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Tarheel

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3 minutes ago, Tarheel said:

Our painter did it.  Followed directions but if moisture is in the slab or comes up from the ground the coating can fail.  Lucky just a tiny area....so far.

 

Never tried that but a good bit of acid etching and sealing with clear, very tough and permanent. 

The only problem I had was the last thing I did was a 12' x 12' porch and a 12'x 15' room, the clear only came in 5 gallons so I just put many coats on both and it ended up as slippery as ice. I thought the slickness would wear off kind of quickly so I didn't add any sand for traction, I was wrong, it took months for it to even get a little better. Inside it wasn't so bad but the porch was dangerous if your shoos were even slightly damp.

But I love the stuff, extremely tough and easy to work with, the clear dries in about 15 minutes and you can coat again, it applies with a normal roller and easily goes on and levels out perfectly, but does stink when drying.

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14 minutes ago, dtel said:

 

Never tried that but a good bit of acid etching and sealing with clear, very tough and permanent. 

The only problem I had was the last thing I did was a 12' x 12' porch and a 12'x 15' room, the clear only came in 5 gallons so I just put many coats on both and it ended up as slippery as ice. I thought the slickness would wear off kind of quickly so I didn't add any sand for traction, I was wrong, it took months for it to even get a little better. Inside it wasn't so bad but the porch was dangerous if your shoos were even slightly damp.

But I love the stuff, extremely tough and easy to work with, the clear dries in about 15 minutes and you can coat again, it applies with a normal roller and easily goes on and levels out perfectly, but does stink when drying.

Eldon, you need some of this, much better than sand. It will last a long time.....https://www.hcconcrete.com/product/sharkgrip/

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54 minutes ago, dtel said:

That is a great color, I haven't seen that in a long time, I can see why it was so popular. 

Looks like fingernail polish too. Don't know if it is the actual color that they used to put the laquer plus four coats of clear on the hot rods. But it literally looked like those cinnamon discs to me when I saw it!

That s&it is not cheapo acrylic paint!!

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1 hour ago, Tarheel said:

Our painter did it.  Followed directions but if moisture is in the slab or comes up from the ground the coating can fail.  Lucky just a tiny area....so far.

There are 2 part systems that you can get and have applied.  The one I'm having done is by a company that does nothing else but epoxy flooring.  It's the same industrial grade stuff they use on plants where fork lifts drive over it constantly.  They'll diamond grind the slab first to rough it up then apply it.  I think that @dwilawyer had something similar done in his garage.

 

https://www.epoxyfloorshouston.com/

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In Wisconsin (and I'm sure other places) a lot of the cheese manufacturers have the concrete floors with a top layer of concrete and a polymer of some kind. If you ever need to get through the floor it is really, really hard.

 

Bruce

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6 minutes ago, CECAA850 said:

There are 2 part systems that you can get and have applied.  The one I'm having done is by a company that does nothing else but epoxy flooring.  It's the same industrial grade stuff they use on plants where fork lifts drive over it constantly.  They'll diamond grind the slab first to rough it up then apply it.  I think that @dwilawyer had something similar done in his garage.

 

https://www.epoxyfloorshouston.com/

I'm sure they told you that if the atmospheric conditions weren't right they'd have to reschedule. Dew point was a big deal with the two part coatings I used in the 90s in FL, do not know if that could be different now. The self-leveling epoxies and urethanes are fascinating to work with.

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5 hours ago, windashine said:

 I've seen that too, on some painted floors... except when I pulled up the carpet in the den, it appeared the original house construction crew felt it necessary to apply texture and latex everywhere lol... I got it all off before the wood floor people showed up...

When I built my house the painter sprayed PVA primer all over including some on the floor. I said WTF? He said well you're just gonna cover it. I said yea but does thin set mortar adhere to PVA? And not for 6 months but 25 years ya Azzhole. You're fired. Spent the next 2 or 3 weeks cleaning it up before putting down tile and hardwood.

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1 hour ago, Ceptorman said:

Eldon, you need some of this, much better than sand. It will last a long time.....https://www.hcconcrete.com/product/sharkgrip/

It's been years now and it lost alot of the slickness, but if I recoat it I will surely use that, it was dangerous. I have seen some that had the fine sand in it and didn't like it, it felt way too coarse. I guess it also depends on how the cement is finished, inside and another piece I did was rougher and was no problem, but that slick part was really bad.

 

Thanks 

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59 minutes ago, babadono said:

When I built my house the painter sprayed PVA primer all over including some on the floor. I said WTF? He said well you're just gonna cover it. I said yea but does thin set mortar adhere to PVA? And not for 6 months but 25 years ya Azzhole. You're fired. Spent the next 2 or 3 weeks cleaning it up before putting down tile and hardwood.

You mix pva in concrete to make it stick to existing concrete better.

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1 hour ago, JohnJ said:

I'm sure they told you that if the atmospheric conditions weren't right they'd have to reschedule. Dew point was a big deal with the two part coatings I used in the 90s in FL, do not know if that could be different now. The self-leveling epoxies and urethanes are fascinating to work with.

If dew point and humidity kept them from working they'd never put a floor in around here.

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