Heritage_Head Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 Im looking to get quotes on the kpt-904 (want 3 of them). Please post any recommendations who would sell and deliver them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappydue Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 american cinema equipment. should come up as cinequip.com that is the ONLY people i have asked about as i think that is who klipsch reccomended me to when i called them to try and find a place to actually go hear them. or you can google your a$s off and see if you can find a cinema closing down! or maybe one local that has klipsch that may be upgrading stuff? cant hurt to try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 Where are you? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heritage_Head Posted May 4, 2014 Author Share Posted May 4, 2014 MN, st paul area Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 pm sent 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvu80 Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 pm sent LOL, I knew it! I thought of you when I saw this posting! Darn, I'm good! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 (edited) I don't know what's going on, but I've received three emails in the last two days about crossovers for this type of stuff. They are designed for behind the screen applications, and though you can order them with passives, they are minimalistic and will run the top too hot for the home. They are normally run with active networks, and I'm sure the settings are probably in the manual. Doing a low order filter for a three way is pretty simple, doing something for a two-way with a driver on a horn with falling response at 8kHz is something else altogether. Because of the simple, low part count design, they cross higher than one think they should, but it makes perfect sense. There is probably a single resistor used to attenuate the horn, and I would just increase its value by a couple of ohms. Edited May 11, 2014 by DeanG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhendrix Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 I don't know what's going on, but I've received three emails in the last two days about crossovers for this type of stuff. They are designed for behind the screen applications, and though you can order them with passives, they are minimalistic and will run the top too hot for the home. They are normally run with active networks, and I'm sure the settings are probably in the manual. Doing a low order filter for a three way is pretty simple, doing something for a two-way with a driver on a horn with falling response at 8kHz is something else altogether. Because of the simple, low part count design, they cross higher than one think they should, but it makes perfect sense. There is probably a single resistor used to attenuate the horn, and I would just increase its value by a couple of ohms. Hi Dean, Rigma scored a bunch of these from a theater. All equipped with simple, 2nd order passive networks, two caps, two inductors, no resistors. I have had 3 for mains L-C-R and they sound GREAT! The top is not too hot for home. The HF is 3-4db hotter than the bottom, but that was easily correct by Audyssey. In my room, Audyssey cut the HF by 2 db and boosted LF by 1 db. The DE75 driver on the 510 horn is a magic combination. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beeker Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Im running 5 pro heresys+pro subs and not comparable to some although bigger is apparently better...more efficient for that matter. Get 7 402's and then look for a house that provides the room....I mean 1st things first 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappydue Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 I don't know what's going on, but I've received three emails in the last two days about crossovers for this type of stuff. They are designed for behind the screen applications, and though you can order them with passives, they are minimalistic and will run the top too hot for the home. They are normally run with active networks, and I'm sure the settings are probably in the manual. Doing a low order filter for a three way is pretty simple, doing something for a two-way with a driver on a horn with falling response at 8kHz is something else altogether. Because of the simple, low part count design, they cross higher than one think they should, but it makes perfect sense. There is probably a single resistor used to attenuate the horn, and I would just increase its value by a couple of ohms. i just thought maybe it could be glorified like the rest you have done. I guess I won't worry about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 I'm flattered, really I am. But consider, and everyone really needs to understand this: I'm not an engineer, "crossover guru", or a super tech. What I am is someone mostly like a lot of you guys -- someone with a lot of experience, and through trial and error has figured out what it takes to get things sounding good. In my case, a lot of that relates to variables that need to be identified before I build something for someone (room size, how the speakers are placed, how far back the listener sits, the type of equipment that's being used, and the type of music). Someone might argue that this version of "good" is just my version of "good" - and though that's true, it turns out that no one seems to have a problem with how I define it. I'm also a decent builder, and the OCD works for me here. Now, that's not to say I haven't picked up some things along the way, and I usually do a pretty good job of remembering things, though I've noticed some slippage in that department. Okay, So if a get an email from someone asking me to design a network for some drivers and horns they picked up off of eBay, I can tell you that that's not going to happen. Now, I could probably hack something out, and it would probably work decently enough, but it wouldn't be optimized, not by a long shot. It would be irresponsible and unethical for me to lead someone to believe that I'm capable of doing something that I'm not. Early on, I used to go through the gyrations of gathering as much information as possible and then wrestling with whether I could make a run at it. In some cases I did, but not without the help of DJK, who besides being a really cool person, also happens to be a walking driver database and scientific calculator. The legwork is really time consuming, and keep in mind, you don't get paid for the leg work. If the person has done all of the information gathering in advance, the project becomes more interesting. Sometimes you can get away with just connecting two or three drivers together with a simple filter, attenuate things, and walk away feeling pretty good about it. This is basically what PWK did with the old Heritage stuff. Part of his genius was picking parts that he knew would cooperate with him. It only takes one thing to be out of place and then it's fly by the seat of your pants engineering. Things get better if you have the speaker and the parts in front of you, because you can work with them, and even though it won't be a truly optimized filter, you can get things souding pretty good. That's very hard to do with email and some scant numbers. I know enough to know what I can't do, what probably shouldn't be done, and when someone else is doing something that's going to get them into trouble. Even people who know better are now making claims about things that just aren't true. It drives me nuts, but I just try to keep my mouth shut as much as possible, because saying anything at all just means some form of infantile response or retaliation. Though I know this comes off as a partial rant, it's mostly an explanation of why I don't take on certain types of work. I can improve the sound being delivered from your passives, but I can't redesign them. Yes, the K-510 can go down to 500Hz, but only if the filter is redesigned for 24dB/octave. Like Bill said, the passives are currently 12dB/octave. Even though the current passives are simple and have a crossover point a little higher than you might like, as least they're "right". By that I mean, the acoustic response is correct (the electrical response of the filter is combined with the acoustic behavior of the driver/horn). The more parts you add to the filter to steepen the slopes, the more phase shift you have. If you get this stuff and it wears on the ears, I can smooth it out with better parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heritage_Head Posted May 12, 2014 Author Share Posted May 12, 2014 Im going to be runing them behind a AT screen. But I would guess the theater screen would be harder to push through. Macc should eq them down if it needs to but wont know for sure tell they are here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappydue Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 I can improve the sound being delivered from your passives, but I can't redesign them. Yes, the K-510 can go down to 500Hz, but only if the filter is redesigned for 24dB/octave. Like Bill said, the passives are currently 12dB/octave. Even though the current passives are simple and have a crossover point a little higher than you might like, as least they're "right". By that I mean, the acoustic response is correct (the electrical response of the filter is combined with the acoustic behavior of the driver/horn). The more parts you add to the filter to steepen the slopes, the more phase shift you have. thats all i needed to hear. it was just a question that needed a straight answer. If you get this stuff and it wears on the ears, I can smooth it out with better parts. this is another thing i was wondering about. if you were interested in doing it i would be game to see what we could work out. thanks dean, and ranting is good for you! so preach on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 I just realized we hijacked the thread. Sorry. Here you go: http://panaceaengineering.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 So anyways -- you can take a couple of different approaches on these. There is the affordable version, and then there is the more expensive version. Both will sound better than what's in there now. I would probably want to pad the tops down a little with L-pads using high quality resistors (Mills non-inductives). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heritage_Head Posted May 13, 2014 Author Share Posted May 13, 2014 I just realized we hijacked the thread. Sorry. Here you go: http://panaceaengineering.com/ Lol thanks dean but i ordered them already. They should be here any minute Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappydue Posted May 14, 2014 Share Posted May 14, 2014 So anyways -- you can take a couple of different approaches on these. There is the affordable version, and then there is the more expensive version. Both will sound better than what's in there now. I would probably want to pad the tops down a little with L-pads using high quality resistors (Mills non-inductives).could we discuss pricing on this over a pm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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