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"Automotive" subs vs. home audio subs


fuzzydog

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it would seem that "automotive" sub drivers would be more robust to withstand the extra vibrations from the road. Anyone use automotive subs in their home theaters?

Home and audio subs use many of the same materials and are happy in either domain. My IB has drivers that were used in automotive application and home use. TS parameters are a better indication of where a sub driver works best.

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Auto subs are designed for a 50 Hz. peak. NOT high fi, just designed to make sure hearing aid sales will go way up in 30 years while pissing everyone off today.

Absolutely, no need to tune low.

Cabin gain starts at a higher frequency in such a small space.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Cars have a 6db or so rising response curve starting about 50 hz, rooms in houses are I believe MUCH lower before room response kicks in. That said a driver is a driver, measure the parameters and build a box to suit and it should do more or less as predicted, which is for car drivers in houses, not so good.

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I have a JL Audio driver that I need to try and get rid of. I was going to do a project with my car and decided against it. I don't think there's a lot of difference driver wise, I think it's all in the cabinets. I've had Reactor Core subs hooked up to a system before that put out some immense bass and LFE just like you'd expect from an HT sub, they were just ugly as hell.

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  • 3 months later...

Auto subs are designed for a 50 Hz. peak. NOT high fi, just designed to make sure hearing aid sales will go way up in 30 years while pissing everyone off today.

 

So you are saying you dont enjoy listening to Skrillex and Lil John played through a Honda Civic trunk?

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I believe as long as the enclosure is built correctly and with quality drivers that are not overpowered should sound good.  I had an idea of building a tunnel port system from the enclosure to underneath a couch or a sound deadening mini box to decrease port noise if using ported enclosures.

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It's mostly all in the marketing.  Take the Dayton Ultimax for example, home theater buffs as well as bass-head car owners are all raving about the things.  HT guys love them and it's seemingly designed for that, except a Dayton guy told me the cones were designed to take abuse from loose stuff in a car trunk.  

 

Take Rockford Fosgate, nobody would ever think of using it in a home theater except maybe me.  TC Sounds is considered to be about the best home theater sub yet people stick them in their cars with great results.  

 

Guess what's the latest hot topic in the car audio world?  Yeah, putting pro audio drivers in there, they work great.  

 

Take this very JL Audio product and what does it say on their site?  "Variants of the W7 are used in our ultra-premium Fathom® and Gotham® powered home subwoofers, which have received top ratings and recommendations from the world’s leading reviewers and are in daily use at some of the world’s top recording and mastering studios."

 

Those "Gotham's" are running $6,700 for two 13.5's in a home theater setup.  Obviously they're quite proud of them.  Same driver family.  

 

It just doesn't matter.  Some subs work better in cars due to being able to put it in a smaller box but that has nothing to do with whether it is a car or home theater sub.  

Edited by MetropolisLakeOutfitters
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  • 2 months later...

Auto subs are designed for a 50 Hz. peak. NOT high fi, just designed to make sure hearing aid sales will go way up in 30 years while pissing everyone off today.

 

Now Claude, you know not everyone listens to a nasty peak in their vehicles:

 

post-9504-13819499045806_thumb.gif
 
That was at the headrest, with no eq applied, just a sealed enclosure. Amplifier was a 1kw Soundstream, driver is an Acoustic Elegance AV12X in a sealed box. The other curve was measured outside.
Edited by michael hurd
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Auto subs are designed for a 50 Hz. peak. NOT high fi, just designed to make sure hearing aid sales will go way up in 30 years while pissing everyone off today.

 

Now Claude, you know not everyone listens to a nasty peak in their vehicles:

 

 
 
That was at the headrest, with no eq applied, just a sealed enclosure. Amplifier was a 1kw Soundstream, driver is an Acoustic Elegance AV12X in a sealed box. The other curve was measured outside.

 

OK, so it's a 70 Hz. peak we have to put up with.

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I keep getting surprised by the lack of knowledge aboot car audio subs in this forum.

 

just because I have 2 JL audio 12" subs, and a JL 500 watt amp, doesn't mean I want to crack my windows, or piss off other drivers. I want BASS!!!! and I have yet to hear a stock system in a car that comes anywhere close to an aftermarket system. I'm not doing 2 twelves to impress my "homies!" I bought them because I want to hear clean bass in my car.

 

just because youthman has 2 or 3 15" subs doesn't mean he wants to piss off the neighbors or damage his hearing. he wants B-A-S-S!!!!! and the only way to get any type of performance bass is to add a sub or two.

 

thanks for letting me vent. really pisses me off to hear some of the ignorant comments I hear aboot car audio subs here!

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Are you asking about the drivers or cabinets?

Drivers. Specifically; I was checking out at stout looking JL subwoofer drivers at http://www.jlaudio.com/car-audio-subwoofer-drivers-w7ae

 

if you are buying raw drivers make sure you follow JL's directions aboot cabinet size, etc.

 

I bought my first JL cabinet a while back, and I am very happy. I have yet to turn the volume past aboot 1/2 way.

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just because youthman has 2 or 3 15" subs doesn't mean he wants to piss off the neighbors or damage his hearing. he wants B-A-S-S!!!!! and the only way to get any type of performance bass is to add a sub or two.

Youthman has a good sized home theater. Even a smallish one can be 3,000 cubic feet in volume. A typical car's interior volume is less than 100, like a Mustang is 85, and a large Challenger is 110. Two 12's and a 500 watt amp in a car can EASILY blow away a typical home theater. My two 18's with an iNuke 6000 flexing the hell out of them is nowhere near what my two 12's in my car could do. I used to hit 132 db with two 12's in an isobaric box and a 100 watt Wal-Mart amp. 500 watts and a standard box can in fact be insane. I've seen a single 15 with a 250 watt amp hit around 155 db. All this was back when we just played rap songs for spl competitions so these numbers could be hit all day long, it wasn't a short "burp" like they do now.

really pisses me off to hear some of the ignorant comments I hear aboot car audio subs here!

I used to travel around and compete in IASCA meets. Two good friends of mine have made it to nationals, my best friend had an ambulance filled with crap and was in drag db competitions. Used to live real close to a factory that made some of your JL's and another good friend of mine built the things, I used to pick up factory extras for way cheap to sell on eBay. Had a side business back in the day where I built and installed car audio for local guys. I know way more about car audio than home theater. You'll just have to be pissed off about it I guess. :)

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