Bill W. Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 C2 is the only cap change needed, from 2.0uf to 1.0uf. You are correct on the autoformer taps, midrange changes from tap 2 to tap 1, tweeter changes from tap 3 to tap 2. If you look at the schematic of the E network, you will notice the polarity reversal for the midrange and tweeter is done on the 'back' side of the terminal block. it is easier to simply reverse the black and red leads for the midrange and tweeter on the 'front' side of the terminal block to achieve the same result. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelman Posted April 8, 2014 Author Share Posted April 8, 2014 C2 is the only cap change needed, from 2.0uf to 1.0uf. You are correct on the autoformer taps, midrange changes from tap 2 to tap 1, tweeter changes from tap 3 to tap 2. If you look at the schematic of the E network, you will notice the polarity reversal for the midrange and tweeter is done on the 'back' side of the terminal block. it is easier to simply reverse the black and red leads for the midrange and tweeter on the 'front' side of the terminal block to achieve the same result. Ok thats what I did to make it a D crossover what you said changed them on the "front" side. But to make this a C would I keep them all in phase or out? I started to get used to that "scooped" E sound. Today I turned on the tone knobs. Slightly boosted the high and bass. Not to shabby now I did it really to see if I could come close to what the C might sound like. Of course the whole woofer would be more in line with the midrange and highs. So it would probably be even better sounding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill W. Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 The type D and type C crossovers maintain the same polarity to all drivers. Only the type E crossover reverses polarity to the midrange and tweeter relative to the woofer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelman Posted April 14, 2014 Author Share Posted April 14, 2014 (edited) Ok thanks I think I got it. Edited April 17, 2014 by wheelman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelman Posted April 27, 2014 Author Share Posted April 27, 2014 Thanks Bill W. for all the help its back to factory "C" spec now ( even the jumpers correct). Very warm/ lush, full balanced sound. Bass is back and I can here drum kits again, and bass guitar separation from kick drums. Most recordings are forgiving now almost zero fatigue. Thats just mp3's to records are even better. Its gonna stay this way. Here is a photo just to make sure. Thanks to the forum for all the knowledge available ( schematics and much more), and my brother for doing most the work. The Crites family for superb customer service, and fast shipping of my caps. For the OCD types I know I didn't have another black tie for the other cap. I almost put on another white one, but wasn't sure this would be staying this way. I recycled everything pretty much from the crossover so I would hear the true differences. The squaker wire was a tight fit. Almost changed that out but we got around that by snipping just a bit off the collar of the spade so the wire would just fit to the transformer. Its all good so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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