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The Dude

DIY THSPUD clone

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1 hour ago, The Dude said:

I'll run 12 up to the sub no doubt, its about all I run on all of my systems.  I was talking more so in the sub, from driver to driver than to the connector.  I suppose one would ask, "if you already have 12 up that point, why not internally as well?" Only because I was able to locate locally the correct 3/16" spade connectors for 14 awg,  but not 12.  

14 is for sure sufficient for a couple feet inside the sub itself. This is an efficient horn ain't it?:)

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You can't open the ends up a bit to accommodate the 12ga?
Yeah, but a I always attempt to use what may be considered the correct part first, if not, then I get creative.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

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14 is for sure sufficient for a couple feet inside the sub itself. This is an efficient horn ain't it?
That's what we are going to use, some scraps I have laying around.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

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2 bummers,

 

Neither of the 2 aren't the end of all things.

 

Bummer 1. My holes for one of the drivers are off, so I had to improvise and use wood screws to mount the one driver.

 

Bummer 2. Sub is done but no one around to help me carry it down stairs and its too windy for me to attempt it by myself.

 

And it turns out I didn't have any 12 awg scraps laying around.

 

ece838c0f4500c5e40cc39c2f765adbd.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

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For the amount of voltage and only being a few feet #14 is plenty big enough even if you use 1000 wpc amp. 

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On 1/15/2020 at 2:51 PM, babadono said:

14 is for sure sufficient for a couple feet inside the sub itself. This is an efficient horn ain't it?:)

You can use 20 awg inside, it really doesn't matter.

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19 hours ago, The Dude said:

2 bummers,

 

Neither of the 2 aren't the end of all things.

 

Bummer 1. My holes for one of the drivers are off, so I had to improvise and use wood screws to mount the one driver.

 

Bummer 2. Sub is done but no one around to help me carry it down stairs and its too windy for me to attempt it by myself.

 

And it turns out I didn't have any 12 awg scraps laying around.

 

 

 

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

That is one STOUT little driver, now isn't it? Tom Danley knows how to pick them. The wires and wood screws are inconsequential to making low bass.

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19 hours ago, The Dude said:

2 bummers,

 

Neither of the 2 aren't the end of all things.

 

Bummer 1. My holes for one of the drivers are off, so I had to improvise and use wood screws to mount the one driver.

 

Bummer 2. Sub is done but no one around to help me carry it down stairs and its too windy for me to attempt it by myself.

 

And it turns out I didn't have any 12 awg scraps laying around.

 

ece838c0f4500c5e40cc39c2f765adbd.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

 

 

Take this from a fellow TVIX trader, (  Dowto1000 on stocktwits  ) use 12 AWG, do it as good as you can.

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It is up and running.  I have some air leaks on my access panels that will need to be addressed, but for now, its sounding pretty good.  I received my terminal cup yesterday, so I will still have to get that installed.  I am reading about gain structure in an active system now as I feel its something I never setup correct. Things are sounding pretty good now, only hoping they sound better when done. 

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What amp are you running it with and what signal are you feeding it?  Just curious what your impressions are as you dial it in.  

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Amp is a Crown XLS2505, currently bridged, but only as I didn't feel it was enough umph. I bumped up the level to AVR, now have the gain on the power amp about 1/4 way up and there seems to be plenty of umph. When time permits I really want to set the gains correctly, checking for correct output of my AVR before distortion kicks in. Then I will unbridge it and see if there is enough umph to power it with one channel. This will allow me to run it as 1 signal In split between the 2 subs.

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9 minutes ago, The Dude said:

This will allow me to run it as 1 signal In split between the 2 subs.

 

That's how I'm running my QSC PLX1202 for my two subs. Gain knobs around 60% and AVR trim level is at +1. I do run them modestly since I don't have any DSP in place (changing soon), but with two side by side on the front stage about 15ft from the MLP I haven't ever felt they were under performing.

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12 hours ago, Thaddeus Smith said:

Gain knobs around 60% and AVR trim level is at +1

As I have been learning about gain structure, I am curious on how you came up with that equation.  I am running the trim from the AVR all the way to 12, Crown is currently bridged with gain around 1/4-1/3 of the way.  I am using a rule of thumb and mixed procedures from car audio (which I understand I may be butchering and the reason I want to spend more time correcting it).  But from what I understand, with the trim down on the AVR you may be leaving some dynamic range on the table and may not be sending enough signal to the amp.  Maybe this isn't the case with certain AVRs?   From what I understand with car audio (I don't see how it would be much different, maybe someone can explain), one would set the head unit/avr to max or close to or as far up before distortion kicks in.  Then adjust the gain on the amp from there.  If the trim is down that low, does that mean its not feeding the full/correct amount of signal to the power amp?  How does all of this come into affect with an active crossover as well?  How does one adjust the gain with the active crossover? 

 

As mentioned, I may have mixed or misunderstand some procedures that I have read about, so none of my method may be correct.  I just know with the trim down that low, I had to crank the gain on the amp, which had me worried about clipping/distortion.

 

I have read about using a DVM, oscilloscope or DD1+ to properly set the gains.   Not sure which tool is necessary, but that may be determined later.   I bump another thread in regards to gain structure, it may or may not be helpful.  

 

FYI for any of the knowledgeable experts reading this, please correct me if I am wrong.  But aren't the gain knobs more of a way to adjust the sensitivity of the amp? or at least that is how I understood it. 

 

I think I am typing just to type at this point, I am going to stop.  

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started at zero and turned it until Audyssey (XT32 + subEQ) was satisfied with a starting value (75dB? 80dB?). I will very likely be bypassing most of the Audyssey EQ stuff now that I'm moving to an active xover/DSP (yamaha sp2060) and trying to run the 2-way mains and subs through it.

 

I've started reading up on gain structure as well, and I think we're hitting some of the same sources - you seem to be heading the right direction.

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On 1/21/2020 at 10:03 AM, Thaddeus Smith said:

my Denon AVR is very quickly becoming nothing more than a video switcher and pre-amp.

I often wonder what it would take to get by with just an OPPO UDP-203.  With the HDMI in, one could run a preferred gaming system such as an XBOX One or PS4.  The only thing I would be missing is some sort of line input that could be used as a phono input for a phono preamp.   Maybe the Left and Right Channel could be ran to a RCA switch, switching between the Phono pre and the OPPO.   Out side of that, I believe the OPPO would have enough features to run any digital source.  

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12 minutes ago, The Dude said:

I often wonder what it would take to get by with just an OPPO UDP-203.  With the HDMI in, one could run a preferred gaming system such as an XBOX One or PS4.  The only thing I would be missing is some sort of line input that could be used as a phono input for a phono preamp.   Maybe the Left and Right Channel could be ran to a RCA switch, switching between the Phono pre and the OPPO.   Out side of that, I believe the OPPO would have enough features to run any digital source.  

 

I have the denon for that preamp feature of splitting two digital inputs to the appropriate audio pre-outs and TV. 98% of my media consumption is from an Nvidia Shield Pro. It supports HDR video, which is nice but ultimately not essential. Same for the hi-res audio which could be converted to PCM during playback on the Shield. Volume control and Audyssey have been the only other needed features.

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2 hours ago, Thaddeus Smith said:

Nvidia Shield Pro

Im a Shield guy myself.  How are you liking the pro version?  Is that their newest one? 

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23 minutes ago, The Dude said:

Im a Shield guy myself.  How are you liking the pro version?  Is that their newest one? 

 

Oh I've enjoyed mine for 2 or so years now. It's the previous generation Pro, which ensured the 500GB internal drive (never used) and the remote + controller. It also included an IR port, which the smaller version did not. At the time, my Harmony remote didn't support bluetooth so I need to be able to control via RF-to-IR for the closet. I'm on a newer Harmony remote now, so that requirement is null.

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2 hours ago, The Dude said:

I often wonder what it would take to get by with just an OPPO UDP-203.  With the HDMI in, one could run a preferred gaming system such as an XBOX One or PS4.  The only thing I would be missing is some sort of line input that could be used as a phono input for a phono preamp.   Maybe the Left and Right Channel could be ran to a RCA switch, switching between the Phono pre and the OPPO.   Out side of that, I believe the OPPO would have enough features to run any digital source.  

I think you would need something to control volume/gain.  (not knowing about a Xbox or the Oppo)

 

For a long time i used  DAC with a volume knob with only a streaming BR player connected, nothing else and it sounded good.

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