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kodomo

Got two K33 woofers, want to build a horn sub with them!

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I have a great system that I am very happy with. My system is built upon klipschorn with volti horns 2"throats and BMS drivers, plus a beyma tweeter I time aligned and put on top. I have crites 1526c woofers in the bassbin and have volti crossovers too.

I am very happy with my corners as well and could go down to 40hz without much loss. I have a klipsch home theater sub, that is less than satisfactory in movies and completely useless in 2channel listening. That is why I decided to build my own horn subwoofer! I just need to fill 20hz to 40hz with as little as distortion as possible. I know it can be big, but I have space and no worries about waf.

My initial thoughts are tapped or folded horns as I read they work better with khorns. I also like a full horn system. I have 10 feet ceilings so I can have a tall tapped horn with maybe one fold that would be easier to build. I am not sure which design would be more appropiate for utilizing my k33s though! I am sure there are lot different and better ideas.

I am working very hard and only have Sundays and nights, so I cant build a few different ones and try em out. I am waiting to hear about your experiences and help! And if any day you decide to visit sunny Antalya, Turkey, you are welcome to listen to music at my place :)

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Welcome to the forum!

You will need to find somebody who is proficient at hornresp. There is a decent newb guide for hornresp. There are different TS parameters for the square and round magnet K-33's, and they are both available for download in the Klipsch Heritage woofer T/S spec thread.

Good luck with your project!

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Thanks mustang guy! I will document my project over here.

I am on mac os x, so hornresp doesn't work on my os. The program seems easy enough, I will have to find a friend with a windows machine and try my best.

I also think of adding a plate amp on it with a built in filter. Do you guys think this one http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sa100-100w-subwoofer-plate-amplifier--300-802 would be enough. It is rated 100watts and I think a suitable horn would be efficient enough...

Lilmike's Cinema F-20 uses 15" woofers, maybe I can substitute k33's for the eminence?

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I also think of adding a plate amp on it with a built in filter. Do you guys think this one http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sa100-100w-subwoofer-plate-amplifier--300-802 would be enough. It is rated 100watts and I think a suitable horn would be efficient enough...

Parts express has the 300 watt plate amps on sale for 125 right now.

Lilmike's Cinema F-20 uses 15" woofers, maybe I can substitute k33's for the eminence?

Lilmike's F-20 is based on a Dayton driver.

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The K-33-E is just close enough in spec to work in a THT with a 100 watt or so amp as long as its under 8" deep.

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The K-33-E is just close enough in spec to work in a THT with a 100 watt or so amp as long as its under 8" deep.

Would it work in an F-20 as well?

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Not the best tool for the job but it will work in the F-20 also.

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I can go for a THT. Its 36x36x24 inches. I can make the taller and narrower version too... Which dimension are you referring to for 8" deep? Is it the driver placement? I may get these plans, cut the pieces in cnc and just glue them at my place! I guess birchwood plywood would work.

How about a double k33 in an enclosure?

Edited by kodomo

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Which dimension are you referring to for 8" deep?

I believe driver depth.

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Yes, 8" would be the driver depth.

Double 15" cabinet won't work, you would need to build 2 cabinets.

24" cabinet of either version would be a good choice.

Quality Baltic Birch, Auraco 5 ply or any quality 4-5 ply void free 1/2" plywood is what you will need, nothing with a thin outer veneer.

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I'll build one then.

So, the dimensions will be 24x18x72 for me if I go with the tall version.

I can find mostly any kind of wood. Which one would be the most desirable for the job, the birch or the plywoods?

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Dosent really matter, the cabinet is very well braced when built correctly.

Void free, 4-5 ply & no thin veneer will be best.

Edited by jason str

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Are u using some sort of digital processor to time align?

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My 2 cents. Look at the forest for a minute.

You can sell the 3 K33's very quickly in the garage sale section and buy new subwoofers from Partsexpress that are more ideal for the encloures.

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I would like to build an mwm bin and try a K-33 in it. I actually have two perfect round magnet K-33's. Ever since I read Claude's post about the MWM being designed around the K-33, I have been wondering...

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I would like to build an mwm bin and try a K-33 in it. I actually have two perfect round magnet K-33's. Ever since I read Claude's post about the MWM being designed around the K-33, I have been wondering...

Bob Crites cast frame is the replacement for the K-33, it's what I used in the MWM's, I don't have a way to measure anything but it sounds good to me.

The ones I use in the yard have K-43's so it's impossible to compare but for inside I went with BOB's after talking to Claude also.

Welcome Kodomo

Edited by dtel

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Thank you guys for the warm welcomes :)

I don't think it would be practical to send the woofers from Antalya, Turkey to U.S. and get drivers from there. Too much shipping and customs hassles will ensue.

MWM bins does not match what I want...

I am not using digital processors, I have physically put the tweeters horizontally in line with the mids. Then moved them back enough so I do not need to send a delayed signal to them.

I decided to build the THT low profile. I am on the verge of getting a driver for it and keep my k33s with the rest of the stuff I have for a cornscala project!

Edited by kodomo

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MWM bins does not match what I want...

Your right there not a subwoofer, just regular bass bins.

The rest of what you said sounds like a good plan. :emotion-21:

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