Which amp?

[Coytee]

I've got a couple of Crown K2's that I'm biamping with.

I'm going to pull the Danley DTS-10's out of the garage and put them in the room when it's done. (much to my wifes chagrin of course....)

Would a single K2 be enough to power two DTS-10's in a home environment?

Do I really need a bazillion watts on each one of them?

Let's suppose I DO need the bazillion watts... would you run a K2 in bridged mode?

The K2 in bridged mode offers:

4 ohm, 2,500 watts

8 ohm, 1,600 watts

really?

Not really as in the wattage but really as in.... for the home?

Again, if the answer is yes, then what do the Danley's run, 4 or 8 ohm or something other?

Since I'm on Crown's, here's another question....

One reason I'm using two of them is I can go to the "5th click" on the gain control and feel they are reasonably close in gain.

If I added a K1 to the K2's, would it be reasonable to presume that the gain structure would be similar??

In other words, I could be on the "5th click" of the K2 and the "5th click" of the K1 and feel they are again, "reasonably" close? (I realize a measurement machine might tell me there is a difference in absolute gain)

[derrickdj1]

That should be a lot of power. How much can the Danley take? Will that be the only sub?

[Coytee]

It will be a pair of them. My understanding is they're capable of absorbing something like 1,000 watts. I presume that's peak and short term.

I had them on in the little apartment in Florida and didn't feel the need for tons of power however, I kept the volume (typically) MUCH lower than I'd crank at the house from time to time.

[ClaudeJ1]

Richard,

Do NOT run your amps in bridged mode. It's a 100 db/watt sub, so you will never use that much power in a house and you will either fry your outputs or trip protection circuitry. Just run a Y connector, so your mono sub signal goes to both inputs, the just use the R and L channel, one for each cabinet.

Edited March 20, 2014 by ClaudeJ1

[ClaudeJ1]

It will be a pair of them. My understanding is they're capable of absorbing something like 1,000 watts. I presume that's peak and short term.

I had them on in the little apartment in Florida and didn't feel the need for tons of power however, I kept the volume (typically) MUCH lower than I'd crank at the house from time to time.

OK, better yet, use turn the "Y input" switch in the rear to "on" position. You won't need a Y connector and connect your sub out to whichever input you like, but DO NOT Bridge, leave that off.

Normally the DTS-10's drivers are wired in Parallel, which takes the lowest impedance point down to between 2-3 ohms. The K2 will put out 1,250 watts into 2 ohms, so basically you WILL have 1,000 watts per channel available for a total of 2,000 watts. Put the DTS-10's front and rear center walls if you can. You will be capable of OVER 130 db of house shaking sub bass from that setup, which is 4X more power than what I'm using right now on mine.

BTW, that is THE perfect amp to drive those. Good things will come of it.

PS: The Danleys can handle 2 KW peaks for each cabinet but you would never use that kind of power indoors without having to replace all your windows.

Edited March 20, 2014 by ClaudeJ1