philly0116 Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 I cant help but notice all the stuff about people applying sound deadener material to the RF-7. I watched a video on youtube as well about it. The guy on youtube used 4mm Bitumex which for the life of me I cant find in the U.S. I guess my question is how much does this improve performance and what could I use in place of that Bitumex? I thought about some spray on stuff but getting the same thickness on all sides could be difficult. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 Dynamat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philly0116 Posted June 9, 2014 Author Share Posted June 9, 2014 (edited) Dynamat? That's the first thing I thought of I just wasn't sure how it compared to this Bitumex that I keep reading about. That and I was not sure how important thickness of the material was. Edited June 9, 2014 by philly0116 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 I'd think that anything that would deaden the horn would work. Some say the mod does nothing, others swear by it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 Sounds like religion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 Dynamat for the horns is much more effective than rope caulk or duct seal. Bitumen would be useful on panels but eats up a lot of volume I would much rather brace and stiffen to push up panel resonance well oup of the drivers bandpass so then there is zero issue and nothing to have to dam past the cabinet volume. Best regards Moray James. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 (edited) The RF-7 requires a network modification to reduce the ringing from the woofers. A common problem here: people get used to something in the sound that doesn't belong, and either grow used to it and do nothing, or it makes them crazy - and they begin chasing and implementing various solutions to fix the problem. Thankfully in this case, we know what the problem is and how to fix it. Replacing the epoxy coated oval capacitors in series with the horn, as well as the resistors, makes a significant positive impact as well. Edited June 10, 2014 by DeanG 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cradeldorf Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 (edited) I used gutter seal on my horns it comes in roll form from menards. It's tar and is about an 1/8" thick by 4" wide has white platic on one side and is sticky on the other. cut, peel, and stick. I put 2 layers on my horns. As for my woofers I used 1" wide by 1/4" thick foam seal, It also comes in roll form from menards, cut chunks and affix to the inside spokes of the woofer baskets, then peel off the paper on the other side of the foam once you've stuck it on.. cover the entire inside of the spokes with it but don't block the basket holes at all. It really made a difference for the better on my KLF 30's. Edited June 11, 2014 by cradeldorf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvu80 Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 On 6/9/2014 at 12:07 PM, CECAA850 said: I'd think that anything that would deaden the horn would work. Some say the mod does nothing, others swear by it. I used clear pure Silicon seal on mine, about 12 oz per driver. There is no question that it deadens the wave guide, according to my yet-to-be-verifed but highly acclaimed "knuckle rap test." I would say it lowers the pitch about 1/3 of an octave. In my highly subjective yet 98.4% accurate "listening test" listening to music, I could not hear any difference at all between my modded tweeter and the stock unit. There is a yellow sticker on the end of the horn's CD which says "63." FYI the compression driver on the left is a DNA-360 and is attached to a 12" SEOS waveguide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 Bu far and away, the best and cheapest mod you can do the RF-7 is the resistor mod. You'd have to be half deaf NOT to hear the difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philly0116 Posted June 11, 2014 Author Share Posted June 11, 2014 Bu far and away, the best and cheapest mod you can do the RF-7 is the resistor mod. You'd have to be half deaf NOT to hear the difference. That sounds scary! Resistor mod!? I will have to do some homework. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 It's really easy. Just hot glue the resistor to the board next to the existing resistor, wrap the leads around the edge of the board and put a dot of solder to parallel them with the neighboring resistor. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philly0116 Posted June 11, 2014 Author Share Posted June 11, 2014 It's really easy. Just hot glue the resistor to the board next to the existing resistor, wrap the leads around the edge of the board and put a dot of solder to parallel them with the neighboring resistor. Pardon my ignorance but I would need to buy another resistor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 It's really easy. Just hot glue the resistor to the board next to the existing resistor, wrap the leads around the edge of the board and put a dot of solder to parallel them with the neighboring resistor. Pardon my ignorance but I would need to buy another resistor? The only bad question is the one you don't ask. You'll need one of THESE per speaker. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philly0116 Posted June 11, 2014 Author Share Posted June 11, 2014 It's really easy. Just hot glue the resistor to the board next to the existing resistor, wrap the leads around the edge of the board and put a dot of solder to parallel them with the neighboring resistor. Pardon my ignorance but I would need to buy another resistor? The only bad question is the one you don't ask. You'll need one of THESE per speaker. I have always liked good sound and have never dabbled in the technical aspect of the hobby....what exactly will these resistors do for the speaker? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 what exactly will these resistors do for the speaker? What were you trying to accomplish with the silicone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philly0116 Posted June 11, 2014 Author Share Posted June 11, 2014 what exactly will these resistors do for the speaker? What were you trying to accomplish with the silicone? Gotcha. So it will help reduce the brightness and shrillness of the horn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philly0116 Posted June 11, 2014 Author Share Posted June 11, 2014 So hot glue the resistor to the board where the finger is pointing, then wrap leads underneath and solder to where the existing resistor is already soldered....that seems easy enough. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 (edited) NO! That's the wrong board. It goes on the bottom board next to (and paralleled to) the 2 Ohm 10 watt resistor. Edited June 11, 2014 by CECAA850 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 Gotcha. So it will help reduce the brightness and shrillness of the horn. Correct. It's an amazing little mod that I can take absolutely no credit for. The information was provided to me by Dean, he credited someone else for trying several different resistors until they came up with the correct value. I don't recall who he said did the leg work though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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