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DIY Dayton Audio 18" build thread


holtrp

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Alright,

With the JL f113 and my Velodyne 1200 SPL-R finally sold, I just placed my order for 4 Dayton Audio High Output 18" subs with the precut 4 cu ft sealed boxes and a Behringer inuke6000 DSP sold at parts express.

One bit of advice right out of the gate, I saved nearly 50% on shipping by ordering through Amazon opposed to directly buying through parts express. Living in Alaska, PE was quoting me $477 per unit to ship where as Amazon was only about $225 both with UPS ground. I don't know what the deal is. I had been emailing back and forth with PE and they were somewhat sympathetic but didn't offer a lower shipping price. Sure glad I shopped around a bit.

Anyway, I would love any advice for hooking these things up when they get here. Plan is to have them flanking the center in a small recess I have in my room co-located on top of each other. Apparently, these cut boxes are just glued together? That doesn't seem right. I have to shop around and see about some Netrick Speakon connectors, scrappy mentioned the 4 pole are the way to go just because they are a little beefier. Planning on leaving the boxes unfinished for now. Probably go with a nice black ash veneer down the road to match everything else when I get some time.

Will keep everyone posted and get some photos when I get to work.

Cheers!

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2 pole connectors are fine, you're not going to be unplugging and plugging them in every night. I've never had a problem with one.

Best place for 4 subs is one centered on each wall. Next is one in each corner.

You can use wood glue or PL Premium. You can clamp till dry or use a brad nailer and do multiple panels.

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Yeah, placing them one on each wall isn't going to work. Mid way on the front walls sounds pretty good in my room though. The main LP is all I care about and everything I have had in this position sounds pretty sharp. Maybe when I do a full remodel I can look at other positions.

So even if I use a brad nailer, still want to put some glue in I would think. That is probably what I will do because I don't have access to a bunch of clamps. What about sealing and fill? Was planning on just some decent caulking and gutting a few walmart pillows.

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You have to use wood glue or PL Premium. The brad nailer is used instead of clamps. It will hold the wood as it dries. if you don't have a brad nailer, you must clamp till dry.

The cabinet needs to be sealed air tight, nails alone won't do it. If you nail, you can assemble several panels in one session. if you clamp, it's normally one panel a day.

Edited by CECAA850
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Quick update... I naturally assumed that shipping would be the customary 7-10 business days which would have my gear arriving sometime next week right before I have to go out of town for work for two weeks.

To my surprise, the whole kit is on a truck for delivery this morning according to UPS. I guess having Anchorage as a major cargo hub from China is paying off.

I had ordered some RCA to XLR crossover cables but am now going to run over the the shack and see about some RCA to RS plug crossovers for the receiver to amp connection. I am worried about hum, signal strength and other assorted non-sense going from RCA to XLR, so I figure as long as the amp accepts unbalanced TS connectors, that is the simplest thing to do and it should work out.

Other than that, I have a chartplotter and transducer to put on our boat and some grout for a bathroom remodel plus the little guy is turning two this weekend, so I don't know how far I will get on this project. Hopefully I will get two of these up and rumbling by this weekend for a movie night!

Will post pictures as I go.

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One thing I found helpful to reduce or in my case eliminate hum and ground loop problems was to connect everything to a common source like a power conditioner/surge protector. Do you have all the clamp for the glue process? That way you get a nice tight box.

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So I am up and running.



UPS guy pointed out that the Dayton woofers were listed at 149 lbs a piece! Which could explain how I got rooked with insane shipping costs. I have a note in with PE, Amazon and UPS to figure it out. Hopefully they will make it right. Thanks UPS guy! I might not have caught that.


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I was curious about using a gasket on the driver but Dayton already has one installed, so that is a win. First impression of the driver is that this is a no frills, well built piece of equipment. This is no Mickey Mouse subwoofer. No fancy-boy silk screen or cool picture on the cone. No high- gloss powder coated spider basket. Just a serious looking sub. Well done Dayton. I like it already.


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The amps are tied in and powered up, just to make sure nothing was DOA. The Radio Shack had one single RCA to 1/4 TS connector and three Duel RCA to single 1/4" TS connector. Sort of a daisy chain menagerie but I can't think of why it wouldn't work. I played with the menu on the iNuke a bit. Will probably have to get the CPU hooked up to really play around. Definately will have to talk it out with Scrappy to get some sort of procedure together to limit the output from this thing and fully understand the PEQ and crossover features. Some people think the silver face Behringers look bad. I kind of like them. I own two German designed vehicles, and I should love these amps if they are anything like the cars they build.

I do have everything hooked up through a decent surge protector, but have experienced some hum action after introducing XLR crossover parts into my system. Good god I hope that is not an issue with this project. Ground loop hums are miserable.

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Edited by holtrp
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Flat packs are awesome. Very well cut. A fifth grader could piece them together. The only annoying thing for me was the popcorn styrofoam packing. I hate popcorn styrofoam.



I have all braces glued and should finish the baffles tonight. Using Tite-bond III it says right on the bottle to glue and clamp for 30 mins, which is what I have been doing and then don't stress the glue for 24 hours. I am using 4 24" 600 lbs wood clamps I picked up from Lowes on clearance. I am pretty confident I am using enough glue. A fair amount runs out the seams after I put a piece together then gets wiped up with a damp cloth. I also have 4 6" C Clamps in reserve for the sideboards and top / bottom when I get to that. No need for brad nails yet. I figure with gravity doing it's thing with the braces, there is no need. I may end up not even using them at all. We’ll see how it goes. I estimate I have about ~10 hours worth of gluing left to do. I was thinking about getting greedy and doing 3 sides at a time per box, but decided against it. Just take my time and make sure it is tight doing each panel one by one.


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