a rabbet so take what I say with a grain of salt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 Go with 1/2 of your wood thickness or slightly more than the height of your T nuts if you plan on using those, weatherstripping works good for a seal or rope caulk would be OK but more if a mess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted February 19, 2014 Author Share Posted February 19, 2014 I think that's the only way they can be mounted from the access panel. You can't get to the back side of that panel once it's built. Your right I think also the drivers were mounted in the center of the first panel and the second about the same space from the edge of the second panel, I don't think it's all that important. Just make sure the back of the first driver will clear the side wall, if I remember correct it was close. That was the Tang drivers from Parts express I used. Do not do what I did, wire them wrong, I was ready to throw the whole thing away. Almost no sound until after a whole day I rechecked the wiring and found I read the drawing wrong. So are these to be in series or parallel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted February 19, 2014 Author Share Posted February 19, 2014 (edited) Jason, Cecaa I think you both hit it. Edited February 19, 2014 by duder1982 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 So are these to be in series or parallel. Series, wired opposite polarity of each other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 See dtels detail of the wiring on the first page of your thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted February 19, 2014 Author Share Posted February 19, 2014 I updated the photos, so here is how mu night went. Worked on cutting the access panel, wiring and lining every thing up for gluing. Its now approx 8:40 pm, time to clean up and watch Justified. Go take a shower come back down at 9 to find out Justified isn't on, well back to the basement for gluing. Next thing I know I have all the internal panels on, and before I realize I haven't taken a sec to take pics of that step. I all ready have 2 of the outer panels installed. So now I am down to the last 2 outer panels. Everything seems to be going just as the dry fit, with one little issue on one of the panels. But I will be running some silicone to make it air tight. My plan to night is finish installing the 2 outer panels, and cut the access cover, maybe install the drivers. So tomorrow or this weekend I can give this baby a test run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 (edited) Man, it looks great. I think I have those exact same saw horses. Do your legs adjust for height? Edited February 19, 2014 by CECAA850 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted February 19, 2014 Author Share Posted February 19, 2014 Man, it looks great. I think I have those exact same saw horses. Do your legs adjust for height? Hey thanks, I find if I take crappy pics no one can see my flaws . Yes the legs adjust I love those things, I have accidentally cut one( not bad enough to cause problems) and ran my router to deep once. They were my dads I tried to give them back to him but he wouldn't take them. I love how I can have them right at level with my miter saw. I was just thinking of building a new work bench something make shift to help with assisting in cabinet construction. Some times when I am working off of the saw horses, such as routeing I am slouched over and it kills my back. The best thing I can thing of is something that can be easily, quickly adjusted for height. When I am assembling cabinets, its not bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 Be sure to run the drivers on the motorboard near maximum cone extension (but don't over do it) to be sure the surrounds will clear your plywood. A tight seal is also very important on a horn, an airleak will compromise performance and i see chips missing on the motorboard. Check & repair as needed now while its apart otherwise you end up with a big plywood trash can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted February 19, 2014 Author Share Posted February 19, 2014 A tight seal is also very important on a horn, an airleak will compromise performance and i see chips missing on the motorboard. Thanks for the input, is there a way you could point out were the chips are, I know of a couple and want to make sure there aren't others I am missing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 A tight seal is also very important on a horn, an airleak will compromise performance and i see chips missing on the motorboard. Thanks for the input, is there a way you could point out were the chips are, I know of a couple and want to make sure there aren't others I am missing. Its hard to tell from your picture but i hilited what could be a concern, much easier to fix before its glued together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NBPK402 Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 Great writeup! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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