Arash Posted July 24, 2014 Share Posted July 24, 2014 I'm building a LS cabinet with curved sides and I'm looking for opinions about which way to go. for curve parts I can use 8-9 layers of 3mm (1/8"?) baltic birch and laminate them under vacuum press to shape the curve. I also have CNC router and I can cut slices with massive hard wood to put together to shape the curve wall. shapeing BB under vacuum bag is tricky but can be done with some try and error but the CNC slice method is a much easier process and the final result doesn't need final veneer as it is the real thing itself. from acoustic point of view, which one do you prefer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coytee Posted July 24, 2014 Share Posted July 24, 2014 I've always understood that plywood is better because solid wood is less stable (will expand/contract with humidity) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Full Range Posted July 24, 2014 Share Posted July 24, 2014 It depends on the wood Hardwoods will crack as they age If you want stable wood then quality furniture woods are best but very very expensive For stability reasons I will also recommend ply or high density MDF, or a combination of both I would also recommend double thickness up to 50mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arash Posted July 24, 2014 Author Share Posted July 24, 2014 actually massive woods are not one-piece woods. some kinda like plywood but they are big sheet of woods made up lots of 2" slices machined and joint together. I found them more stable against humidity and heat. the pieces are tightly joint into each other resulting in a very strong surface. it's really hard one can find a weak joint. I tried some times to break a piece from joint area but didn't wok. I increased the pressure a lot and whole the test object ripped apart. I comapres 18mm BB plywood against 18mm finger joint and finger joint stood ~20% more pressure. these panels are expensive but that's a no subject in this project, my matter is that vacuum bag veneering is not a usual and common technique in my country and I doubt I can veneer the whole cabinet after assembly and if I use BB plywood. I love BB plywood and they give a a good feel but they need veneering in which my ability remains to be tested. this is a massive fingerjoint hard wood panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Full Range Posted July 24, 2014 Share Posted July 24, 2014 We call that laminated timber Arash It's commonly used as kitchen timber tops A word of warning - it will buckle and warp unless it's either framed or is sitting on a frame It needs to be supported Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joessportster Posted July 24, 2014 Share Posted July 24, 2014 I would think you are stressing the glue joints when you cut the reliefs and then bow the panel. There is a reason ALL speaker manufacturers use ply. even the super expensive speakers that sell the finish over the sound use ply Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schu Posted July 24, 2014 Share Posted July 24, 2014 Don't reinvent the wheel... high quality ply with veneer. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arash Posted July 24, 2014 Author Share Posted July 24, 2014 thanks for all inputs. so I'm going in with some BB plywoods. I should also build a big vacuum bag and try my skills on veneering. I'll use baked and sanded (flat?) veneers. they seems to be a better choice. I don't think there is a problem in apply veneer on the playwood even the curve walls but I doubt I can trim it well after the vacuum process. I may use a router to trim the edges. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted July 24, 2014 Share Posted July 24, 2014 I may use a router to trim the edges. You can use a small trim router or even a razor knife, depending on how thin the veneer is.I don't know if you have Dremel tools in Iran, but you can get a flush cut router bit for them. Dremels are small handheld power tools for small work. A lot of people use them for wood carving, but there are lots of attachments available for them. Bruce 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arash Posted July 24, 2014 Author Share Posted July 24, 2014 yes I have a DREMEL 4000-4 and also a Black and Decker mini-router and a full-size Dewalt router. I'm thinking to sand the edge of the veneer till the extra lead is cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted July 24, 2014 Share Posted July 24, 2014 I'm thinking to sand the edge of the veneer till the extra lead is cut. I left that out. That will work too. Keep up the good work and post pictures as you progress. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Full Range Posted July 24, 2014 Share Posted July 24, 2014 thanks for all inputs. so I'm going in with some BB plywoods. I should also build a big vacuum bag and try my skills on veneering. I'll use baked and sanded (flat?) veneers. they seems to be a better choice. I don't think there is a problem in apply veneer on the playwood even the curve walls but I doubt I can trim it well after the vacuum process. I may use a router to trim the edges. Very good Arash The better you prepare the ply finish under the veneer the better the finish will be on the surface Also be careful with glue ripples underneath the veneer as it will show on the surface You may also consider pre glued veneer - this has heat activated glue and can make the job easier I am sure glue formulas have come a long way and this type of product may prove to be superior I recommend that you do some research 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muel Posted July 25, 2014 Share Posted July 25, 2014 yes I have a DREMEL 4000-4 and also a Black and Decker mini-router and a full-size Dewalt router. I'm thinking to sand the edge of the veneer till the extra lead is cut. Be sure to sand into the perpendicular surface and not away (which would lift up on the veneer edge). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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