I believe you have to remove the horns and drivers to get them out. But I could be wrong.
Are you the ham in Groton? If so, you probably know the following. But the benefit of everyone . . . .
I always recommend that you take pictures and make diagrams and mark wires with tabs of masking tape with notations of what goes where. In my experience it is helpful to proceed as if my stupid self on Day 2 will need the notes my smart self made on Day 1. Really. YMMV.
Of importance is which wires go to which side of the drivers to maintain proper polarity. The voice coil / diaphragm assemblies should be marked with a (+) or red spot at the factory but make sure you note these on the original and replacement units. And also make observations about the woofer in a similar fashion. Note that in a zip cord like pair, usually one wire is marked with a stripe.
It may also be helpful to have a bottle of clear nail polish on hand. It may be that the screws mounting the drivers are in fiberboard which can flake. Hardening up the holes with clear nail polish and letting it dry will harden up the .threads in the fiberboard If the holes / threads strip out you may have to add a sliver of a toothpick.
De-soldering is a bit of an art. As James said, a bulb type solder sucker does the job. Available at Radio Shack You may find the hole in the nozzle gets clogged with solder and you'll have to force it out with a paper clip. Solder wick (also at RS) works too in that it is used to absorb the molten solder.
I am so, so, so in agreement with James about temperature regulated soldering stations. Over the long years I've spent hundreds of bucks on non-regulated soldering irons which always seem too hot or too cold, or both at once. My recently purchased Weller station is magic. I can't say enough.. There are others too, but I like my Weller. (Just for the record, a Weller soldering gun can be good in some situations but some experience is needed to get a feel for the temperature.)
Let me disagree with James on a point. 60-40 solder is widely used and available. It does have a slushy stage if not heated properly and cools or something moves while it is cooling (making a "cold solder joint"). This and similar mixtures are somewhat eutectic. Eutectic means the lowering of the melting point of the lead-tin alloy is lower than either lead or tin.
The actual eutectic mix is a 63-37 combination. It has a slightly lower melting temperature, and therefore solidifying, temperature, than 60-40. But also, it does not have a slushy phase. The stuff is expensive. If you want a yard of it I can mail it to you if you PM me through the board.
Please take lots of pictures and post them and a description of your work in a thread. You can be our new expert and educator.
Edited by William F. Gil McDermott, 24 July 2014 - 08:26 PM.