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Slim Cornscala out of khorn parts


kodomo

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I was going to divide the cabinet internally to keep a similar volume with the cornwall. However I do not have to do that. I have more internal volume undivided. The cornwall's internal volume is around 14000 cu.in. but mine is 23000 cu.in. undivided.

As I have more volume, how can use it to my advantage. I can have deeper bass I guess but how should I change the port? Can anyone help me with this?

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Yes, your drawing is exactly what I was describing. :) I would stick to the same ratios on the port size. i.e. If you have 10 sq inches of port for the 14000 cu. in. cabinet just figure out how many sq. in. of port there is per cu. in. of box and up it that much for the 23000 cu.in box. ;)

Edited by cradeldorf
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I was going to divide the cabinet internally to keep a similar volume with the cornwall. However I do not have to do that. I have more internal volume undivided. The cornwall's internal volume is around 14000 cu.in. but mine is 23000 cu.in. undivided.

As I have more volume, how can use it to my advantage. I can have deeper bass I guess but how should I change the port? Can anyone help me with this?

You'd need to plug your displacement into a box calculator and play with different length ports. Of course you don't have TS parameters (do you?) so you won't know what's happening to the woofer at different frequencies. If you DO have TS parameters, just use winisd.

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I was going to divide the cabinet internally to keep a similar volume with the cornwall. However I do not have to do that. I have more internal volume undivided. The cornwall's internal volume is around 14000 cu.in. but mine is 23000 cu.in. undivided.

As I have more volume, how can use it to my advantage. I can have deeper bass I guess but how should I change the port? Can anyone help me with this?

I highly recommend NOT tuning lower than 40Hz. Keep the tuning 40-42Hz and let the extra size of the cabinet offer the advantage of less "drop-off" of the LF curve below 100Hz.

There is a difference of what the woofer "can do" and if it sounds worth a crap or not.

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I have identified the crossovers I have and they are not AK-3. They are AK-4's made from Dean's schematics. Hope they work for me :)

I will not tune the box lower than 40hz. Today I will take some photos and share here of the developments.

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Parts have been mostly cut. I love the tools that help you get precise cuts. There will be absolutely no leaks in my box!

I will mount the 401 horn from outside rather than inside. I will flush mount the woofers. I just put the drivers and horns for photo purposes to have a reference. I am also planning putting felt inside the box all around. I have some good felt I used in another speaker project.

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I suggest not using MDF with membrane. bare MDF is also a not good choice IMO. Baltic Birch plywood is better. you also have access to fingerjoint massive wood panels in Turkey. www.woodpan.com makes some nice massive wood panels I used to use them in some projects some years ago.

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I have a problem. Everything is working but the tweeters. I thought there may be something wrong with the crossovers, so I tried connecting the tweeters directly to the amp, full range, just for a test. No crossovers but still both of them are unresponsive?

It seems like I am missing something here! Any help?

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I checked all that. I tried connecting a 9v battery to test if there is any sound coming out at all, and none! Still, I installed both crossovers and made all the connections except the tweeter. I will wait till my fostex arrive and install my volti t1's to these.

I also plan on dividing the cabinets into two. I couldnt fit both of them in my 4 door wrangler!

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  • 4 years later...

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